Head Stud Install With Engine in Pics
A lot of you guys may already know all this and I realize this is not ground breaking information but I hope this post may save someone some work and searching in the forums if they are wanting to install head studs with the engine in the truck. (DISCLAIMER: These are ARP Studs in a 2000 F250 4x4
. I worked alone and I used a strong impact wrench to remove the head bolts. I pity the person who would do this without good air tools and a Topside Creeper and I don't know if H11's work the same or not.) There is a wealth of info on this site, but after reading almost every post on this subject, I realized there are not a lot of photos of the tricky parts of the install. (Searching seems to be becoming a lost art
) One comment I came across a lot in my searches was the need to remove the A/C box on the passenger side of the truck. I did not find that step necessary. Another unnecessary step I read about was to unbolt the tranny from the cross member. I simply unbolted the two 21mm engine mount bolts on the bottom of the frame (one side at a time) and used a floor jack and 2x4 placed under the exhaust manifold and it went real easy. Watch out when jacking the engine because the fan will hit the shroud when you get the engine high enough to get the bolt out and the stud in. The passenger side is actually easier than the drivers because you can pull on the torque wrench instead of pushing on it. Also don't lower the engine and replace the engine mount bolts until you are finished torquing. (Don’t ask me how I learned that
) If you end up using ARP Bolts order extra ARP Extra-Torque Lube when you order your studs. The little tube that comes with the bolts may be enough for a lawnmower but not a 7.3 with 36 studs. I previously posted the first two pics but I thought it worth it to put them in this post as well.
The 8 short ARP Studs go above the 8 injector holes.
Wood block under the exhaust manifold.
Lifting the drivers side of the engine.
Stud going in.
21mm engine mount nuts removed. I put blue Loctite back on them because it looked there was some factory stuff on the threads.
Passenger side stud going in with the A/C box in tact.
Real cool Ford Rotunda Valve Spring Compressor. Got it off eBay and it works like a champ it tight places.
My 7.3 doesn't leak oil. It marks my space!
Y2K F250 Lariat CC 4X4, Bought New
TS chip, Adrenaline, ARP Head Studs. 910's. DI Push Rods
Full Force 250/100's, BTS, 6.0 Cooler, Fuelab pump, Beans sump
AFE Stage II, GT38R, Non EBV, R.R. Fuel Sys, CCV Mod
DPP 4" Exhaust, Isspros, DiPricol HP Oil Gauge
Last edited by icanski2; 05-21-2010 at 06:29 AM.
Reason: drinking good single malt scotch