I built my own. I used an Amsoil EaBP110 filter with an Amsoil BMK-21 filter base. The difficult part was figuring out where to put the filter and how to tap into a supply source. There's just not much room in that engine compartment. I wound up mounting it in front of the driver's side wheel well, up behind the bumper. Tight fit, but it worked. Your location is up to your imagination. Just remember to protect it from road debris and road salt, etc.
Next is the oil source. I chose to tap into the pressure test port on the front of the oil cooler. This was rather difficult and I don't think was the easiest/best choice. It may have been best for flow, but I think you could install a Tee into the oil pressure sensor port, put the sensor in one side and tap off the other side instead. If you do choose to use the pressure test port, I think it's a M10 1.5 pitch thread. It's been a few years, so don't quote me. What I did was I removed the fan and fan shroud for easy access to the front of the oil cooler, then I removed the test port QD fitting. I brought that fitting and the oil filter base to the local parts store and had them build me a hose with the appropriate fittings for each side. This was definitely overkill, since it's a 3,000 PSI
hose, but since there's the possibility of around 80 PSI
going to this filter, I didn't want to trust hose clamps and barbed fittings.
For the return side, I did trust the barbed fittings because it's not under any real pressure. I think I used 1/4" return line and I tapped into the oil filler tube. I removed the tube, drilled a hole, and tapped the hole for a 1/8" (I think) NPT to 1/4" barb elbow. I sealed it using black RTV. If you go this route, don't trust the factory o-ring at the bottom of the filler tube. With that much oil pouring past it constantly, it'll leak. I wound up using black RTV above and below it. If I had to do this again, and I had the time, I would remove the valve cover, drill a hole, and install a return fitting through the sheet metal.....using a lock-nut and the heavy duty loctite. lol
I think altogether this cost me about $150. I extend my oil changes out to 20,000 with oil analysis. Could probably go even further, but I change it when I do due to fuel dilution (lots of idle time in the winter). There are easier setups, but you pay a lot more for them. That's the trade-off....pay more so it will be easy to install. If you choose my route, hopefully my experience will make your install at least a little easier than mine was. Oh, also, you may want to consider filling the bypass filter before screwing it onto the mount. You don't have to, but you won't have to worry about running your oil level low due to filling it with crankcase oil either.