I have to get a big thank you out there to Chris B at Truck Source Diesel (aggie on here). He went way beyond what any shop owner/sponsor had to. He defiantly has a customer for life with me and I would suggest anyone who wants good tuning high quality parts and excellent customer service to go to him.
1. Hold your sump up to the bottom of the tank to get an idea of the location that you are going to install it on the tank and the direction that you want the outlet to face. Mark the tank with a piece of marking chalk or something that will be visible at a later time.
2. Locate the filler tube and vent tube for your fuel tank between the bed side and the frame rail. Loosen the hose clamps that are located just on the outside of the frame rail.
3. If you have access to 2 floor jacks this goes easier but it can be done with a single one. If you use 1 jack place a board on it to disperse the weight somewhat so you do not crush the tank at all. Place a single jack in the middle of the fuel tank or one jack at each end.
4. Locate the bolts that hold the straps that support the fuel tank. They are towards the middle of the truck next to the driveshaft. With the fuel tank supported with the jacks you can completely remove these bolts and bend the straps out from underneath the fuel tank.
5. Once the straps are out of the way you can start to lower the fuel tank. You will have to work the fill and vent hoses off of the pipes as you let the tank down. As you lower the tank down you will have to remove any more vent lines as well as the fuel line and return line. The wires for the sending unit will have to be disconnected as you are lowering the tank down.
6. After all of that is removed and the fuel tank is all the way down you can slide it off the jacks and take it out from under the truck and place it in an open area so you can work on it easily.
7. Remove the large ring from the top of the tank that holds the sending unit in place, I had to use a large pipe wrench to get it loose. You may be able to use a strap wrench or a large channel lock pliers to get it off. Once the ring is loose remove the sending unit and set it aside.
8. Remove the fuel that was left in the tank. Since I was replacing my fuel pump I used the old one to pump what fuel I had left out of the tank and placed it in fuel cans.
9. Flip the tank on its side and use a 3 inch hole saw to cut the hole in the bottom of the tank where you marked it earlier.
10. Place the fuel sump in the hole and line up the outlet with the line that you drew earlier take a drill with a ¼ inch drill bit and drill one of the holes. Place a bolt through that hole so that it stays lined up while you drill another and place another bolt in it, preferably directly across from one another. At this point you can drill the rest of the holes without fear of it moving the holes not lining up when you go to install it.
11. Clean the area around the hole (inside and out) with brake clean or carburetor cleaner. Make sure to get everything nice and dry so you do not have leaks once it is installed.
12. Using the sealant that is used on Power Stroke oil pans ((Ford) F5TZ-19G204-AB (5oz, 1/2 caulk tube), (Wacker) T-442 or (International) 1830858C1), apply that to the mating surfaces on the sump and the mounting ring of the sump.
13. When I installed this onto the tank I did not put a valve on right away I was going to put it on once it was in the vehicle. I recommend that you install a valve now because I was not able to turn the valve once the sump was on the tank. The Stem for the valve interfered with the tank.
14. Install the sump on the bottom of the tank being sure to line up the outlet with the line you made earlier. A second person will be needed to hold the instillation ring while you start the bolts. Once the bolts are started snug them using a star pattern, go around a couple of times making sure you do not tighten one side too much at one time. Tighten to a reasonable torque, once tight you can wipe the excess silicone from around the sump and allow this to dry overnight.
15. Clean all of the plastic shavings out of the tank.
16. Cap off or plug the original fuel supply line.
17. Reinstall the sending unit. It helps to apply some silicone lubricant (Dow Corning 111) to the threads to ease the installation.
18. At this point the tank is ready to go back into the vehicle. Go under the vehicle and remove the original fuel supply line that will not be needed any more.
19. Move the tank back under the vehicle, being careful not to drag the sump on the ground.
20. Lift the tank back into place being sure to connect anything that was disconnected upon removal (except the fuel supply line). Tighten the bolts up for the tank straps. Tighten up the fuel fill and vent lines.
21. At this point you can run the fuel line to your fuel pump or pre pump filter
As you can see I needed to install a union to get the valve on.
I am running the sump to a Napa fil 4770 base and Napa 3405 filter. From there it goes into a Fuelab 42402 pump. Then to another Napa fil 4770 base and a Napa 3528 filter. I uses all -10 AN hose and fittings. I split the fuel line at the engine to two -6 AN lines feeding the back of the heads and come out the front of the heads going into a Fuelab regulator. I then used the stock return line going back to the tank.