OBS Pedestal O-Rings - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2009, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Next week I plan to change these out, and replace my up-pipe donuts at the same time. Any specific tricks for this? Do you need two of each O-ring? I copied these numbers before from another site:
(International) 1815560C1 Turbo to pedistal O-ring .421 x .560
(International) 1815561C1 Turbo to pedistal O-ring .769 x .908

Are they still current?

I have seen some posts that you need two of each O-ring, but then I saw another write-up (for a SD though, not an OBS) that said there were yellow O-rings below the pedestal and black ones above.

I get a slow and intermittent leak from the pedestal, but I figured that since the up-pipe started leaking I should do everything at once.

Regards,
Michael Pliska

95 F350 CC DRW, ISSPRO Performax gauges, Diamond Eye 3x4" DP & 5" exh, MBRP tip, Baby Swamps & tunes, Trans VB mods, Dunrite TC, Lock-Right, Cal-Tracs
99 Silverado race truck
96 F250 RCLB, bone stock
00 Jetta TDI, Kerma Tunes, Der Chimera Stg 3 clutch
73 & 74 Vega race cars, 92 GMC Typhoon, 73 Chevy Blazer with Pontiac 400, 73 Trans-Am 455
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2009, 01:06 AM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Michael you need 2 each on the o rings. I got mine from Ford and they came 2 to a package. They were only a couple bucks per package and both sizes were yellow. Or to be more correct they were black with a yellow coating. My original ones were like this too.

On the donuts only real handy thing is the ability to create new words as you wrestle with those #$^@% bolts!

97 Green F-350 XLT 7.3L PSD 4x4 CC LB BTS E40D Manual Hubs 4.10 36000 miles when purchased 4/1/06. Mods - ISSPRO Performax gauges, Tymar intake, Tymar 3x4 DP to 4" ss exhaust, electric fuel, CCV mod, 6.0 fan, tru-cool 4739, Swamps 175/30% injectors, stage I Stealth pump, LASB turbo, Spearco 6.0 cac, live tuned 442hp/860tq.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2009, 01:07 AM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael View Post
Next week I plan to change these out, and replace my up-pipe donuts at the same time. Any specific tricks for this? Do you need two of each O-ring? I copied these numbers before from another site:
(International) 1815560C1 Turbo to pedistal O-ring .421 x .560
(International) 1815561C1 Turbo to pedistal O-ring .769 x .908

Are they still current?

I have seen some posts that you need two of each O-ring, but then I saw another write-up (for a SD though, not an OBS) that said there were yellow O-rings below the pedestal and black ones above.

I get a slow and intermittent leak from the pedestal, but I figured that since the up-pipe started leaking I should do everything at once.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
Michael, it will take one large and one small oring under the turbo and the same under the pedistal. I have quite a few spare ones here. If you would like me to mail you two sets of them just PM your address. I can mail them to you tomorrow. You have certainly helped me in the past. The yellow vs black is not a big deal as the Ford ones usually have a yellow coating on them is all. The IH and Garrett ones do not. There is a part list here on this site in the library section that has the most up to date part numbers I have.

Tom

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2009, 04:59 AM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Also be prepared to replace the uppipe if its been leaking for awhile. The exhaust leak will erode the pipe and the new donut will not seal it. It doesn't hurt to have a set of metric swivel-sockets for the job. Cheers!

97 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, Ext Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-03-2009, 05:35 PM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

I forgot to mention this earlier. When I put new donuts in last yr I took the flanges, put em in my lathe and took about 1/8 off the thickness. I read about a couple others who did this with good results. It lets the donuts get crushed real tight for a good seal. No issues so far.

97 Green F-350 XLT 7.3L PSD 4x4 CC LB BTS E40D Manual Hubs 4.10 36000 miles when purchased 4/1/06. Mods - ISSPRO Performax gauges, Tymar intake, Tymar 3x4 DP to 4" ss exhaust, electric fuel, CCV mod, 6.0 fan, tru-cool 4739, Swamps 175/30% injectors, stage I Stealth pump, LASB turbo, Spearco 6.0 cac, live tuned 442hp/860tq.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 04:27 AM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Does anyone have a saved link to the R and R write up. Swamps maybe?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 04:32 AM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peroni View Post
I forgot to mention this earlier. When I put new donuts in last yr I took the flanges, put em in my lathe and took about 1/8 off the thickness. I read about a couple others who did this with good results. It lets the donuts get crushed real tight for a good seal. No issues so far.
Me I used a 4inch grinder with a tiger disk to surface them alittle. It don't take much to put the squeeze on them if the pipes are in good shape.

97 crew cab shorty-4x4 Lots of mods .
Tuned by T Wildman
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

Thanks everyone for the tips. Unfortunately I haven't gotten the dang things off yet. I ended up driving my diesel Jetta to the NHRDA nationals in Billings, MT instead of my F350, after struggling with the truck until the last minute.


I'm having a heck of a time with the last two bolts:
1) The driver's side up-pipe to "collector" bolt on the rear. I can barely get on it with a 3/8" drive swivel socket (the kind with the integral u-joint), but already broke one Craftsman socket on it. I have an idea for this one - I'm going to make an offset "box end crow's foot" wrench. I made one for the 15mm nuts from the turbo flange to the collector, and it worked great.

2) The driver's side rear bolt from the pedestal to the block, the one down by the EBP solenoid. I could only fit a 1/4" drive swivel socket down there, and it is not breaking loose. Is there any trick to getting to that bolt? Is there something I can remove to get better access?

The up-pipe flanges you guys are talking about surfacing - do the flanges come completely off the pipes to do this? Is it easy to completely remove the pipes once you have gotten them loose at the top? I may try to pull the passenger's side all the way out, see if it gives me more working room on the last stuck bolts.

The local Sears is starting to look at me funny when I bring all these broken tools in for replacement.

Thanks,
Michael Pliska

95 F350 CC DRW, ISSPRO Performax gauges, Diamond Eye 3x4" DP & 5" exh, MBRP tip, Baby Swamps & tunes, Trans VB mods, Dunrite TC, Lock-Right, Cal-Tracs
99 Silverado race truck
96 F250 RCLB, bone stock
00 Jetta TDI, Kerma Tunes, Der Chimera Stg 3 clutch
73 & 74 Vega race cars, 92 GMC Typhoon, 73 Chevy Blazer with Pontiac 400, 73 Trans-Am 455
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 05:50 PM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

I think I recal that some guys had to get Snap On sockets to take the torque.

Tom
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 06:05 PM
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Re: OBS Pedestal O-Rings

You are using plenty of penetrating oil right?
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