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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Stock Forged rod ?s

Ive got a 02 pmr motor, with the mods in my sig and would eventually like to do other mods, but first I want to build the foundation for the power. If I go with anymore than what I have now it would maybe be 230 hybrids and a gt38r, intercooler, and of course all the supporting mods, Hstuds and tyooning. If I did those mods, I wouldnt do anymore for awhile. But my question is instead of buying an aftermarket set of forged rods right now at 105k mi. would stock forged rods with arp(or another brand) rod bolts be addequate enough to support 230 hybrids and a 38r without being concerned about it. The reason I am not wanting to do aftermarket yet is if I do these mods in the near future, I most likely wont do anymore untill alot of miles later, and when that time comes, complete motor rebuild is in mind, and start at that time with new aftermarket forged rods. What are your thoughts on that?

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 09:47 PM
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

Factory Forged are fine for a Hybrid/38r motor... Fine meaning they SHOULD hold up, but there are always that bad rod or something...

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

Thanks CSIPSD, I was just wanting to get a second opinion on it. Hopefully I would get a good batch lol, i've got a nice little ideal on how to remove and reattach the crossmember that should be just as strong if not stronger so I wont have to pull the motor this time, that way in the even something ever did happen and I needed to drop the pan it would be easy, IMO im going to fix it the way it should have been from the start. Plus this go around the only thing I can use to lift the motor out is the tractor, and i'm very aware how touchy and controls are, and how much I can F*%k up trying to use it for an engine hoist. I just like the piece of mind knowing if I wanted or needed to do anything in the crank area later on I wont have to pull the motor to do it.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 10:26 PM
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

I am interested to hear your idea for the cross member. Care to share?

2001 F250, CCSB, 4X4, Auto, Forged rods
Lots of go fast parts and still slow.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 10:30 PM
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggy View Post
Thanks CSIPSD, I was just wanting to get a second opinion on it. Hopefully I would get a good batch lol, i've got a nice little ideal on how to remove and reattach the crossmember that should be just as strong if not stronger so I wont have to pull the motor this time, that way in the even something ever did happen and I needed to drop the pan it would be easy, IMO im going to fix it the way it should have been from the start. Plus this go around the only thing I can use to lift the motor out is the tractor, and i'm very aware how touchy and controls are, and how much I can F*%k up trying to use it for an engine hoist. I just like the piece of mind knowing if I wanted or needed to do anything in the crank area later on I wont have to pull the motor to do it.

So instead of pulling the motor to swap rods you think it'd be easier to remove the cross member, leave the engine in place, remove the heads and everything on top of them and then get on your back and push the rods out the top without screwing anything up or loosing a piston ring?




No way.

It's way too easy to pull the motor.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

Dont care to share at all, lol i'm not going to keep it a secret I dont plan on making money on it. FWIW I've worked as a welder fitter for almost the past 6 yrs. I have the experience and access to tools to do quite a variety of work. Here it goes for my idea.
First off there is a diff between cutting with a torch and a plasma cutter.---torch will heat the surrounding metal when making a cut more than a plasma b/c the p/c has a much more precise cutting point. thats why I'm going to use a plasma instead of a torch.
Here is what I came up with real quick, but keep in mind, it took me like 2 min to draw that, and the final design may differ, but this is the strongest design I could come up with off the top of my head.
I also would like to note that when and if I do this, when I make it, it will be tacked up on the truck to insure a very snug fit from outside to outside on the frame rails, then taken to the shop and bolted to a jig on a steel table, welded and left to slowly cool for a couple of hours before paint, and install. Hope I'm not the only one who thinks is a decent idea. And Please any input is welcome, or and other Ideas I would love to hear!

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

[email protected]&n i forgot to put the pic in there, my fault, here ya go
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CrossmemberMount.jpg (139.7 KB, 51 views)

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

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Originally Posted by Maintain View Post
So instead of pulling the motor to swap rods you think it'd be easier to remove the cross member, leave the engine in place, remove the heads and everything on top of them and then get on your back and push the rods out the top without screwing anything up or loosing a piston ring?




No way.

It's way too easy to pull the motor.
To each his own I guess, but for me and what equipment I have here at the house, yes it will be easier this way for me IMO. I've been thinking about just making an engine hoist that will handle it instead of buying one. But Idk. I havent made up my mind yet which route i'll go, He wanted to hear my idea so I posted, but that doesnt mean i'll do it. Its just a thought, nothing more.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 12:43 AM
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

sounds interesting.

2001 F250, CCSB, 4X4, Auto, Forged rods
Lots of go fast parts and still slow.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 01:03 AM
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Re: Stock Forged rod ?s

UMM.. pistons come out the top. Dont know how you will be able to remove the piston/rod assembly thru the bottom. You would definatly have to get the crank out of the way, and even then dont think that can be done without removing the timing cover. And compressing the rings to get them back in would be pretty tough! You might want to re think this one.
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