To mag or not to mag - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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To mag or not to mag

Ok, I am building a late 99 for hopefully around 550hp, give or take 50hp. I am going with a GT4294(which I posted about a few weeks ago), 250/100's, push rods, 910 springs, arp headstuds, diy fuel system, girdle, and adrenaline Hpop.

What I wanted to know is, my forged rod(I know, stupid comment cause its a 99, of course it has forged rods. Just reassuring the point) has about 130k miles on it. The first 50k stock, the next 40k with an edge juice, and since I've owned it, the last 40k with a ts. With that deal on my truck should I be worried about cracks in the block or weak rods creating the window mod? I don't want to worry about this thing all the time. It has seen 1400* egt once for about 15 seconds that I can ever recall. I know it didn't see more than that with the edge(safety feature) and I have been very diligent about watching my egt's. 95% of its life has been trailerless. What I am worried about is cruddy tuning(programming...whatever). Any thoughts are appreciated. Its good, check it for cracks, I forgot a part to get 550, don't need a part I have listed, whatever. Thanks in advance.

Oh one more thing. I have had an AEM water math inject system on it now for about 5k miles. Most of it has been 10% meth but recently (for world finals in topeka) I put in 35-40% meth.
AGAIN, THANKS!

Chris
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-19-2010, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Oh and in case I am using an incorrect term I meant mag as in magnaflux or inspected.

Chris
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 01:49 AM
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Re: To mag or not to mag

You should magnaflux ALL the critical parts.

No if but or and about it you always check the integrity of your Block, Heads, crank, rods.

Typically things like:

hot tank, Magnaflux as well having the entire rotating assembly balanced.

Other things that can be added to a benefit Cryo, shot peening, polishing. heat treating. Last two are usually reserved for the rods.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 02:16 AM
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Dont even bother taking anything apart. Just put your parts on then run it.

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 03:40 AM
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeJunkie View Post
Dont even bother taking anything apart. Just put your parts on then run it.
You should be fine. Don't even take the heads off, that way if you decide to do head studs, you won't have to do gaskets too.

2002 F-250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 7.3 Mostly stock... for now

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Originally Posted by Steamfighter View Post
I'm getting it in the can right now!!
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Well its a daily driver so if its pretty safe to just install all I have listed and build the bottom later down the road that's what I want to do. I just want to be at least half way sure its going to be relatively safe.

I have another question. Are the 910-16 springs in the summit racing catalog exactly the same as the ones from sponsors here? I've heard both yes and no. Also will they be good for my setup? If I remember right they had a 400# open and the hypermax had like 440#. So are they safe for a 550-600hp goal? Again, I've read both yes and no. Its just that everything im reading is at least a year old and I know 7.3's have come a long way since then.

Sorry for the dumb questions guys.

Chris
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 06:12 PM
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Re: To mag or not to mag

prob the same but they need shims..

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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 06:22 PM
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Everything you have listed is cool but I wouldnt pull the pan and put a girdle on it. If the motor is out and going in for a rebuild thats another story but it sounds like your running and driving fine now. Get some good tunes burned on that TS Chip is you best bet for keeping your set-up reliable.

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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2010, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Oh absolutely. Im going with beans tuning cause im getting injectors there too. Id do diy but at that size its not worth it. I just need to sell my other motors to get enough coin to get them.

Chris
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08 Kawasaki Brute Force camo 4x4- AMR 730xx big bore kit and bunch of other stuff. Nick named Excessive Force!!
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 07:59 AM
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Re: To mag or not to mag

Have you considered stepping up to 200% nozzles. The 4294 moves enough air and a number of guys are running them on here with that same setup. It will shorten your pw which will allow you to actually fuel into a higher RPM which in turn will mean you will be able to make more HP for the same amount of peak TQ and relative CP.

With that change my bet is Beans is gonna want you to use the new stealth and with the 200% its a very good idea. Unless you want to stay with Bob in which case the Pulse is suppose to be a great fit for that. When you finally do that built bottom end and port those heads add a cam etc then those 200% will have room for growth. Or you could send them back in have the nozzles cleaned up a bit by EH'n them. I like the way [email protected] put it to me when I had asked him. "Striaght 200's can make serious power on a street truck but with them opend up a little and cleaned up like that they can make just stupid amounts of power." Me likes stupid in this case.



Have you considered wastegating your gt42?

With the money you save from not pulling that engine part or doing the girdle why not take care of controlling that boost and drive pressure. Give you some actual control.

I just had to make that decision. I had at first decided to go with a 1.15 and call it good. After thinking about it, doing some reading and talking to a someone that unlike me know turbos etc I am wastegating it for sure. Other than the, IMO reasonable, cost added there is zero down side and plenty of positives. You can run the smaller 1.01 housing to give you the best spool up and responsiveness yet still get all the top end the 1.15 would have provided. It will keep your turbo alive.


As has been said about the 910's; use shims. Measure them all and use what is needed accordingly to get them all the same. The extra seat pressure will be a good thing.
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