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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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clutch starting to squeal

I guess I'm now in the market for a new clutch. Its an 02 350 with hypermax turbo, intake, exhaust, ts 6pos, and a few other odds and ends. I hear south bend dual disk is the way to go but Im not too sure if I'm up for spending $1800 on the clutch alone. Any words of wisdom to toss my way?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 03:01 PM
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

If it's already squealing the throwout bearing is starting to eat the fingers off the pressure plate, and that's your costly item. I have two 7.3's with minor upgrades (Edge tuner on one SCT on the other, cold air intakes, some other junk) and NAPA clutch discs hold just fine in both... And I pull heavy with just the stocker pressure plates. Maybe you lucked out and it's the pilot bearing starting to make noise and not the throwout, but.... Maybe. We might both hit the Powerball tonite too
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-21-2014, 04:57 PM
2000 F350 SuperDuty 4x4
 
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydirt View Post
I guess I'm now in the market for a new clutch. Its an 02 350 with hypermax turbo, intake, exhaust, ts 6pos, and a few other odds and ends. I hear south bend dual disk is the way to go but Im not too sure if I'm up for spending $1800 on the clutch alone. Any words of wisdom to toss my way?
I've been running the Southbend D-D for nearly 9 years, with the mod's listed below, and have had ZERO issues. My stock clutch began giving me the slip almost immediately after I added some power mod's, so I went to the D-D and never looked back.

Their first models were solid-hubed discs, which were a little hard on the drive line and trans. Now they have sprung-hubs on the discs, a much better design...so I swapped one in a few years ago. I needed to do up-pipes, so I pulled the trans for that (up-pipes are really easy when the trans is out of the way) and swapped in the newer-style discs at the same time. The flywheel also needed a little machine work to clear the springs...nothing my local machine shop couldn't handle though.

Anyway, there was absolutely ZERO wear on the flywheel (bronze) inserts, intermediate plate, and discs. The literally looked as good as the day they went in, and I tow fairly heavy several times a year, and drive a lot other than that.

When you buy the complete package, you get a bronze-inserted flywheel, the 2 drive discs, an intermediate plate, and new pressure plate...all good stuff.

Also, I'd highly recommend you replace the release ("throw-out") bearing, the arm, and the "pivot" (it's plastic), while you have it apart. Cheap insurance, and that way YOU know it's all new! Southbend can supply those parts too, or you can purchase through your local parts store of Ford parts.

Yes, they're a little pricey, but it's LITERALLY the last clutch you'll ever do....

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; Turbine Jacket; Banks IC, BanksBrake
Melling LPOP, External Oil Cooler & Filter System
Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP,
Swamps 160/30's, HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5
Full R-R Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Rad & Tank; 4" Exhaust, Twin Aussie Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

How about the chatter when in neutral, the sb clutches I've heard and sound like they're ready to rattle apart
Im assuming its the throwout bearing starting to go cuz it goes away when the clutch is pressed in. I will be replacing everything in the bell housing when i do swap
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 11:45 AM
m j
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

stock injectors?
no reason to run a dual disc

1997 F250 rclb 4x4,Comp910s,SRP1.1,Irate T4 s468,FullForce 350/200,efuel A1000 5/8" drawstraw,DI fuel fittings,D60f Detroit,Grizzly10.25,windowed 7.3 Oct 9/14
rebuild .010 riffraff cut pistons,swamps fire ring kit,Girdle,high-filled block,Manley rods,SBC dualdisc,ATI dampner,MorelLifters,MantonPushrods,ColtCam,
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 03:07 PM
2000 F350 SuperDuty 4x4
 
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydirt View Post
How about the chatter when in neutral, the sb clutches I've heard and sound like they're ready to rattle apart
Im assuming its the throwout bearing starting to go cuz it goes away when the clutch is pressed in. I will be replacing everything in the bell housing when i do swap
They do make a "draging" sound WHEN THE CLUTCH IS RELEASED...that is to say, when you're stepping on the pedal. That is the intermediate plate "rubbing" against the discs. No big deal. They make no noise when the clutch is engaged, not in neutral or any gear. Only when you're steppin' on the pedal.

Having worked in the heavy truck industry for many years, this is the sound even the big-rigs make, if running a D-D.

Not a problem at all...

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; Turbine Jacket; Banks IC, BanksBrake
Melling LPOP, External Oil Cooler & Filter System
Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP,
Swamps 160/30's, HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5
Full R-R Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Rad & Tank; 4" Exhaust, Twin Aussie Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 10:16 PM
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

Definitely replace the plastic pivot, I'd be surprised if it isnt broke already. Fwiw, the napa brand ceramic clutch kit holds just fine with a 10k load

02 250 CCLB, 6 spd, PHP Phoenix, ISSPROs, AFE/6637 intake, 4" DE straight exhaust, WW, coolant filter with ELC, AIH delete, ebpv delete, bellowed uppies, 4" on 35's and racelines
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 01:19 AM
2000 F350 SuperDuty 4x4
 
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Re: clutch starting to squeal

Additional comment(s) about clutches:

I know there are (now) a number of aftermarket clutches around which will probably work, and won't slip. That wasn't the case a few (or several) years ago...

That said, often these single-disc designs use throw-weights on the fingers and/or additional static P-Plate pressure to keep the things from slipping under load.

Problem is, this can adversely effect the pedal-pressure "comfort" (make a harder pedal). Now if you've got legs like oak trees, well maybe that ain't a problem...

Now, with the advent of newer lining materials, such as ceramics and ferro-alloys, the P-plate pressures can now be back down near stock, while still providing a much-increased holding power.

The beauty of the D-D is, that with essentially stock P-Plate pressure, you have somewhere near a four-fold increase in holding power, because you've doubled the effective surface holding area of the clutch. You will never get an increase like that with a single disc, at stock (or near stock) pedal pressures. Also, by incorporating some of those aforementioned "newer" materials...well, you've got a clutch that just CAN'T slip! You'll never get a 4-fold increase in the holding power out of single disc design (not without major...expensive... mod's to other parts).

The pedal pressure issue can be a particular problem on these trucks, since Ford is using a somewhat "cheesy" hydraulic system on the clutch pedal. Too much pedal pressure, and you'll blow that little plastic line, master or slave cylinder, right out!

Yes, the D-D's are a little expensive. But, ask yourself these questions:

How long you gonna keep your truck? A D-D may far outlast some of the other drive-line components on your truck...hell, it may outlast your whole truck! Anyway, you'll likely not replace it for a long time.

Planning on more mod's later? The D-D will never need an upgrade...It will handle just about any power and abuse you can throw at. It will certainly handle more torque-load than the trans ever will... !

I'm not a salesman. I don't work for any clutch company. I'm just a Mech who's been wrenching on trucks (and other equip) for a long time. I don't like doing (i.e. fixing...) stuff again and again. Do it once. Do it to last...

That's why I recommend to replace those other components while you've got 'er apart.

Like I said, done right the first time, it's the last time you'll do it...

Good luck. Post back and let us know what you do...

Al in SoCal
AFE Intake; Garrett 38R; Turbine Jacket; Banks IC, BanksBrake
Melling LPOP, External Oil Cooler & Filter System
Stealth 4-line Twin HPOP,
Swamps 160/30's, HVHF IDM; DP-Tuner F5
Full R-R Fuel System, Pre-& Post-pump filtration
Mishimoto Rad & Tank; 4" Exhaust, Twin Aussie Stacks
SouthBend D-D Clutch; ZF 6-spd, GearVendors O/U Drive
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