Oil rail plug tricks - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Oil rail plug tricks

Does anyone have any tricks to getting the plugs out, due to tight quarters? What about draining the rail?

97 F-250 Extended Cab 4x4 Powerstroke, Handshaker, FPR Shim mod, straight pipe.

06 Dodge Dually Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins, Goerend 48re, J and I flatbed, BD Triple Dog, Autometer Trans, Boost, Pyro,
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 02:26 PM
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Re: Oil rail plug tricks

Well when I changed my front ones I took off all the surrounding boltons to get to them.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 04:56 PM
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Re: Oil rail plug tricks

Are you referring to the large threaded plugs on the front & back? If so, they used high strength locktite on the threads.

I used a small propane torch to heat the area (not too much), which loosens the locktite and it worked well. The one on the back right side is tough to get to.

The new plugs have a new style seal.

97 F250HD (Cal. model) Auto, Ext. Cab XLT, 4x4, long bed
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 05:00 PM
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Re: Oil rail plug tricks

I assume your talking about the small allen plugs in the heads...

Never removed them. When I do injectors I pull the back two injectors (7-8) and wait for about 30 seconds. Then I pull the rest of the injectors and the glow plugs. Clean out the cups, lube the new injectors, throw them in and TQ to spec. Check for flat across them and throw the VC on with one or two bolts.

Then bump the motor over a few times, then crank for about 10 seconds. Remove VC, Install GP, button up and go on.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 06:15 PM
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Re: Oil rail plug tricks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Rancher View Post
Are you referring to the large threaded plugs on the front & back? If so, they used high strength locktite on the threads.

I used a small propane torch to heat the area (not too much), which loosens the locktite and it worked well. The one on the back right side is tough to get to.

The new plugs have a new style seal.
Yeah cuz the old style ones leaked. Got mine replaced. just the front though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
I assume your talking about the small allen plugs in the heads...
Never removed them. When I do injectors I pull the back two injectors (7-8) and wait for about 30 seconds. Then I pull the rest of the injectors and the glow plugs. Clean out the cups, lube the new injectors, throw them in and TQ to spec. Check for flat across them and throw the VC on with one or two bolts.

Then bump the motor over a few times, then crank for about 10 seconds. Remove VC, Install GP, button up and go on.
ITs the BIG plugs on each end of the HPO rail. Factory o rings are terrible there and oozed oil out all over the motor and anything surrounding: susp., wheels, front end, frame, ect.

The OP didnt specify that he was doing injectors. But the way you just explained is the perfect way to do it. lol.

-Jordan-
97 SCLB 7.3 Handshaker
Valair Clutch, only the best.
TS 6 Position Tyrant Tuning
S&B, MBRP, Isspro, Mag-Hytec, 1.00 A/R Exhaust housing, HPX
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Oil rail plug tricks

The big ones on the ends, got them done. Not as bad as I thought it would be

97 F-250 Extended Cab 4x4 Powerstroke, Handshaker, FPR Shim mod, straight pipe.

06 Dodge Dually Quad Cab 4x4 Cummins, Goerend 48re, J and I flatbed, BD Triple Dog, Autometer Trans, Boost, Pyro,
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-09-2011, 12:00 PM
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Re: Oil rail plug tricks

Yeah they ain't bad. Good thing you got em done before one of em leaked everywhere.

-Jordan-
97 SCLB 7.3 Handshaker
Valair Clutch, only the best.
TS 6 Position Tyrant Tuning
S&B, MBRP, Isspro, Mag-Hytec, 1.00 A/R Exhaust housing, HPX
Full sound system: Kicker-Kenwood
BILLET BADGES
Dick Cepek DC-2's/Duratracs
On-Board Air
Few cosmetics
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