I am gonna need to fix my dipstick mount leak prettys soon and I read several threads on how to do it without pulling the pan . BUT! just in case I screw up why is it so DAD GUM hard to pull the pan on a OBS Ford 7.3???!!!?
What is the problem? the turbo hits the firewall? the front axle in the way for clearance to clear the oil pump pickup etc.?
I never tried to pull a pan yet on one of these trucks just any youn's that have please help on this!?
LW

The pan will not drop down far enough to clear the oil pickup because it hits the crossmember. I have seen some guys unbolt the engine and jack it up, but getting the pan resealed is the issue there, and that was in an OBS which has a lot more firewall clearance. My suggestion? Be very carefull and dont drop it in the pan. I did it once, and ended up cutting the side off the pan then making a hillbilly patch with sheetmetal and gasket material. Not my proudest moment.

I don't see why you couldn't just use a wire welder and weld the nut? Ever hear of anyone trying that?

I probably will just use the hang onto the flange and hope not to drop it routine maybe use some good needle nose vise grips.
Should I order a new NUT?
thanks for the help

i have thought about welding mine too, i have tried to fix that damn o ring in there 2 times and it still leaks. You let me me know if you end up welding it an how it worked out for ya

On my truck I used a bungee cord around the dipstick tube over to the frame so it would pull the dipstick tube directly away from the engine, holding the pan fitting tightly up against the inner wall of the oilpan.

Then with that secured, I gingerly spun the nut all the way off (although it would obviously still be captured by the dipstick tube) cleaned everything thoroughly with brake clean, and then applied a "caulk joint" of international gray around the fitting where it met the pan and then threaded the nut back down forcing the silicone into the threads, up through the center of the nut and squeezing it out from around the bottom of the nut. I then tightened it up accordingly and cleaned the extra off from around it and removed the bungee cord.

All good.


Otherwise..... nut up, pull the engine and fix the damn thing.

OK!
any yeah i am quite aware of the risk involved with screw it up and i'll be buying a new pan

I dont think you can weld that ring, I'm pretty sure it's aluminum.

The last time I did the seal I bent the end of a straightened coat hanger wire into a tight U shape that would fit down the tube, but spring out once it passed through, thus allowing it to capture the inner piece and give you something to control it with. You can then slide the outer nut and the old seal off and over the wire, and new seal back down the wire along with the nut without fear of losing the inner piece. After the seal is replaced and nut is tightened the wire can be removed by pulling hard enough to unbend it and pulling it back through.

I think the key to getting a good seal is wiping the inside of the pan where that inner seal makes contact. The IH silicone makes a lot of sense too.

Fwiw..... the dipstick tube that's already in it holds it just fine. Just needs a little outward pressure for insurance. Enter the bungee cord.