How far to push stock forged rods? - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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How far to push stock forged rods?

I was browsing eBay a few days ago, i found a deal i couldn't pass up, so i bought it. It was 8 forged stock rods, ceramic/teflon coated low compression pistons (guessing mahle's, not sure), custom grind camshaft similar to Hypermax's grind but "larger", (reed?), and Smith push rods. Since i have an 02 i won't put injectors or anything close to my PMR engine. I was planning on getting the parts i needed and then pulling the engine, swapping out stock ones... for the new ones. I would like to use the rods if they are mic'd out to be good.. but how far can i go? Ideally i would like a set of B codes, and BWD's street or towing compounds as i already have the TN unit now.. Can i do that with stock rods? I would like 500ish hp at the wheels, but im not sure if the rods will hold? I am kinda leaning against billet rods, as then i'd feel the urge to upgrade everything else to alot more hp than my wallet can afford. Other than what i have now and Big oil before i pull the engine, i would need head studs, valve springs, would i need a girdle, main studs, etc? Would the engine running those rods benefit from it at all or is it just wasting money? Once i have the hard parts, i want to install them, keep my stock injectors, and break the engine in some while i save up for injectors and the turbo.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 04:40 AM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

at 500 i personally wouldnt worry about it.... go for it, just have the rods shot peened and that should strengthen them u a bit.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 05:08 AM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

Not me I know some one that went boom with some forage rods that don't even drive the truck 50 miles a month. Pulled my stages 2 went back to stock ad's i'm done with the quest for hp with the psd. I'm going back to building real power on my Green motors

No offense but for about the same money to get a psd to 700hp I can have a 8.1jd motor at 2500 hp with out turbos. I have the motor built just need $$$$$$ money for turbos,drop box, axles, built chassis. I have allways bled GREEN

2 fords that make no power
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 01:48 PM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

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Originally Posted by Deerezilla View Post
Not me I know some one that went boom with some forage rods that don't even drive the truck 50 miles a month. Pulled my stages 2 went back to stock ad's i'm done with the quest for hp with the psd. I'm going back to building real power on my Green motors

No offense but for about the same money to get a psd to 700hp I can have a 8.1jd motor at 2500 hp with out turbos. I have the motor built just need $$$$$$ money for turbos,drop box, axles, built chassis. I have allways bled GREEN
So you haven't figured out how to put a green 8.1jd in your 350 yet?

aka - Grumpy .. aka - Bubba Grump .. aka - Bubba .. aka - Grumpy Old F... . . A "slow" fatass 9K Dually.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 01:55 PM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

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Originally Posted by bigrpowr View Post
at 500 i personally wouldnt worry about it.... go for it, just have the rods shot peened and that should strengthen them u a bit.
I wouldn't worry about 500 on stock rods either.

Shot peening does not add strength, it just gives you add fatigue life by reducing the chance of crack propagation.

Quote:
Description of Peening
Shot peening is a special metal surface treatment intended to extend the fatigue life of most metals. The impact of small spherical media called shot creates a dent in the surface that is very beneficial in preventing formation of fatigue cracks. The area below each dent called the plastic zone, typically only .020 inch deep, is highly compressed and this action tends to keep cracks from opening in the surface. Valve springs, suspension springs, leaf springs, torsion bars, gears and connecting rods are all treated with shot peening to extend their service life.

aka - Grumpy .. aka - Bubba Grump .. aka - Bubba .. aka - Grumpy Old F... . . A "slow" fatass 9K Dually.

Last edited by 389SixPack; 07-30-2007 at 06:24 PM.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 02:17 PM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

I ran some for a loooong time at about the 550-600rwhp level with nitrous. I was constantly racing it and put a lot of miles on 'em. That motor's still running around in someone elses truck. Doesn't necessarily mean someone else's won't break like that though. Probably wise to keep it at or below 500rwhp.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 07:22 PM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

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Originally Posted by 389SixPack View Post
So you haven't figured out how to put a green 8.1jd in your 350 yet?

Yeah I know how to do that I'm not building a truck to drive every day.

I building a truck to sled pull and give BBD a real truck to pull aganst
I wanna show all the ctd guys that there is a motor that is a i6 that will kick your little 5.9 ass any day of the week

2 fords that make no power
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

How about cryo treating and shot peening them? Would that help noticeably? I don't want to push it close, i'd rather spend a few hundred on cryogenic treating and have more confidence every time i wanted to mat the pedal. What else would i need to support 500hp aside from head studs, and valve springs, possibly intake plenums, coated manifolds (i have other luxury mods in mind, but what would i need)

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 09:42 PM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

I want that 8.1 motor in my lil jd 4300....lol
prob samme size as my tractor minus the wheels.

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Last edited by southmike; 07-31-2007 at 10:54 PM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2007, 10:48 PM
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Re: How far to push stock forged rods?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerstrokeJunkie View Post
How about cryo treating and shot peening them? Would that help noticeably? I don't want to push it close, i'd rather spend a few hundred on cryogenic treating and have more confidence every time i wanted to mat the pedal. What else would i need to support 500hp aside from head studs, and valve springs, possibly intake plenums, coated manifolds (i have other luxury mods in mind, but what would i need)
when you cryo it adds strength but removes elasticity, in other words when they break they'll snap vs. bend. i would think you'd be fine, but it seems like having the stronger rods have helped with bearing wear etc (referring to blow_by's post a few months back after his tear down)
i cant find the picture of the load dispersal across a stock rod but when i do ill link it
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