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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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replacing pmr's

i was considering replacing my pmr's with some crower billet rods so i can start making some power probably install head studs and girdle.just thought i would see what you guys think should i have the pistons rods and crank all rebalanced or just the pistons and rods.also my engine has 50k should i put new pistons in since im in their or just re-ring it. any input is helpful

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2001 crw cab short bed auto 4x4 5"exhaust afe stg 2,f6,jw trans,terminator,cass. stg2's,itp reg return,fuel lab pump.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 04:35 AM
 
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Re: replacing pmr's

IMO, if you are gonna have the engine that far apart just get a rebuild kit. You'll need to have the mainline honed after the stud/girdle install anyway.

Honing the mainline IS necessary, but many don't do it. You have to change the torque pattern with a girdle and studs change the block distortion to start with. The mainline will be anything but straight after that.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 06:48 AM
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Re: replacing pmr's

I was told to stay away from billet rods........... Depends on the power you wanna push, same with the girdle more so for the BIG power guys

69W perhaps you should point him in the right direction for a rebuild kit eh

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 07:15 AM
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Re: replacing pmr's

why the hell would you want to stay away from billet rods??? only thing that will reliably hold to gether OVER 450-500 Hp.....

I am gonna skimp on a few things when I do my build just so I can do billets....and I am doing them strictly for piece of mind! I dont plan on having more power than forged could handle, but with 450K on them, I am not gonna take a chance!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 08:24 AM
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Talking Re: replacing pmr's

#1-First and foremost- if you're installing a girdle then you'll need to have the block machined WITH THE GIRDLE INSTALLED per WOP instructions.
#2- Not completely sure if the block has to be machined to install billets BUT the oil jets WILL HAVE TO BE MODIFIED.

Head studs are fine

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ENOUGH SAID
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 11:42 AM
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Re: replacing pmr's

"will have to be modified" such as?

Stock
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 05:04 PM
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Re: replacing pmr's

Cause billet rods have been used for racing.......As in the are taken apart after a few runs.......May be different because those are billet aluminum, the ones we would use are steel right.........And Ive herd of billet rods breaking........Still we need a 1200$ alternative to factory forged or billet........ vendors

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S475 on Irates mount
TE 17* with Gen3
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-23-2008, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: replacing pmr's

well guys i just want to get about 550 hp or so out of my truck so i dont have to be floored when pulling my trailer up the long grades. so i figured the safe way to do the bottom end was with a girdle if i don't need it then i wont buy it, but rods i am not going to spare the expense.i also was leaning toward installing compound twin turbos to help keep exhaust temps down and i did plan on head studs.

2003 CRW CAB LB 4X4 6SPD,AFE STAGE 2,38r,DP TUNER,4'' MBRP,FASS 15,Farmers Disel Performance 160/100 injectors,ITPREG.RETURN,TERMINATOR
2001 crw cab short bed auto 4x4 5"exhaust afe stg 2,f6,jw trans,terminator,cass. stg2's,itp reg return,fuel lab pump.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-24-2008, 05:01 AM
 
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Re: replacing pmr's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
Cause billet rods have been used for racing.......As in the are taken apart after a few runs.......May be different because those are billet aluminum, the ones we would use are steel right.........And Ive herd of billet rods breaking........Still we need a 1200$ alternative to factory forged or billet........ vendors
Crower billet rods have no failures to date in a 7.3 PowerStroke that I've heard about, and there have been very failures really of any billet rods in the 7.3's (but there have been some).

You can run Crowers with no issues and you don't need to take anything apart after a few runs, unless those runs happen to equal 300k miles or more.

If you don't want more than 475-500hp then factory forged rods will work just fine. But with OEM rods you get OEM quality. Some OEM forged rods are on the tight side of the allowable tolerance, and some are not and will fail at less than 500hp. You have to decide how much power you want to make and how much you are willing to throw at stock parts.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-24-2008, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: replacing pmr's

what due you guys think about wide open performance's short block that has cunningham rod's,maingirdle,headstuds and new pistons.i was considering that option.

2003 CRW CAB LB 4X4 6SPD,AFE STAGE 2,38r,DP TUNER,4'' MBRP,FASS 15,Farmers Disel Performance 160/100 injectors,ITPREG.RETURN,TERMINATOR
2001 crw cab short bed auto 4x4 5"exhaust afe stg 2,f6,jw trans,terminator,cass. stg2's,itp reg return,fuel lab pump.
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