also, any suggestions on what else i should do while i have it apart? going to overhaul/clean the oil cooler, should i go as far as head gaskets and studs? truck is mainly just a dd, rarely tow with it
possibly going to do oil bypass filter and coolant filter, eventually want to delete or gut dpf,
and does anyone know refill capacity for trans? would i be better off dropping the pan or just changing the external filter and fluid?
i saw a post on here before about this type of question, can't seem to find it now
fairly new to the diesel owner world, any help/input is greatly appreciated
we use sinister when installing delete kits. they make good products. your truck does not have a dpf system on it. you can cut out the catalytic converter and the muffler and the truck will be a lot louder if you want. and the tranny holds i think 7 quarts when you drain the pan. no need to drop the pan just drain it and refill and then change the external filter located at the front of the truck. you will also want to get a tuner so that your check engine light does not come on after deleting the egr. SCT tuners are most widely used on 6.0's
For reliablility i would do the EGR delete, i would also do the oil cooler rebuild, as well as the blue spring upgrade in the factory fuel pressure regulator. You will need some tunes on the motor in order to clear the EGR delete codes in the computer. In my opinion i would do the head studs as well while you are going through all of this work.
As far as Parts and kits go: Egr deletes are mostly the same, i would go with the Full EGR delete rather than just block off plates, but that is just my opinion.
Any questions feel free to ask or shoot me a pm
completley stock truck...just a simple cat back system....and maybe a few other odds and ends To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
if your draining the tranny i would drop the pan anyways.clean the caterpillar off the magnet
that particular delete tends to leak.the little tab that holds the coolant bypass tube in isnt enough support to keep the tube from bouncing and moving around.it eventually wears the o-ring out and leaks.rcd has one of the best deletes out there.http://www.rivercitydiesel.com/index...mart&Itemid=54
i haven't checked it recently, and it is currently 50 miles away from me, but i did check it a few months ago and there were no codes and it has been doing it all summer, so its not a cold temp issue, i should be able to get some video of it this weekend, i'll post it and maybe get some input