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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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38r install

Hi i have a gtp38r coming from diesel site and brass donuts coming from Beans diesel. They both should be here this coming weekend. I was wondering if any of you had any tips for the install. how long will it take? I have started sparaying all the bolts and nuts i can with pb blaster a couple days ago. Thanks in advance

2000 7.3 F-250 4x4 CC/SB Lariat 6-speed, 2.5" leveler and F350 block, Swamps 200/30% injectors, Swamps tunes, GTP-38R, Valair: kevlar/ceramic clutch, 4inch exhaust, AFE stage 2,
DFA-regulated return, pre-pump mods, Isspro boost and pyro, scan gauge, ~420hp and 836tq
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 08:58 PM
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Re: 38r install

no offense but with the EBPV brake id watch the back pressure on the turbo, yes it works but it can also do quite some harm, ive heard of a couple biting the dust because of it. i dont know about the turbo since im an OBS but it should be relatively simple, IIRC its a drop in an i believe turbos can be replaced in 3 hours or so if ya know what your doing. im sure someone will chime in for you though.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedSmokey View Post
Sh*t in a box (litterally) and write "Will give you 200+ hp, just add to your fuel" on the box and give it to him. Then ask him if he still believe's everything thats written on a box...
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if you can blow up a 7.3 just imagaine what you would do to a 6.0
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:19 PM
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Re: 38r install

think it took me about 5hours the ex band clamp is the bad part and its not that bad
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 38r install

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Originally Posted by bobvillaoftn View Post
no offense but with the EBPV brake id watch the back pressure on the turbo, yes it works but it can also do quite some harm, ive heard of a couple biting the dust because of it. i dont know about the turbo since im an OBS but it should be relatively simple, IIRC its a drop in an i believe turbos can be replaced in 3 hours or so if ya know what your doing. im sure someone will chime in for you though.
Yeah i comletely agree with ya about the EBPV brake. I bought the truck with that mod installed an i only use it for warm ups. I never use it for branking of anything. It is only used at 1100 rpm or less. In fact i think thats part of the reason my donut gaskets are leaking badly. Hopefully my brass ones fix that! Im thinking the install should be pretty straight forward also. The only problem i see now are stubborn bolts

2000 7.3 F-250 4x4 CC/SB Lariat 6-speed, 2.5" leveler and F350 block, Swamps 200/30% injectors, Swamps tunes, GTP-38R, Valair: kevlar/ceramic clutch, 4inch exhaust, AFE stage 2,
DFA-regulated return, pre-pump mods, Isspro boost and pyro, scan gauge, ~420hp and 836tq
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:23 PM
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Re: 38r install

Installation instructions
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 38r install

Those instructions seem pretty straight forward thanks! Any tricks on replacing the donut gaskets other than soaking the bolts in pb blaster?

2000 7.3 F-250 4x4 CC/SB Lariat 6-speed, 2.5" leveler and F350 block, Swamps 200/30% injectors, Swamps tunes, GTP-38R, Valair: kevlar/ceramic clutch, 4inch exhaust, AFE stage 2,
DFA-regulated return, pre-pump mods, Isspro boost and pyro, scan gauge, ~420hp and 836tq
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 09:34 PM
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Re: 38r install

I like using a little grease or vaseline on the o-rings to help hold them in place while mounting the turbo and pedistal.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-20-2009, 10:07 PM
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Re: 38r install

be prepared to buy a irwin or comperatble rounded bolt head tool itll get you outta a jam if you get too carried away and anti sieze the piss outta everything when you reinstall it.

early 99 F350 Supercab longbed 4x4, Diprical gauges,GTP38R, Swamps competion fuel system with bowl delete,custom intake, 4in downpipe to 6in stacks, 200/30% hybrids from swamps, tuned by swamps, head studs.main studs, WOP cryo forged rods, ceramic coated pistons,Adrenalin HPOP,DI cam. Train horns, Ranchand front bumper DMI rear, Kumho kl71
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 38r install

ok thanks for all the help! hopefully i dont run into to much trouble!

2000 7.3 F-250 4x4 CC/SB Lariat 6-speed, 2.5" leveler and F350 block, Swamps 200/30% injectors, Swamps tunes, GTP-38R, Valair: kevlar/ceramic clutch, 4inch exhaust, AFE stage 2,
DFA-regulated return, pre-pump mods, Isspro boost and pyro, scan gauge, ~420hp and 836tq
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 12-21-2009, 03:31 AM
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Re: 38r install

When I did my bellowed up pipes the only problem I had was getting the V-clamp off the up pipe collector. I ended up pulling out the collector with the turbo. I didn't use any oil on the bolts and they all came out fine. I was very surprised. Another spot that might give you problems is the bolts in the manifolds that hold the up-pipes. They are bolts so if you work them back and forth they will come out. It's not that bad of a job. Just a pain leaning over the truck.

2002 XLT CC LB 6speed SRW
4"mbrp turbo back
S&B Intake
autometer NV boost,pyro,water temp and oil pressure
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DP tunes - QI,60E,80E,40T,60T,100,120.
EBPV delete sensor.
blank pedestal and EBPV housing
ATS turbo housing
DI up-pipes.
2007 headlights,2008 taillights,2010 tailgate
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