Dr. Performance is trash. And if you bought the K&N drop in filter that fits in the stock airbox, get rid of it. Those are notorious for allowing dirt past the outer seals.
I contacted Dr Perfomance and asked for an RMA. Whitney Goeders responded and I quote:
“it sounds like its operating normally. 1200 degrees module or not, is actually warmed to operating temperatures. Now when you get into the 15-1600 range is a little high but not enough to do damage. Damage will not occur until 2100 degrees on that style of diesel engine.”
They OBVIOUSLY have no clue what is going on. International states that EGT
redline is 1250 degrees for our engines. That is the max "sustained" EGT
temp. Meaning if you are below 1250, you are fine. If you are above 1250 degrees for an extended period of time (such as towing up a long grade for several miles), you are at risk of melting your pistons. You can go above 1250 degrees in short bursts, such as drag racing or sled pull competitions, without worrying about engine damage.
You need to get rid of the Dr. Performance and get a good chip with a safe and reliable tow setting. That will allow you to tow with extra power, but keep EGT's in check. Gauges are always important, so you were smart for installing them. One question though, did you install the pyro probe before the turbo (exhaust manifold or up-pipe), or did you install it after the turbo in the downpipe? If it's in the downpipe after the turbo, that's another big no-no. EGT
readings are no good post-turbo.
I have read the ODBII and there are no codes. (Except for High injection pressure caused by the chip)
If it's the P1211
code, it's caused from low injection pressure (ICP
pressure), not high pressure. Stock HPOP's struggle to keep up with what most chips, tuners, and even ICP
foolers ask for. Low ICP
pressure doesn't hurt anything, it just means that the HPOP
can't supply enough high pressure oil to get the full benefit from your chip.