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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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coolingmist water only and i/c questions

Ive decided i want to go with a coolingmist kit for water only (keep egts down) not to gain any extra hp i was thinking about their stage 3 mpg+ kit. Is there anything different i need to do to run water only or just install the kit like normal and run just water insted of a water/meth solution. With running just water i had read that it is suggested to run some water mixable oil or antifreeze with the water, is that bogus or a good suggestion? When filling up the tank with just water should you use distilled water or would just regular tap water work fine?

mods are:
4"mbrp turbo back
afe stage 2
dp tuner 40t,60t,60e,80e,120,140
pyro, boost, tranny gauges

When in 60e on the highway if i just step into it my egts hit 1000 pretty quick then a bit slower they will climb to 1250-1300 and i have to let off, probe is isntalled in drivers manifold. I know these numbers arent crazy high i would just like to keep them as low as possible. Also do these seem pretty reasonable with the few mods i have?

I also know to keep egts down you need to increase airflow does replacing the intercooler help alot with this or is the stock one sufficient?


thanks for reading that short story and thanks ahead of time for any input
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 11:13 PM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

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Originally Posted by jeenyus73 View Post
Ive decided i want to go with a coolingmist kit for water only (keep egts down) not to gain any extra hp i was thinking about their stage 3 mpg+ kit. Is there anything different i need to do to run water only or just install the kit like normal and run just water insted of a water/meth solution. With running just water i had read that it is suggested to run some water mixable oil or antifreeze with the water, is that bogus or a good suggestion? When filling up the tank with just water should you use distilled water or would just regular tap water work fine?

mods are:
4"mbrp turbo back
afe stage 2
dp tuner 40t,60t,60e,80e,120,140
pyro, boost, tranny gauges

When in 60e on the highway if i just step into it my egts hit 1000 pretty quick then a bit slower they will climb to 1250-1300 and i have to let off, probe is isntalled in drivers manifold. I know these numbers arent crazy high i would just like to keep them as low as possible. Also do these seem pretty reasonable with the few mods i have?

I also know to keep egts down you need to increase airflow does replacing the intercooler help alot with this or is the stock one sufficient?


thanks for reading that short story and thanks ahead of time for any input
Egt numbers are good maybey a tad higher than mine.I used to run windsheldwasher fluid with slight power gainbut got scared.(about 35% meth) I would not run tapwater-run distilled water. Hopefully someone else will chime in.Water should drop egt's about 150 deg.

2001 f250 xlt reg cab 4x4,7.3 stock injectors,water/meth,ITP rr,walbro,5/8 pu,BD/MANN ccv,DP F5,OILGUARD,stock turbo,WW,ATS,1.0 exh.housing,high flow outlet,MBRP4",Billet 3-disk,built trans,Billsteins,11 ISSPRO PERFORMAX gauges,Scan gauge,08 rear cover,350 blocks,x-springs,AFE stg2/pg7,P265/75r16 NITTO Terragrapplers.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 12:25 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

The only down side to water only is it can be easier to quench the engine. Other than that you run it exactly the same. It is possible to gain a small amount of HP with water only as well as long as you are not using too much. It cools the change helps make more complete combustion.

One side benefit that may become more important with diesel emissions and smoke testing: Water injection is suppose to decrease soot particulate emissions. In some tests by as much as 80% IIRC.


What Cooling Mist system did you end up getting or have you purchased it yet?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

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What Cooling Mist system did you end up getting or have you purchased it yet?
i was looking at the cooling mist stage 3 mpg+ kit
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 01:53 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

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The only down side to water only is it can be easier to quench the engine.
What do you mean quench the engine?
im new and just trying to learn

2002 F250 7.3 ccsb
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 02:26 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions


where does it spray? in the intake somewhere, or the front of the intercooler?

casey, 2001 f250 lariat, 7.3, 130 k, 4" turbo back, wicked wheel, ccv delete, AIH delete, wildman tunes SOLD

08 f150 lariat..practical
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 03:42 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

Yep that is a good kit. Start out running as it is setup by default.

What I would do is Get the truck up to full operating temp, find some flat ground and get up to steady cruising @ 55-65 mph. Take note of your egt at this speed. That is a good place for where to set the starting Min egt on the first stage likely 500-700f . Set the first stage max to 1000 f and the also make that the second stage min start point. Set max egt to 1400 for 2nd stage . You can then play with duty cycle to get things tuned in. After driving it a bit you can try adding in curving based on boost as well as EGT for the second stage. This will help fine tune things even further if its even needed. You can give equal or more weight to egt or boost to find what works the best. You can also try lowering the max EGT to see the effect. Many things to try as they offer a good number of configuration options.

Cooling Mist's pump is great in that it will hold there pressure even with a couple of the largest nozzles.

Something I am planning on doing to improve things a bit is to go with using two smaller nozzles for each stage instead of just one larger one. This will improve on the atomization especially during the curve up to full flow. I am doing this on my next system on my current X. Also look at the improved injectors they offer that further increase the atomization. Atomization / flow psi is key to getting the best perf from water injection from what I have seen. For a tank the 7 gallon size is nice as you will be running all the time but he price is a bit steep. A great option is look for a fuel tank from a riding lawn mower or something similar. It already will have the port for the water outlet and mounting straps or holes. At these sizes with normal driving you should only have to fill up when you need fuel. Mix some water soluble oil in with distilled water will help keep things lubed and prevent winter time freezing.

The other thing you could do for extra safety other than the settings is to add a solenoid that works off the ignition or other switch. This will prevent water form ever being able to run and fill up a cylinder and hydro lock your engine on you.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 03:43 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

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Originally Posted by worm5932 View Post

where does it spray? in the intake somewhere, or the front of the intercooler?
After the intercooler in the return pipe.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 03:50 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

Tap water is fine. No reason to waste money on distilled water.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-21-2010, 04:02 AM
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Re: coolingmist water only and i/c questions

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Originally Posted by smokinstroker92 View Post
What do you mean quench the engine?
im new and just trying to learn
If you get too much water for the EGT or air flow it will cause the flame from diesel ignition to be put out or start to. You will feel this like a miss in the engine. The issue is if you are just barely above that but not quite to the point where you will put it out you will have actually decreased not increased power. Agian you will likely notice it. When you are running some meth it gives you a bit of a cushion on this but IMO is not worth the danger of running a second fuel source that is going in untimed into the cylinders unlike our diesel fuel. Its not that big of a deal and you will not have an issue tuning the system to prevent this with water only. Pay attention to your EGTS. You will figure out what is to low etc. The great thing with the two stage systems is that first stage is nice and small so by the time you have that second stage hit in you should be into making some good boost air flow so tuning it will not be an issue. I only wanted to point out what is basically the only major thing to look out for. Adding to much water.

With water injection an aftermarket inter-cooler is going to do very little and for the price IMO is a waste.

When you get the system follow the direction for installing the pump tank etc to the letter especially relation of pump to tank placement and the wiring. Do not try wire up things differently. Example would be to think adding a ground from the pump to frame or the like would be a extra good thing. What it would very likely do is have the pump running continuously instead of the CMGS controlling it and why the ground goes only back to it IIRC..

If you have any questions at all in the instructions setup etc call Cooling Mist. They are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful to the extreme. Such as, if you can not figure out the controller (which is not likely) they will allow you to send it to them and go over the numbers(setting you want /they recommend) and they will configure the whole thing for you and send it back at no charge.
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