Those all sound like they would be on the same circut.
96 F-350 CC Dually
300/100% B codes, Stealth dual pumps, H2E, BTS trans, ARP head studs, Comp 910 valve springs, Tyrant Tunes To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
6.0 IC, Fuelab electric fuel pump, NAPA 6637 air filter, ITP Overboost Annihilator, AeroTurbine 4040XL
I know on my obs I had higher wattage head light bulbs that would burn out the switch itself. They were pulling more amps and creating much more heat. the back of the plug was turning to burn brown from grey. As for the Spedo I had the same from the connector on the rear end getting full of mud. took it apart and cleaned it. worked perfect after that.
02 f350 larit, itp rr & pre pump filter, GTP38r, international up pipes, swamps 175/146 single shot's, DP tuner, factory tech valve body & lot of extra lights
Resurrection.... Ok any new guys got some simple schematics or drawings on where wires go from the fuse beyond...please help its throwing off my maintenance and I am sick of it....
I don't see any common pinch points in the circuit. It's a short as it blows the fuse. The circuit is hot all times (ign off). It feeds from the under hood fuse box. Should be 15 amp fuse, 95-96 anyway. Here's whats on the fuse: Courtesy lamps (doors and jab switches) Underhood light, power mirrors, Vanity mirrors(i'm guessing this was an option on the visor mirror--wire from the roof might rub) Speedo memory, warning chime, keyless entry, Dome light (feeds thru head light switch) If the truck is an XLT the rear cargo light on the cab roof is part of the courtesy lamps. I'd look for chafed wires where I could. If none found, I'd disconnect everything on the circuit one by one to find the short. You also could rig a 15 amp circuit breaker and substitue it for the #8 fuse. That will give you more time to run it down as the breaker cycles without damage to the wiring. Hope that helps.