Update on the Excursion.
Was getting a check engine light for an ICP
code as well as the EBV, p0475 sensor. It has been running just fine so I cleared the code and let it run for a while. Code popped back up so I figured it was worth looking into. Popped the connector off the ICP
sensor and saw it was saturated with oil. Time for a new sensor! Replaced that and cleared the code. In all honesty I did not think I would make that big of a difference in normal operation or performance as it runs fine now and pulls like a champ. WOW, I was wrong. Now that the engine and PCM
are getting real time data instead of default information from the ICP
everything seems to work better. I have smoother idle, better throttle response and on the higher tunes it cleaned up quite a bit. Much more enjoyable to drive. Definitely a learning experience for me!
Next I moved onto the EBV code. I was smart enough to pull the cable towards the front of the engine while replacing the turbo and pedestal so it was easily accessible. I read on a lot of different sources that a simple 1-Watt | 400+ ohm resistor will trip the sensor and handle the code just fine. I went out to my local Radio Shack and purchased a 1-kohm | 1-Watt Resistor, part number 271053 and just bent it accordingly to fit in the connector. Covered it with some electrical tape for now and cleared the code. Been about two weeks and no code! Always nice when one of those simple fixes really works!
After this was all complete I took it out for a victory lap, had my DP-Tuner cranked up and was going through some hard pulls. Now I am getting an over-boost code. I am fairly confident that since this is the first time I have seen it, the cause was parts I installed on the truck actually creating more boost than the stock PCM
wants to see. Other option would be the MAP
sensor has gone bad, if this was the case I think I would have seen the code sooner. That being said since I have access to a scanner, I will be performing a test in which I unplug the MAP
and scan the PCM
for any error codes. Then repeat the same thing with it plugged in. Should be able to figure out just what the deal is. Which also means a boost fooler will be happening soon.
Moving on, current issue I am dealing with is a fuel gauge not working. Here are my symptoms. Full gauge cluster works, even the overhead with the miles to empty function. All fuses good. And when I say the gauge does not work, its not stuck or reading empty, it is giving zero read out, at all. Interesting thing too is the low fuel level light will come on when it is low. So we can assume the electronics in the tank are good... Anyone ever dealt with a gauge not working? I know I will most likely need to pull the cluster and see what is going on. Just putting feelers out.
Anyhow, thanks for reading and following. Please feel free to comment or ask questions. We have a lot of resources at our disposal here and are happy to test or try things to help people out.