OK, first of all thanks for all the replies and offers to assist!!! Sounds like I am experiencing an issue some of you have already survived, THANK YOU for sharing your fixes to!
This is not an excuse for not posting sooner, but, yes, as someone posted, I did drive non-stop to get home while it was runnning!!!! Ran a few test in the shop and was beat, then had to run the oldest boy to Youth Group, then had to get to bed as I had to be at work this morning!
So, I did get the truck started Monday morning after a few tries and towed the trailer home without issue... no power either as I had pulled the chip! Something had definitely drained down as it ran choppy and had no throttle response for about 20-30 seconds of running.
After getting the trailer home, parked, and the truck into the shop I shut it down and... with minimal cranking it fired right up, three times. Go figure! Didn't try a fourth time as it seemed to be starting every time, though with a longer crank time than before.
Interestingly, after the truck idled about 15 minutes at the RV dumpsite closest to home, I believe some type of bleed down also occurred as the motor had a noticeable miss as boost came up as I accelerated back onto the freeway.
I let it sit a few hours, and with the EASE scanner recording I turned the key and after a short crank it fired right up. Repeated this a few more times and gave up on it doing the no-start thing again. While I was wanting to see if the HPO pressure was under 500 psi
when I experienced a no-start, the truck wouldn't no-start!
Playback of the ICP
and duty cycle showed that with the ignition on, the duty-cycle defaulted to 14%, when cranking the HPO quickly climbed and the motor started up. HPO shot up over 1,000 psi
and settled back down to about 570-600 psi
and duty cycle went up to about 45-50% before it settled down to 12-13%.
Worth noting again is that this truck normally starts after only a second or so of cranking, never had remotely extended cranking like it seems to now.
I believe that with hot oil and a heat soaked motor, my no start was probably from inadequate HPO to tell the PCM
to activate the injectors as some suggested. Wish I could replicate the symptom with the scanner recording?
I will attempt to assemble a pressure tester as outlined by Kim lux to see if I can find a bank that is dropping oil pressure.
I am semi-focused on a bad o-ring. When I first installed my 130c injectors I discovered a cut o-ring and replaced it before continuing. Unfortunately I had several other injectors already in. Assuming it was a fluke I just replaced the one, but later heard some talk about the possibility of a bad batch of o-rings going out the major rebuilders...
I hope to pinpoint a cylinder or bank of cylinders before the 8 sets of O-rings I ordered arrive. Hate to go through a whole o-ring swap if it isn't the issue!
Thanks to all who replied or at least looked at my original post to see if they could help! Sorry for the ramble but I wanted to at least finish the story for those who offered me help!
97 F350 CC
LB 4x4, ZF-5, LUK, Off-Road. Factory Alcoas, Michelin LTX-M/S LT265/75-16, Bilsteins. Homegrown intake, 4" exhaust, LUK clutch, 130cc injectors, 99+ intercooler, homegrown CCV mod, homegrown electric fuel system, still sorting out tuning/chip burns.
27' Travel Trailer, Prodigy brake controller.
1991 5.0 LX
- Best 1/4: [email protected]
1989 Taurus SW
(To be like Tom S!)
Link to my Intercooler/Fuel System Install page - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.