Riffraff FRX - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Riffraff FRX

Well, I added the fuel rail crossover to my 2001 F350. I did it to my 2000 F250 about 5 years ago.

Gosh...I must be getting old.....took me all evening last night and from 1 to 7 today. I fought the front nipple for hours. Dropped it 4 times almost never found it one time. I finally gave up and paid a buddy mechanic a hundred bucks to come over. He got it screwed in in 20 minutes.

I'm so sore I can barely move. But it runs quieter and smoother now.

Please nobody post that it's a worthless add-on.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 01:50 AM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

So worth the money? I am really struggling with getting one or not.

2002 F250 ccsb Lariat 4x4
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Stage 1's by Full Force Diesel
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 02:31 AM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

I put a crossover tube on my 7.3L and it does run smoother, particularly at idle.

I bought the stainless varietal as opposed to the hose version. The stainless tube goes underneath the turbo and fits real nice. They claim the stainless is a permanent installation. The hose type lasts a year only they claim.

Also, put the thing together with red Permatex threadlocker. (Red Locktite leaks in my experience. Ask me how I know....) Red Permatex threadlocker is available at Autozone for cheap. Those pressure oil rails have an outrageous amount of oil pressure, so use red Permatex on the fitting threads AND the tube to fitting surface. Wait a day before you start your truck for the Permatex to really set up and harden.

Second time through I got mine to seal correctly. It took me days to complete also. Maybe I could do it fast, but I'd pay for the quick job in errors and trashed body. Too old also....
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 09:30 AM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

good for stock nozzles.. anything over that should be a full regulated return...

Early 99 7.3 F350 auto,TN T-4 mount with a s467 for air,H-11's stud's SRP 1.1 for oil all supplied by unlimited diesel..beehives, DI push rod's, new alliant 315/200 hybrids,Driven diesel fuel system with a fuel lab 41401. ...tuned by Gearhead..
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88 F250 7.3 IDI plow truck 112k - bone stock.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Riffraff FRX

Yeah I'm stock. I think it's worth the money. Idle is much smoother now and cold acceleration is noticeably quieter. For me I think it was worth crawling all over the engine...lol. Next a 6.0 trans cooler.

I wish this F350 had what I did to my F250. I'll get there.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 10:21 PM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

I just installed one last week. I am Very happy with the results. The truck runs smoother at idle and is much quieter as well.

2002 PHP Hydra Tuner, Banks Monster Exhaust John Wood Transmission 6.0 Cooler 06 front Axle Pure Performance 6 inch lift and 4 link 08 Rear springs Raceline Renegade 8 wheels with 35 Toyo Mt's Auto Meter Gages PSC Hydro Steering
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2015, 03:09 AM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

I have heard it helps to loosen the bracket to give more room when trying to remove the front driver side fitting..Did you do that or not mess with it. that is the fitting or nipple you are referring to right.??

how hard was the passenger side rear on to get out. ?? I was going to try and tackle that same project plus add replacing the metal fuel lines with SS braided using AN fittings 3/8" size while in there.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolfsted View Post
Well, I added the fuel rail crossover to my 2001 F350. I did it to my 2000 F250 about 5 years ago.

Gosh...I must be getting old.....took me all evening last night and from 1 to 7 today. I fought the front nipple for hours. Dropped it 4 times almost never found it one time. I finally gave up and paid a buddy mechanic a hundred bucks to come over. He got it screwed in in 20 minutes.

I'm so sore I can barely move. But it runs quieter and smoother now.

Please nobody post that it's a worthless add-on.

2003 F-250 2wd crew, AIH del, EBPV & tube. Sept '15, fuel lines to AN6 & SS braided lines, driver rear port,(no dead head quieter engine) CVD, 360 bearing, o-rings IPR, OEM fuel filter, cap. Planning: U-L ball joints , 4" exh, S&B air, IH WP w/ filter &203į Tstat, FleetRunner belt, rerouted top rad hose, '10 mirrors, 12K winch, and more.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2015, 10:36 PM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
I have heard it helps to loosen the bracket to give more room when trying to remove the front driver side fitting..Did you do that or not mess with it. that is the fitting or nipple you are referring to right.??

how hard was the passenger side rear on to get out. ?? I was going to try and tackle that same project plus add replacing the metal fuel lines with SS braided using AN fittings 3/8" size while in there.
It's right backwards on the FRX. Front passenger side and rear driver's side. The rear one is easy, but the front passenger is a PITA.

2003 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Forged
Irate T4 BASB, DIY Tymar, Full Force 180/80's, Adrenaline HPOP, Driven Diesel RR & banjos, Magnaflow TBE, GH tuned Hydra, 05 Harley's w/ HID conversion, Edge Insight CTS2, RiffRaff BRV & coolant filter, 20" Black Moto Metal, Dieselsite boots, JLR valve body, 6.0 trans cooler, ARP's
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2015, 03:23 PM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

what did I mess that up.. I thought the driver side fuel come in the front of the engine on that side not the back.. Is that not part of the problem with the #8 injector making noise as the #6 cylinder "fires" then the #8 "fires" and the lack of proper fuel pressure makes the noise.

I plan to take the turbo off so the back driver side may not be that hard, the front pass side maybe loosen the AC bracket? would help with that one.

When you get the metal fuel line nut off the check valve on both sides what is best to remove the check valve, socket or wrench.

2003 F-250 2wd crew, AIH del, EBPV & tube. Sept '15, fuel lines to AN6 & SS braided lines, driver rear port,(no dead head quieter engine) CVD, 360 bearing, o-rings IPR, OEM fuel filter, cap. Planning: U-L ball joints , 4" exh, S&B air, IH WP w/ filter &203į Tstat, FleetRunner belt, rerouted top rad hose, '10 mirrors, 12K winch, and more.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2015, 03:38 PM
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Re: Riffraff FRX

With the FRX, you just remove the plugs and add the lines in their place. You don't mess with the stock supply lines.

2003 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer 4x4 7.3L Powerstroke Forged
Irate T4 BASB, DIY Tymar, Full Force 180/80's, Adrenaline HPOP, Driven Diesel RR & banjos, Magnaflow TBE, GH tuned Hydra, 05 Harley's w/ HID conversion, Edge Insight CTS2, RiffRaff BRV & coolant filter, 20" Black Moto Metal, Dieselsite boots, JLR valve body, 6.0 trans cooler, ARP's
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