Hub replacement - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Hub replacement

Looking to put some new warn hubs on my powerstroke 250. Has TTB. I am assuming that i need the heavy duty hubs/ 30 spline but just looking for confirmation before i order new ones. Any links for a good place to buy some would be helpful.

Thanks
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 12:25 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

You need the 30 spline hubs. If you have auto locking hubs you will also need the install kit which is made up of new bearing retaining nuts.

'97 SCLB 4x4, 3.55, D60 w/ TrueTrac, 6637, Banks Techni-cooler, BTS Trans, Tru-Cool 4921 Trans Cooler, 1.0 exhaust housing, no ebv, 3" DP, Straight Exhaust, E-Fuel, TW tunes, International WP, 203*, Isspro Gauges
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 02:32 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

broncograveyard.com has them for about $240/set

2000 F250 CCSB-- GT4294R, 250/100s, Dahl/Fuelab, PHP, scan gauge, stock 17* pump

1994 F250 4x4 SC (sold)
1997 F250 CCSB 2wd (sold)
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 03:21 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

I paid $80 for a set of Milemarker manual hubs and $54 for the conversion "kit", back in March, 2011. It is the 30 spline.

You will also need the socket to remove the auto hub AND a socket to install the manual hub. Both will cost you about $20-25 each.

I have the auto socket that I may as well sell. Don't need it any more.

PM if you want.

~DR

97 F250HD (Cal. model) Auto, Ext. Cab XLT, 4x4, long bed
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 03:02 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

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Originally Posted by Desert Rancher View Post
You will also need the socket to remove the auto hub AND a socket to install the manual hub. Both will cost you about $20-25 each.
There's no need for the socket that holds the auto hub spindle nut on. It's not very tight to begin with from the factory and a punch and hammer loosens it quite easily. It's not like you care really whether it's damaged since that spindle nut isn't used with the manuals. Mine took a couple of light taps and then it was removable by hand.


Those "kits" with the spindle nuts are a rip off. You're paying someone to put the same parts you can get at NAPA into a package for you.

Ask for the spindle nuts and lock washer for a F350 with a Dana 60 and you get the same exact Spicer parts that the kits have.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 03:27 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

The D60 and TTB50 use the exact same hubs and exact same nut kit.... I will say that WARNS are the best way to go...Never had a problem with them. The mile markers on two of our fleet trucks need pliers to turn the hub they are so damn stiff... I hate them in the middle of the winter....

Any autoparts store has the hub nut socket....In order to properly torque the new nut setup down you need it///and in order to ever take your hub off you need it....so why not get it? After dicking around with a screwdriver and hammer for a half hour you wish you got it. .2 seconds with an impact gun... :)

96 F250 CCSB, D60 SAS, 460, E40D, 3:55's, D-Thorleys
Sold the supercharged 547, 12V cummins twin swap in process
97 SCLB 7.3 PSD ZF5, 4:10'S, DP tuner, 6637, 4" Straight, EBPV delete, CCV delete, 3" plenums w 6.0 IC/ Rosewood stage 1's/waterinjection/ T500 ARPs, springs, rods and a 366 in process
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 05:33 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

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Originally Posted by nossliw View Post
Any autoparts store has the hub nut socket....In order to properly torque the new nut setup down you need it///and in order to ever take your hub off you need it....so why not get it? After dicking around with a screwdriver and hammer for a half hour you wish you got it. .2 seconds with an impact gun... :)
Nobody said anything about not getting the socket for the new spindle nuts. I said there's no need for the socket for the spindle nut that is used with the auto hubs, which will never be used again once you convert to manuals.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 06:14 PM
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Smile Re: Hub replacement

:-) no worries wasn't trying to stir any thing up...first time I ever took apart a d60 when I was 15 I will never forget how much that nut pissed me off when all I had was a hammer and screwdriver, and sockets not even close enough in size.... Then I got that socket and was happy :-)

I have used it on multiple axles over the years and glad I never got rid of it.

96 F250 CCSB, D60 SAS, 460, E40D, 3:55's, D-Thorleys
Sold the supercharged 547, 12V cummins twin swap in process
97 SCLB 7.3 PSD ZF5, 4:10'S, DP tuner, 6637, 4" Straight, EBPV delete, CCV delete, 3" plenums w 6.0 IC/ Rosewood stage 1's/waterinjection/ T500 ARPs, springs, rods and a 366 in process
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 06:44 PM
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Re: Hub replacement

While on the topic of the socket, what size does a guy need?
The nuts on the P/S are a MF to get off as someone damaged the threads at one time just enough that there is a tight spot every rotation that needs to be tapped with a punch to get past.

'07 Duramax
'97 Powerstroke
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 08:45 PM
csp
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Re: Hub replacement

They really aren't sold by a size. It's a round socket with four prongs in it that fit on the spindle nut. You just need the socket that fits any Dana 60 spindle nut (F350 or Chevy 1-ton).
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