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Max HP on stock fuel bowl?

12K views 34 replies 15 participants last post by  V-Ref 
#1 ·
So like the title states....max HP level that the factory fuel bowl/filter assy could satisfy Post Pump Filtration Requirements....on a Daily Driver application. Assume a pre-pump filter/water separator and a fuel pump that can provide the appropriate pressure/volume for a given HP level(fuel lab pump, air dog, etc). In other words..if using the factory fuel bowl/filter for post pump filtration what HP level does it support, and why? Replacement interval?

Thanks in advance for your answers/responses. If this is a newbie question that's covered in a sticky...keep me straight, and point me to the thread...a search didn't reveal an answer my question.
 
#2 ·
I dynoed 468hp and 970ft lbs with my stock bowl 2 weeks ago.
 
#7 ·
Congrats! And thanks!
 
#4 ·
Ive done 600+ with stock bowl. Pre filter is fuel lab and a AD150. Fuel pressure dropped less then 2 psi. I usually replace the filter around every 10Kmi.
 
#5 ·
Just the kind of reply I was after. Thanks.

Keep 'em coming.
 
#6 ·
Two stock pumps will support well over 485.
Tank mods such as a new pickup is good.

And ten k is a good filter change interval.
 
#8 ·
Southmike....For a couple months of the year up here, I like the idea of keeping this bowl as is...and am contemplating keeping it right where it is, with a RR sys, a pre pump filter/water separator, and appropriate e-pump(s).

Thanks for the opinions/experiences so far.
 
#10 ·
I am getting ready to put a system on my truck that will be similar to this..... Going to do a regulated return off of the stock fuel bowl and use a walbro fuel pump in place of the stock one. Also replacing the feed line from fuel pump to the filter housing and the return to the tank. Planning on using that for now with 250/100 inj. Will eventually upgrade to a full fuel system but this should work till then.
 
#9 ·
I will be running just a walboro pump with the stock fuel bowl as my only filter on my new setup.
 
#11 ·
If you wanted to know my whole system is a 5/8th pickup to the AD150 to the fuel lab up to the stock bowl and then a RR. Since your're in alaska I thought you might be asking for cold weather reference. Around -10 is the coldest ive started my truck but it never gets plugged in and havent had any problems with this system.
 
#13 ·
Yes but what was doing not medicated?


I do not see the fuel bowl as a real point of restriction. When you consider 1/8" ports on the heads. The PU, pump, regulator, and installing an RR makes things better.
 
#14 ·
i read some place around here the bowl will feed 800HP....
 
#15 ·
Reading this thread, two questions come to mind. What kind of fuel press is the stock bowl/cap/orings ect good for? Also what kind of micron rating does the stock filter have? A lot of people seem to favor a 2 micron rated ppf, and a 10 micron pre-pump filter. On the other hand stock will give you a fuel heater if you need it, assuming that's why your keeping the stock fuel bowl. Personally, if you plan to do a regulated return, you wouldnt need the bowl, you should pick up plenty of heat at the heads. Good question you asked, im wondering the same thing.
 
#17 ·
IIRC, the stock fuel bowl is a 7-8 micron rating. The fuel bowl heater is completely and totally useless.

As for fuel pressure, there's no reason to run uber high fuel pressure in the first place. The stock fuel bowl can handle the typical pressures you'll see on these trucks.

That being said, I do believe the stock fuel bowl is a manufactured piece of junk. I've had two of them crack on me... both in the exact same spot along the bottom of the fuel bowl. First one actually leaked, the second one was getting close. So as a result, the fuel bowl is gone for good. Also the filters are also way overpriced for what you get.
 
#21 ·
Hence why you will notice just about EVERYONE gets rid of the fuel bowl when they go to injectors that need more fuel or even a RR. You can do a much better job of filtering and water separation. You can also get better durability.
 
#24 ·
Yep one turn of the drain valve and after closing I had a leaking fuel bowl. Then you get a lid that not flat etc. Constant issues. Compare that to a good spin on. If the head unit is flat than it going to work and work. Not some cheap plastic lid that ends up with rounded off bolt head etc.. You tighten it to much and it leaks tighten it not enough it either leaks or eventually from vibration loosens and leaks.
 
#26 ·
For cost you would only be out $25 and the filter which you would have to buy either way and the messy two extra fittings. with that you would get actualy absotlue 2 mic fitleration post not 5-8 nominal for the stock filter. FYI the popular Baldwin that are rated at 2 mic are nominal meaning 50% first pass they are more like 5 absolute. Still better than stock.

So for $30-$40 you have much better system better flow much longer filter life and 300%+ better filtration. Seems like a better deal to me. Plus no more of the issues weaknesses of the fuel bowl system and more room cleaner looking engine valley area. You will have to drill a couple holes somewhere post pump to mount it but that is simple easy.
 
#27 ·
FWIW Its gotten pretty cold here this year (-30) and my RR never gelled. That being said, my dads pretty much stock 7.3 gelled up a couple times this year. If you mix your fuel right either blend with #1 or a diesel treat you shouldnt have a problem.
Either way, very impressive HP numbers with a stock fuel bowl!
 
#28 ·
The issue is they do not gel at the motor most of the times they gel in the lines and that heater is not gonna do diddly for it. That also negates the use of de-geller in the fuel bowl as that is not where the issue is its in the lines. The bowl has a heater so why would it be the place that would need the de-geller or diesel 911 whatever. If you are really worried about gelling. Put heat tape on the line BTW hose is much better insulated than steel line. Or a t stat controlled heater in the tank. Actually you could put a ac one or convetered to one in there and splice into the engine oil cooler heater power cord. That would allow you to have the fuel and engine oil warmed for start up when you plugged in. I have a dahl 150 and can for a few $ add there heater to it. As its the first in line from the tank it would stop or reverse gelling in the fuel line and any in the tank would be handled as well. Once started the tank should quickly go back to liquid with a RR from the hot return fuel.
 
#34 ·
No I have not, but some of the farm fuel tanks use to have intank heaters. I was thinking of a way you could make it work so you could plug in one line. Would have to actually look at the power requirements. But it would be nice if when you plugged in your heater it did the block/oil /coolant plus the fuel. Maybe its something not really needed expect way up north and then maybe there diesel is treated differntly. I do know looking at fuel tests that people have done of the forums even ones with aftermarket additives to help with gelling it still gelled up but when it warmed it went back to full liquid instead of staying separated. What I do know is having a truck not start when you really need it to sucks.
 
#30 ·
i see no reason to dump a working non leaking fb..
but if you do there are some heated fuel filters ..racor and dahl should have them.
 
#32 ·
20 to 30 bellow 0 is nothing..we see it all the time up here... i been driving truck for over 20 years with no fuel heater (big trucks dont have them) and my PSD for the last 5 years with no bowl or heater..i have only gelled once..it was 40 bellow on the temp and 60 bellow with wind chill and she froze while heading down the road at 65 MPH...a little 911 and i was on my way..my PSD has a nice clean valley with no bowl and i have no place for fuel to leak...
 
#33 ·
Thanks! The bowl must go!
 
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