ARP or H-11's - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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ARP or H-11's

which one is better?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 04:30 AM
 
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Re: ARP or H-11's

I believe the ARP's are rated at 250,000 Psi tensil strength and the H-11's are rated at 300,000. Cant go wrong with either.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 04:33 AM
 
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Re: ARP or H-11's

H11 is much better materail. Either will work fine for a 7.3 in provided the lastest verson of the bolts are used.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 06:47 PM
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Re: ARP or H-11's

What about corrosion resistance?
For someone wanting these for a daily driver in a harsh climate, I read the ARP's have a proprietary protective coating/plating whereas the H11 are un-plated due to the plating process weakening the material.

Any thoughts here?
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 07:37 PM
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Re: ARP or H-11's

The ARP's just have a black oxide coating. They will start to rust if you don't paint the ones that are exposed to the elements, it just takes a few months longer than without the coating.

Eric
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 08:02 PM
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Re: ARP or H-11's

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Originally Posted by DZL JIM View Post
What about corrosion resistance?
For someone wanting these for a daily driver in a harsh climate, I read the ARP's have a proprietary protective coating/plating whereas the H11 are un-plated due to the plating process weakening the material.

Any thoughts here?
Bathed in oil and covered by the valve covers, I cannot imagine they will corrode much with acids in the oil. No way CaCl2 or NaCl should be getting in there.

2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 4.10 DRW, with "the ultimate towing setup!": Nov 30, 1999 engine with Fluidampr, Melling LPOP, 910 springs and ARP headstuds, DP-Tuner, DI regulated return, AC singles with 80% over EDM nozzles, BTS dual HPOP, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC and BTS tranny .
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 08:15 PM
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Re: ARP or H-11's

There sure are a lot of studs outside of the valvecovers......

Those outside the covers are exactly the ones I had to replace after about 3 or 4 years.




My solution was to replace every one of them that were outside the valvecovers and slather them with antisieze. A little dab of silicone on top wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Corrosion is a big deal. This engine was from Michigan though. So it was a salty bastard. The exhaust manifolds were WELDED to the up-pipes with rust.

Either way. It should be taken into account.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 01:28 AM
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Re: ARP or H-11's

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Originally Posted by Charles View Post
There sure are a lot of studs outside of the valvecovers......

Those outside the covers are exactly the ones I had to replace after about 3 or 4 years.




My solution was to replace every one of them that were outside the valvecovers and slather them with antisieze. A little dab of silicone on top wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Corrosion is a big deal. This engine was from Michigan though. So it was a salty bastard. The exhaust manifolds were WELDED to the up-pipes with rust.

Either way. It should be taken into account.
What was I thinking.

2002 F350 Lariat CC 4x4 4.10 DRW, with "the ultimate towing setup!": Nov 30, 1999 engine with Fluidampr, Melling LPOP, 910 springs and ARP headstuds, DP-Tuner, DI regulated return, AC singles with 80% over EDM nozzles, BTS dual HPOP, H2e, Spearco 6.0 IC and BTS tranny .
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 01:38 AM
 
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Re: ARP or H-11's

Antisieze is a good thing. Use plenty of it on the non-load bearing parts of the stud. I use Detroit peanut butter on the threads/washers/nuts. After it's all said and done clean 'em up and seal them somehow, paint, RTV, etc.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 02:03 AM
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Re: ARP or H-11's

How many of you have used both the ARP and the H11 studs in the exact same application on multiple vehicles?

David Lott
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