Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Washington State
You don't have to do the entire panel, but you do have to feather the repair into a large area or it will be PAINFULLY obvious where you made the repair. It takes the same amount of time and effort to make the repair properly as it does to just goop more clear onto the bad spot.
There isn't any bodywork that needs to be done here unless you have a dent where the clear start peeling off? So sand the bad spot and feather the edges of the clear where it flaked off. Then scuff enough of the panel so that the new clear and be sprayed and worked into the existing clear. After the last coat of new clear goes on let it set and cure for several hours/overnight depending on the temp. Then wet sand the entire repaired area with around 5000 grit with plenty of water.
Then you need to buff the clear back to a shinney clear state. Use a foam bonnet and start with some medium cut, fine cut, swirl removed and then wax it. All of that stuff can be had at your local NAPA store. I'd go to the autobody supply house and buy good stuff tho. Takes about 2-3 hours depending on the temperature and prep time. The biggest thing is do ALL the prep work no short cuts. Absolutely imperative to get all the wax/silicone/grease off the panel. Not really any big deal.
TAG II, Exhaust Air Guide, K&N FIPK, Hood insulation delete, foil delete, SX and A1000 pumps, door dinger delete, COMPOUND trans coolers and a Banks Stinger+++ with the Banks TransCommand and Chrome curb Feelers.
248.9HP 4ft/lbs @ 3,400 RPM (don't forget to divide by 1,002 and carry the 5).
Nothing worse than a good idea that doesn't work.