Rebuild Question- Comp 910's? - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-04-2011, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

I am in the middle of a rebuild. I am adding studs already and I have a 38r coming and 238 hybrids ready to install. I have been reading about the 910's and I think I should add them. Any reason not to with this set up? Or should I be looking at other springs.

REBORN 20 Over on 3/2/11- Pics in gallery- 2000 F250, Auto, 38r, Full Force 238cc/100%, TE 17* hpop, DP F5,HI,60T,80E,120R,140A, Studs and 910's with DI PR's, JW VB in 2nd stock tranny, Walbro 392, Bellowed, In-Tank, Pre-Pump, boost fooler, and RR. Air Dog, SS cover, 6.0 TOC,4" straight piped and guages, 6637, coolant filter, 4" Lift on 33's.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 03:08 AM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

No reason not to, they work well for their price and cant really be beat for $100. Just add some .035"ish shims under them to shim them a little tighter and all should be well. Im running them without shims now and no issues at 40-45psi but just cause i can i will add shims when i pull it apart next to fix my oil leak

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 03:16 AM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

I would do them then also. Mostly because they are cheap and you are building and will have the valve covers off anyway.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 03:20 AM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

90 bucks threw jegs you cant go wrong. Careful though. Can be a pain if motors in the truck still.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 03:24 AM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

910's are fine. With hybrids and the 38r, you don't need to shim them.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 08:17 AM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

You should do them. Nice to get 125 seat pressure up from stock which is 70-75 and that is new. Wonder what it is with a 100K plus on it. Based on Comps spec sheet if you install and shim to spec you will have 125lb seat pressure. Page 3 of 6 the 3rd in from the far right #910

If you have the time and want to do it "the correct way" you should measure each one and use a combo of shims if needed to get them all as close to the same height as possible.

It could take different shim sizes depending on wear. Jegs has a variety pack of harden shims 16 per size 0.015, 0.030, 0.060 Jegs Part #555-20591 That with a valve spring micrometer Jegs # 555-80535 and you can shim them all to the correct height. You will then know what you have. They have a 1.28 max bind height and maybe someone else can given the amount of lift from the stock cam then you could error on the side of slightly lower height and get more seat pressure. Key is you want a safety margin between max bind height and the actual height. IIRC something like 1.685-1.700 I seem to recall. But you NEED to Double check that number from someone that knows for sure. That would put it somewhere around 150lb I think.

I am about to install these this weekend. That is why I have such detailed parts info etc. Been checking everything out for some time now. I am planning on installing @ 1.700" as of right now but we will see when I get in and measure. I certainly have enough shims for it as I ended up with 2 packs of those shim kits.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

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Originally Posted by TARM View Post
You should do them. Nice to get 125 seat pressure up from stock which is 70-75 and that is new. Wonder what it is with a 100K plus on it. Based on Comps spec sheet if you install and shim to spec you will have 125lb seat pressure. Page 3 of 6 the 3rd in from the far right #910

If you have the time and want to do it "the correct way" you should measure each one and use a combo of shims if needed to get them all as close to the same height as possible.

It could take different shim sizes depending on wear. Jegs has a variety pack of harden shims 16 per size 0.015, 0.030, 0.060 Jegs Part #555-20591 That with a valve spring micrometer Jegs # 555-80535 and you can shim them all to the correct height. You will then know what you have. They have a 1.28 max bind height and maybe someone else can given the amount of lift from the stock cam then you could error on the side of slightly lower height and get more seat pressure. Key is you want a safety margin between max bind height and the actual height. IIRC something like 1.685-1.700 I seem to recall. But you NEED to Double check that number from someone that knows for sure. That would put it somewhere around 150lb I think.

I am about to install these this weekend. That is why I have such detailed parts info etc. Been checking everything out for some time now. I am planning on installing @ 1.700" as of right now but we will see when I get in and measure. I certainly have enough shims for it as I ended up with 2 packs of those shim kits.
Thanks for all the info. To shim or not to shim seems to be the issue now.

REBORN 20 Over on 3/2/11- Pics in gallery- 2000 F250, Auto, 38r, Full Force 238cc/100%, TE 17* hpop, DP F5,HI,60T,80E,120R,140A, Studs and 910's with DI PR's, JW VB in 2nd stock tranny, Walbro 392, Bellowed, In-Tank, Pre-Pump, boost fooler, and RR. Air Dog, SS cover, 6.0 TOC,4" straight piped and guages, 6637, coolant filter, 4" Lift on 33's.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 06:36 PM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

I would shim it, you don't have to have it but why not do it

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-05-2011, 09:16 PM
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

To shim or not to shim should not be a question. IMO if you are going to the trouble of installing new ones its mandatory; it only makes sense. Depending on wear you may end up not much better than new stock seat rating. You need to shim to get you back down to at least new spec height. Its not that much money to do it right. Even the micrometer is very inexpensive as it does not need high resolution. $30 for the gauge is peanuts and well worth it to know you are doing it correct. Its very intuitive on how to use it as well. Going forward you will also have another tool in your mechanics kit.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rebuild Question- Comp 910's?

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Originally Posted by TARM View Post
To shim or not to shim should not be a question. IMO if you are going to the trouble of installing new ones its mandatory; it only makes sense. Depending on wear you may end up not much better than new stock seat rating. You need to shim to get you back down to at least new spec height. Its not that much money to do it right. Even the micrometer is very inexpensive as it does not need high resolution. $30 for the gauge is peanuts and well worth it to know you are doing it correct. Its very intuitive on how to use it as well. Going forward you will also have another tool in your mechanics kit.
Good points here. I visited with my motor builder today. He bored the hole with damage to 40 over and it still has a small spot on there so we are going to sleeve that cylinder back to stock and bore them all to 20 over.

We are going to install new valves as well so will that make the shimming easier I am thinking????

REBORN 20 Over on 3/2/11- Pics in gallery- 2000 F250, Auto, 38r, Full Force 238cc/100%, TE 17* hpop, DP F5,HI,60T,80E,120R,140A, Studs and 910's with DI PR's, JW VB in 2nd stock tranny, Walbro 392, Bellowed, In-Tank, Pre-Pump, boost fooler, and RR. Air Dog, SS cover, 6.0 TOC,4" straight piped and guages, 6637, coolant filter, 4" Lift on 33's.
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