i have a friends truck that weve been trying to get running for 6 months we have changed the following parts.....its a 2005 f250 harley truck with 10k
2 ficms
2 pcms
2 sets of injectors
both oil rails
both standpipes
injector harness
engine harness
cam sensor
crank sensor
icp
ipr
new hpop
ficm relay
glow relay
interior fuse panel
ignition switch
truck has 60 psi of fuel pressure 1200 psi of oil pressure good compression in all cylinders
the truck will start run for 2 seconds than shut off and repeat til you stop trying ....will fire and run on either
the truck had a auto start and we took it out and taped all the wires up
were lost and dont know what to do anymore
I really don't have a clue here, but I would verify the motor is sound, then change the entire wiring harness with known good electronics. Drastic I know but it sounds like your there
i have a friends truck that weve been trying to get running for 6 months we have changed the following parts.....its a 2005 f250 harley truck with 10k
2 ficms
2 pcms
2 sets of injectors
both oil rails
both standpipes
injector harness
engine harness
cam sensor
crank sensor
icp
ipr
new hpop
ficm relay
glow relay
interior fuse panel
ignition switch
truck has 60 psi of fuel pressure 1200 psi of oil pressure good compression in all cylinders the truck will start run for 2 seconds than shut off and repeat til you stop trying ....will fire and run on either the truck had a auto start and we took it out and taped all the wires up
were lost and dont know what to do anymore
definetly sounds like an electrical issue to me if it has fuel pressure and oil pressure,i had a 6.0 that would start and cut off after a second or 2 turned out to be a fuse that wasnt making good contact maybe try replacing the fuses perhaps
Same thing happened to me on my 6.0 if you have the equipment check and make sure your crank sensor is synchronizing and the motor is timed. Mine wasn't syncronizing turned out a tooth broke off the "tone ring" (that's what I call it) on the front of the crankshaft motor wasn't timing itself correctly. Would start hard run for 2 seconds then shut down.
Put new motor in. Buddy of mine at ford got me an assembled short block for not much more than a crank and gave me new heads with it. Needless to say I couldn't pass that up. Good luck to you guys though let me know when you get it figured out. After that list of new parts I couldn't think of anything else it could be.
I agree, change mechanics. What scanner are you using? What is FICM Sync when the problem occurs. No codes seriously. Get an ids and then you will see whats really going on. If it is theft, I believe that PATS wont even let the truck crank over. HTH
the trucks been to 3 different shops including ford for a month and they couldnt fiqure it out
throwing the parts at it is no big deal cause none of them were bought besides the hpop
the truck has a no pats tune in it so thats not the issue
Thats why I said it shouldn't be a pats issue, because the truck wouldn't even crank over. What codes? It will set a ckp or cmp fault in datalogger even if it doesn't throw a code. Can you scope the cam and crank signals and display them on here? Let us know
You should be able to see if the cam and crank sensor are in sync. Need a scanner with PID monitoring functions. Watch for them to sync after start up.
I think if it was a security issue it would not start up at all only crank.
I'm not offemded or anything just sayin there are good and bad mechanics out there. I don't know where you live but alot of times in bigger areas ford guys replace as Many parts as possible just for a bigger paychecks.
I know this all too well. I did alittle math and figured I averaged replacing atleast one injector every oil change LOL. Not to mention all the egr valves/coolers, oil cooler, fuel pumps, water pump, power steering, :blah: the list goes on and on.
I have been tempted many a time to just drain the coolant, load her up and melt her down on the high way and put the damn thing out of its misery LOL
Weird crap like this is usually caused by someone else not repairing something properly. Why is it shutting down? What part stops working and causes it to shut off? Sensor? Power? Now you got a truck that's had parts thrown at it by a number of people and who knows what they could have messed up in the process.
I know this may be a long shot but I bought a ford Expedition with remote start and had it removed and had kinda the same problem.It wouldn't start but only when the hood was raised! As it turned out there was a safety switch independent of the rest of the remote start harness the worked like a door pin with your interior light. When hood was raised it broke the starter circuit and would turn over but not start. Actually found it by neighbor leaning on it! LOL
I have had a truck with no FICM SYNC/SYNC when hot. Tone ring and all were good. I had RFI from my starter, I only caught it by monitoring b+ while cranking. Without knowing what ficm sync/sync are doing, your going to do nothing but throw parts at it. Apparently, your mechanic {he certainly isn't a technician} is already good at that. Good luck.
Starts then dies huh? Well if i remember right if the map sensor isn't plugged in(or malfuctioning) it can cause that symptom. I wouldn't be surprised if its something really simple, give it a shot
Not sure if anyone every got this fixed. We had one come into the shop doing something very similiar. It would start right up, run for a few seconds and shut off. It would start right back up. I'm not sure how it happened, but the emergency fuel cut off under the glove box had tripped. We reset it and all was good. Drove us nuts for a little while trying to figure it out.
Try an old priest and a young priest. That really sucks man, I am sorry about your truck.
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