temp question - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 03:43 AM Thread Starter
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temp question

Hi all i just bought a 97 cc sb stroker 5 speed manual. On my way home from picking it up on about a 35 min ride outside temp around 25 degrees f the coolant temp gauge never came into the operating range, never got onto the scale. i got decent heat out of the defroster not sweltering but it defrosted the windshield fine and the cab was ok temp. What could this be? bad sensor? thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 04:10 AM
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Re: temp question

ha ha, this is common with the 7.3, they have extremly efficiant coolant systms, if its cold outside it takes forever to get to operating temp, even when it gets to temp, mine never goes past the o in Normal!

-06 CCLB 6.0, studs, heads reworked, studs, dummy plugs, stand pipe, updated stc fitting, egr delete, 6.4 banjos, blue spring, New oil cooler, 40 FICM, stage 1 powermax, and Looney Wild, 4 inch exhaust
SOLD-1996 f250 4x4, ZF5 with BASB and 175/100s
-2002 F250 4x4, auto, ECLB, CAI, CCV mod, Dp-Tuner, air heater delete, 4"dp, billet 38R
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: temp question

ok thanks so i guess just wait for warmer weather. lol
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 04:45 AM
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Re: temp question

Put some cardboard over the grill like the big rigs! You can also get a 203* T-stat. Yours is most likely a 195*, some people swear by the 203*, ive got a 195* in mine, if it goes out i might give the 203* a try... Just do a search on here for the 203*

-06 CCLB 6.0, studs, heads reworked, studs, dummy plugs, stand pipe, updated stc fitting, egr delete, 6.4 banjos, blue spring, New oil cooler, 40 FICM, stage 1 powermax, and Looney Wild, 4 inch exhaust
SOLD-1996 f250 4x4, ZF5 with BASB and 175/100s
-2002 F250 4x4, auto, ECLB, CAI, CCV mod, Dp-Tuner, air heater delete, 4"dp, billet 38R
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 12:58 PM
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Re: temp question

Mine never takes more than 10 minutes of driving to warm up and start registering on the gauge, even in 30 degree weather. I have a real gauge as well, so I know how hot I'm actually running. I also run the 205* thermostat.

I'm going to bet you have a bad thermostat. When I bought my truck, the thermostat in it had fallen completely apart and the truck never got above 100 degrees.

1994.5 F350 Dually Crew Cab
7.3 PSD, 220k miles, ZF5 2wd, 3.55 LS
Current mods: T500, Rosewood 160/30's, Hydro-boost, 120v IDM, 6637 Intake
Mods in the works: TS-6 chip, Inter-cooler, 3" intake plenums, GTP38r, MarkFuga E-fuel

... also waiting on some free time and a few final parts for my Dana 60 straight axle swap.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 04:41 PM
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Re: temp question

The thermostat is easy to get to and check or replace. Mine was some german brand I can't remember, and had small holes around the outside with what was supposed to be rubber covering them, the rubber had deteriorated and fallen off, and the t-stat was letting coolant through. Also, I was able to push the thing open with my finger... which is too loose.

I went to the parts store and got a replacement "Stant" brand, factory 195 degree temp... now my truck runs with the temp gauge between the "N" and the "O" in 'NORMAL' after it warms up. Before, the old t-stat was stuck open (or at least letting enough coolant through to never warm the truck up), I had the same problem you do... it didn't register at all on the gauge.

Yes, the truck has an efficient cooling system, but it should still heat up to "normal" operating temp after 35 minutes of driving... otherwise you're not operating efficiently, making less power, and your heater/defroster isn't going to work as well. Cardboard in front of the radiator is not an appropriate fix for a bad thermostat.

Some on here will probably say I committed a travesty in putting a Stant thermostat in, and that I should have put a motorcraft or special 203 degree thermostat in. All I can say is... the Stant was 9 bucks and works fine for me. The motorcraft (dealership) t-stat and the 203 degree stat you can order from various sites are both $30 plus. Your choice, they will all fix your problem. Make sure to put a new o-ring gasket in with the new stat, and inspect your water neck really well for corrosion or rust and replace or clean well and repaint if necessary.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: temp question

thanks i will be throwing in a new t stat this weekend.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 02:09 AM
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Re: temp question

Yes, most guys use the 203F stat, but the low reading on the gauge is the gauge sweep diesel calibration. If you compare the diesel gauge with a gasser gauge, the gasser gauge sweep is much faster and it goes up to halfway at operating temp (or over if its really warm). I learned this when I replaced the oil press gauge from a gasser cluster and noticed that the gasser temp gauge does not have the same resistor in the back.

Dont know why the gauges are different, but it was an interesting discovery. Perhaps Ford was concerned with guys thinking that the motor was getting too hot if it ran over halfway. Not sure...

2000 F250 CCSB-- GT4294R, 250/100s, Dahl/Fuelab, PHP, scan gauge, stock 17* pump

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: temp question

This site is a wealth of information thanks to every one for the info.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2013, 03:13 AM
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Re: temp question

The thermostat used depends on what year truck you have, some can use the Stant high temp thermostat and others have to buy DieselSites 203* thermostat if you want higher temps. I use DieselSite's 203* in my 97 and the temp guage reads right on the R in Normal (straight up). Heater and defroster work better with the higher temp thermostat.
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