Re: Window Motor
Many times the plastic dogs inside the motor disintegrate causing the problems. The motor comes out without too much trouble as Roy pointed out. The dogs are available in th HELP! section at most parts places. Other folks have used 5/16" nuts in lieu of the dogs. As far as the door lock actuator, you have to drill out the large rivet in the lower rear edge of the door and unhook the rod (not really that bad). Check to make sure that the rod that goes to the actual lock pull on the door is not binding (sometime they are tie-wrapped to the inner door sheetmetal). When I replaced my actuator, I bought a factory Ford actuator from anther vehicle and switched the rod from my old actuator (the motor part of the actuator was the same in both). Cheers!
97 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed
SOLD: 94 F350 CC DRW PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, 3” DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer O/H Console, Trans Temp, Boost, and Pyro, Pedestal Mod, Gutted EBPV