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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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tips for stud and spring install

Going to be installing studs and springs later in the month, Any tips to make it go by easier? Besides jacking up the motor? Never done springs in a V8 before, only MX race bikes and such, is there a specific position the motor needs to be in when installing the push rods and rockers?

2000 F250 ccsb 4x4. 218,000 miles, 38r 1.0 housing with turbo master, 238/80% FFD hybrids, BTS
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 04:43 AM
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

Push rods come right out and there is not an exact position they need to be in. make sure they are in correctly before you put everything back together. They kind of "push" into place. Make sure the engine is at TDC for each bore before pulling the springs. I used a wrench on the flexplate "fly wheel" for your stick guys. I just used a long ass straw sticking into the cylinder to see what was TDC. Studs are strait forward and besides rocking the motor you should undo the tranny crossmember mount under the truck. I did mine without undoing the AC compressor or even the alternator.. You might want to though, its easy to set them aside. Make sure you segregate the short studs from the long ones as soon as you open the box.. the short ones will be used just behind the injectors and are shorter to clear the little jet/spray deal on the back of the injectors. Make sure you have new valve seals and i would buy the valve spring puller from oriellys if you can, its a good one. Also you will have to modify the tool to fit the rear most springs on either side of the engine. I cut the handle off and welded a 10mm bolt on to it. You will get a better understanding of how and how much you need to modify it once you get to that point. Torque them one at a time to 95 ft lbs and after you have done ALL at 95 the first time then go back to 125 or even 130 and call it a day. oh and get yourself a little magnet to catch the keepers on the end of each valve.. you will be glad you did

did you buy shims?

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 05:31 AM
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

its definatly easier with the motor out of the truck but if you take you time everything should be fine... jus do the studs one at a time..
on the springs if bring the piston to top dead center(i used a coat hanger) the valve can not fall very far down... jus make shure each hole is at top dead center when you start each one... with the injectors out the motor should bar over easily... take a floor jack and put a 2x4 under the manifold and raise it up till you get the clearance you need.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

yeah i was already planning on rocking the motor and such, same with the stick or whatever item in the injector bores to make sure im at TDC, havent bought springs or shims yet, is .30 over good to go with as an allaround shim if im not micking out the valve height? i read somewhere when installing the push rods its supposed to be at BDC to install them? Also, should i get new injector O rings? the hybrids im pulling have about 20k on them so far.

2000 F250 ccsb 4x4. 218,000 miles, 38r 1.0 housing with turbo master, 238/80% FFD hybrids, BTS
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 06:07 AM
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

yes.. new injectors o-rings.

and you dont have to install the pr's at bdc.... jus make shure you g back over all the rockers bolts once they have sat with some pressure on them to give the lifters time to bleed down..

and you should mesaure the valve springs installed height to get the correct shims for each valve spring..

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 12:30 PM
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

If your not measuring than the standard rule of thumb is .30. If you can get new O-rings I would and i would also replace the copper crush washer. All should be available in a kit for cheap.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 01:42 PM
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

You can also put air in the glow plug hole to keep the valve in place. I used a compression adapter to screw into the hole.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-04-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

go back over the rockers once they have had some pressure? You mean go back and make sure the torque is good?

2000 F250 ccsb 4x4. 218,000 miles, 38r 1.0 housing with turbo master, 238/80% FFD hybrids, BTS
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 08:06 AM
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

Quote:
Originally Posted by lariat7.3 View Post
go back over the rockers once they have had some pressure? You mean go back and make sure the torque is good?


yes i would but others may disagree... after you get everything buttoned up and all the rocker arms tightened good with your pushrods installed of course jus leave it like tht and have a beer or 2, about 15 to 30 minutes should be plenty i would assume and then jus go back over all the rocker arms bolts one last time...
you prolly dont have to do it this way but i do...

goodluck!!

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-05-2012, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: tips for stud and spring install

ok sounds good thanks man, on another note, how do you all get the rear most injector in? Had some trouble last time i intalled these babies getting it to seat all the way

2000 F250 ccsb 4x4. 218,000 miles, 38r 1.0 housing with turbo master, 238/80% FFD hybrids, BTS
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