D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

Howdy everyone, I just got done with a big project on my truck a few weeks ago and thought Id post about it here to help others who might be interested in doing the same thing.

I finally redid the entire suspension front and rear. I went with Precision Metal Fab's 3.5" reverse shackle kit with drop track bar bracket and adjustible track bar. I sourced some V code superduty springs for the front and F springs for the rear with 4" blocks to add to my 2.5" bumpstop blocks. The truck rides great. I sourced a complete front Dana 60 from a 1993 F350 for $500. Its not as good as a kingpin, but it was cheap and I aint that picky.
My truck already had 35s and a 4 or 6" lift that the previous owner had just installed so I didnt have to get new shocks. I had to get a new drop pitman arm because the one that was on it had a couple teeth stripped. I sourced the new one from 4 wheel parts for like 70 bucks.

Removal of the old axle was pretty straight forward. Remove everything from the frame down basically. Once its all out you can install the reverse shackle kit. Trevor's kit is a perfect spot on fit. I actually had to position the front hangers and use a jack to lift them into place. It was a snug fit. I will start posting pictures and fill in any details along the way.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #2 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

Removal of the old axle. Basically remove everything from the frame down.




The bolts on the cross member under the oil pan had to be cut shorter to be removed from what I could tell. This is my buddy who helped me out with the install. It defintately requires two people at certain times, and he was a HUGE help.




This is the one bolt hole that I had clearance issues with. I started to drill out the frame, but decided that with three other humongous bolts holding this in already, it wasnt really needed. Trevor slotted his hole to fit varying years of trucks because ford moved their hold around a bit. The origional hole in the frame you can see and it is a slotted hole that progressed horizontally toward the front of the frame. Trevors hole catches the rear part of Fords hole. When I spoke to Trevor about it, he said he is thinking about not drilling this hole entirely, but some people still might like to use it. His front hanger actually is in the shape of a U with ony the top part being open. It cups the frame. So in all actuality until you get to really articulating the suspension the huge bolts only hold the hanger for horizontal movement, if that makes sense. This is the outside of the passenger framerail.




Here are the optional 1/2" front holes if you need intercooler clearance. I dont have an intercooler nor have plans for one in the near future, so I went with the supplied hardware. Later down the road Ill probably have to use these to fit an intercooler in. This is passenger side, inside of frame rail.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #3 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

Here are a couple pics of the big bolts that hold the front hanger in place on the inside of the frame rails.

passenger side


Drivers side


Drivers side outside.


Here is the shackle now installed in the rear hanger. They fit in the stock rear hanger. This made it really nice compared to sky's kit. Sky's kit you have to remove the stock hanger here and install a new one. PMF's kit you just bolt in and move on.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #4 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

I decided to use the shock perchs from my existing lift rather then buy new ones. We had to cut a tab off to clear the pumpkin. I added a photo of the passenger side so you can see what tab we cut off. For someone with a torch or plasma cutter this would have been cake. But for other with, say, a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and a auto parts store special air compressor that couldnt keep up it was a nightmare. It took forever to cut this tab off.





The new dana 60 has the v code springs mounted and is ready to be stuffed underneath. Just needing to get front leaf spring bolts.







Sourcing these front leaf spring bolts has been a nightmare. Long story. The rear leaf spring bolts I used grade 8 hardware. The fronts are metric, 18mm and are very hard to find that will be long enough, which is roughly 6". I tried, True Value hardware, Napa, Home Depot, and even called Copperstate. Nothing. Cant really drill out the spring bushing because the metal tube will want to catch on the drill and spin inside the bushing, and using the next size smaller isnt a good idea because it will allow too much play. So Im having to get them from Ford. Ouch. They wernt cheap. Like 40 bucks I think for the two bolts and two nuts.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #5 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

The rear went pretty easy for the most part. I reused the stock OBS bolts in the front of the rear leaf springs because they were a good fit and still in decent shape. I sourced the rear leaf springs from a 2006 F350. They are the non overload spring option which in simple terms, an F code. For the clearance between the rear schackle and spring you have to either cut off the end of the second leaf spring from the top or clearance the shackle because they will conflict with each other. I chose to clearance the shackle becase its way easier to work with.

A picture couple pictures would help with visualization.


Here are my old shackles and new clearanced shackles




Installed. I could have gotten away with not doing near as much clearanceing then I did, and I would suggest this to others. I cut off an inch of the webbing, seeing it installed, I figure I would have been better to only cleance a half inch, but for some reason in mock up it looked like I needed alot more. The schackles are still pretty strong even with as much as I clearanced out.




I bought new schackles from the dealer, they were roughly 80 bucks for the pair. The reason I bought new shackles is the bushings in my old ones were almost shot. I bought replacement bushings from napa but they are encased in a steel tube and the tube doesnt fit where it needs to go. I thought maybe the tube was there to help in pressing the bushing into the shackle but the bushing didnt want to slide out of the tube even when being convinced to with a press. DONT BUY THE NAPA BUSHINGS. I called ford and was able to source brand new shackles for like 38 bucks each with a discount so they werent outrageous. I also had to source the rear leaf spring rear bolts from ford and the bolts and nuts were roughly 18 bucks all total. I had to buy an 11/64 drill bit and drill out the shackle to accomodate the bigger SD bolt. Then its pretty easy to reinstall the shackle on the leaf spring then install the leaf spring on the truck. I had to stack the stock 2" bumpstop block on a "stock" 4" F350 block to get enough lift in the rear to be right about level, maybe just a scoche higher in the rear then the front. I got new U bolts for the rear axle and they were about $60 for the four U bolts or about $15 each.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #6 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

And now for some before/after phots of my project. My truck looks a lighter color because of the different lighting.


Before





After












before.





after on the same exact mound. Notice how there is less "lift" in the center of the truck due to the more flexible front suspension. Also notice how the tire is suffed more up into the wheel well.


Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #7 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:35 PM
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

I am glad you posted this up. I enjoyed that thread on the AZ site a lot! I will put this in the library with the other RSK articles.

1996 F250 Powerstroke 4X4 AUTO
DP-Tuner F-6 chip live tuned, BTS Transmission, Garrett 38R Turbo, Swamps Injectors 150cc, electric fuel,
Banks Intercooler, Reflexxions Cowl Hood, 17 degree HPOP, 4" Stainless Magnaflow &
Aeroturbine exhaust, Aeroforce OBD Scan Gauge, Truxedo tonneau cover
Dana 60 Precision Metal Fab RSK and SD Springs
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post #8 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

Ahhhhh. Its so nice to have the front suspension actually compress and flex a little bit.






I took it out wheeling the other day and finally had it flexed to the max. It did pretty good for what it is. The attached pic tells the tale. I wish someone was there to take a pic of me standing next to it because the pic doesnt do justice. Im almost 6 foot tall. The bottom of the cab by the drivers door was waist high, so roughly 36" off the ground.


With the little issues I ran into, it took me 4 days. Even if you can get it to go completely smooth, I would plan for at least 3 days. It just takes longer than you might expect. It was definately worth the effort though. It drives smooth down rougher dirt roads and my kidney's are thanking me.

Oh while im thinking about it, I guess I can discuss what I know about the difference between F code leaf springs and the B code that everyone suggests to use for the rear. First of all, I went with the F codes because I was able to source them dirt cheap locally from a friend and Im kinda glad I wound up with F codes in a way. I explain why. From my memory from research I did, I found that the differences was weight rating. The B codes are rated for a higher weight, and flex a bit more than the F codes. Under the same weight, your truck will sag more in the rear with the B codes. I like how my F codes dont sag as much. I never tow, and dont even haul alot so I didnt really matter to me. But it is nice that when I do happen to load up the bed, or tow a bumper pull trailer my headlights wont be pointed toward the sky. Now if you plan to tow heavy alot or the flex really matters to you, by all means take your time and get the B codes. I was in a hurry to get this project done because I was starting a new job that would require me to drive over 100 miles a day. I really like how it turned out though.


As good as a kit that PMF makes I saw one downfall, and it was not in fabrication. The powdercoat didnt hold up very long. It was already chipping off around the edges of parts by the time it was all installed. I havent messed with many powdercoated parts, maybe its normal, but I wouldnt think so. That was the only thing I didnt like. Other than that, fitment was perfect, and the parts were really well made and BEEFY!! He also supplied ALOT of grade 8 hardware and that stuff isnt cheap. I also loved how it was all directly bolt in. No fabrication other than drilling out one hole.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg flexing.jpg (85.3 KB, 161 views)

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #9 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom S View Post
I am glad you posted this up. I enjoyed that thread on the AZ site a lot! I will put this in the library with the other RSK articles.
Thanks! I figured it would help out alot more people if I posted it on a nationwide site. It just took me a while to find a day where I could spare a few minutes and post it.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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post #10 of 70 (permalink) Old 09-22-2012, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: D60 w/PMF 3.5" RS kit V and F code swap

here my final alignment paper for anyone who is interested.



here is one end of the adjustible track bar


the other end


the track bar and track bar bracket installed.

Jason
1997 F250 7.3L CCSB, DP tuner: drive thru, 60 tow, 80e, 120, 140, Beans tymar, DP to 4" open exhaust, hughes perf tranny with deep pan, 1.0 turbo housing, gutted EBPV, new uppipes!, PMF 3.5" RSK, V and F code SD springs, 35x12.50 toyo open country m/t's on 18x10 raceline renegades, HID's, 7200# full of fuel with big tires
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