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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 05:49 AM Thread Starter
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shaking/Lopey idle/no power

So, my truck has been having bad starts when cold, misfiring, rough idle, ect. I replaced all 8 injectors and it starts fine now but it has a really lopey idle, no power, and when it hits overdrive it shakes all over the place. I have checked the FICM and it gets good voltage, the o-rings on the stan pipes had no obvious defects, I've replaced the fuel filters, I've read it could take up to 200 miles for the air to clear out of the HPOP system but it's now been about 220 miles and it still has these problems. I'm at a loss here, any suggestions?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 04:29 PM
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

Just a wild guess, but based on my experience, that sounds like you're missing a cylinder or two. Scan for codes. Do an individual injector buzz test if you have the ability. I have an app on my phone which will go through all of the injectors one by one to see if the spool valve is moving properly. If you don't have the ability, I suppose you could disconnect all but one of the injectors, unplug the GPCM, and turn the key on. If you hear it buzz, disconnect it and connect a different one. If you don't hear one buzz, then you know you either have a bad coil, bad harness, bad connection to injector or FICM, or a bad FICM. But if you get codes, go with those first before trying or buying anything. And let us know what codes you get.

2004 Excursion 6.0
New HPOP/HPO system o-rings; Updated standpipes and dummy plugs
EGR delete; Rebuilt oil cooler; CCV collection mod
VR Black Diamond head gaskets and ARP studs
Oil and coolant bypass filters; Shell EC-1 coolant
Rebuilt turbo; 250 amp alt; 6000 watts of brain scrambling
One giant 240 pound English Mastiff riding shotgun!
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

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Originally Posted by Weatherlite View Post
Just a wild guess, but based on my experience, that sounds like you're missing a cylinder or two. Scan for codes. Do an individual injector buzz test if you have the ability. I have an app on my phone which will go through all of the injectors one by one to see if the spool valve is moving properly. If you don't have the ability, I suppose you could disconnect all but one of the injectors, unplug the GPCM, and turn the key on. If you hear it buzz, disconnect it and connect a different one. If you don't hear one buzz, then you know you either have a bad coil, bad harness, bad connection to injector or FICM, or a bad FICM. But if you get codes, go with those first before trying or buying anything. And let us know what codes you get.
I tried scanning for codes but nothing popped up, I'm gonna order the plug to be able to do a buzz test. Will it harm anything driving around for a few days while I wait for the plug to come in?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 02:04 PM
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

IF the problem is one or more injectors not firing, then I would say you're fine to drive it for a while. You'll just be down on power. If it's something else, like a hole in a piston causing the missing cylinder, then the results of continued driving could be bad. I'd at least check your oil and smell it for diesel, and remove the oil fill cap and start it up to check for excessive blowby. There's no good way to do this, so I would suggest having it already running and wrap a rag around the cap as you unscrew it, because no matter what, there will be some blowby and oil will comeout. If it's a little bit, that's normal. If it's really flowing, you might have a problem. Otherwise, it's your call on running it or not. Just be sure of your decision.

2004 Excursion 6.0
New HPOP/HPO system o-rings; Updated standpipes and dummy plugs
EGR delete; Rebuilt oil cooler; CCV collection mod
VR Black Diamond head gaskets and ARP studs
Oil and coolant bypass filters; Shell EC-1 coolant
Rebuilt turbo; 250 amp alt; 6000 watts of brain scrambling
One giant 240 pound English Mastiff riding shotgun!
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 07:03 PM
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

You could also just start unplugging injectors to see which ones it may be.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weatherlite View Post
IF the problem is one or more injectors not firing, then I would say you're fine to drive it for a while. You'll just be down on power. If it's something else, like a hole in a piston causing the missing cylinder, then the results of continued driving could be bad. I'd at least check your oil and smell it for diesel, and remove the oil fill cap and start it up to check for excessive blowby. There's no good way to do this, so I would suggest having it already running and wrap a rag around the cap as you unscrew it, because no matter what, there will be some blowby and oil will comeout. If it's a little bit, that's normal. If it's really flowing, you might have a problem. Otherwise, it's your call on running it or not. Just be sure of your decision.
Well I’ve checked for blow by and there doesn’t seem to be any, no smoke coming out the exhaust and the fact that it was running good (after it warmed up) before replacing the injectors gives me the confidence that it’s probably not a piston issue or anything of that nature. So I’ve just been running it to work at back, which is about a 30 mile round trip. The plug should be here tomorrow so if that comes early enough I’ll be able to run a buzz test before work and hopefully get some answers
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 01:42 PM
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

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Originally Posted by Turbospin View Post
You could also just start unplugging injectors to see which ones it may be.
ACK!! I can't believe I left that out. Turbospin also makes a good point. If you're having problems figuring out which cylinder it is, just disconnect them one by one while it's running. If the idle changes, that's a good cylinder. If it doesn't change, or if it barely changes (because it's possible to have a partially working injector) then you have discovered the problem....of course, next is determining if it's the injector, wiring, connections, or FICM, which the buzz test will help with.

2004 Excursion 6.0
New HPOP/HPO system o-rings; Updated standpipes and dummy plugs
EGR delete; Rebuilt oil cooler; CCV collection mod
VR Black Diamond head gaskets and ARP studs
Oil and coolant bypass filters; Shell EC-1 coolant
Rebuilt turbo; 250 amp alt; 6000 watts of brain scrambling
One giant 240 pound English Mastiff riding shotgun!
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Weatherlite View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbospin View Post
You could also just start unplugging injectors to see which ones it may be.
ACK!! I can't believe I left that out. Turbospin also makes a good point. If you're having problems figuring out which cylinder it is, just disconnect them one by one while it's running. If the idle changes, that's a good cylinder. If it doesn't change, or if it barely changes (because it's possible to have a partially working injector) then you have discovered the problem....of course, next is determining if it's the injector, wiring, connections, or FICM, which the buzz test will help with.
I would have been willing to do that if I wasn’t so intrigued by the plug and app idea. Mainly just wanted an excuse to buy a new gadget. Anyways, I got it in today and I got a code p0284 cylinder 8 contribution/balance. I pulled the plug to look for bent pins or any other damage and didn’t find anything. I’m having some trouble trying to figure out how to do a buzz test. It could be the app I got doesn’t have the ability? I got OBD Fusion.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-30-2019, 06:50 AM
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbospin View Post
You could also just start unplugging injectors to see which ones it may be.
Yep it's a hassle to pull the valve covers but fool proof.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-30-2019, 02:21 PM
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Re: shaking/Lopey idle/no power

For the buzz test (which in this case is more like a click test because the app I use only cycles the solenoid a couple times), I use Car Gauge Pro. Test is under diagnostics. Supposedly FORScan can do it as well, but I've yet to figure out how to find that option. Anyway, download that app and run the test, then get your head in there and listen to the #8. I don't know what order it goes in, but if you hear number 6 go off and then you hear #6 again, with no clicking on #8, then there's an issue. But, is it an injector issue or a wiring/FICM issue?

Stop the test and go get your multimeter. Set it to whatever setting is needed for 48+ volts. Unplug the connector going to that injector (there's a little silver clip you need to depress) and use the meter to check for voltage while the test is running, or while the computer does it's normal buzz test when you turn the key on. If you see 45+ volts during the normal buzz test, or if you see a flash of voltage (may or may not register a full 48 volts depending on how good your meter is....old analog meters work best for this), then the problem is the injector. If you do not see voltage, I would first ensure you have a good connection at the FICM, and then re-check voltage. If still no voltage, you have a wiring issue and you'll have to start checking for grounds or open wires in that injection harness. Just be very careful with those pins in the connector. They bend VERY easily. Oh, and as for which pins to check, hold the connector with the silver clip at the 12-o'clock position. the two on the right are to open the valve, and the two on the left are to close. So check both sides.

There is an alternative to doing the above check, and you might have to do a little less work. Rather than check for voltage, unplug the #8 injector, remove the ground wire going to the far back intake manifold bolt (just remove a 10mm nut....though make sure to hold the intake bolt in place with another 10mm wrench, because that nut tends to bind and you wind up loosening the intake bolt by accident), remove the #6 injector connector, and plug the #8 connector to the #6 injector. Now run the buzz test again and listen for #6. If 6 worked before and now doesn't, you know it's a wiring problem for sure. If it does work this time, then your #8 injector is shot. Also, the reason I say you might get away with a little less work is because you're going to have to pull the air box all the way to the turbo, loosen and move the degas bottle, and then remove the nuts holding down the FICM so you can move it enough to get to the #8 plug and pull/test it. If you have small enough hands, you can possibly leave the FICM in place. Not a lot of room to work behind it, but it's possible. But, honestly, for the effort it takes to remove those 4 nuts, it's worth it to have the room to work.

Finally, I'm not familiar with the app you have, but FORScan is great for codes, and TorquePro is great for monitoring engine parameters, and is still fairly decent for codes as well.

2004 Excursion 6.0
New HPOP/HPO system o-rings; Updated standpipes and dummy plugs
EGR delete; Rebuilt oil cooler; CCV collection mod
VR Black Diamond head gaskets and ARP studs
Oil and coolant bypass filters; Shell EC-1 coolant
Rebuilt turbo; 250 amp alt; 6000 watts of brain scrambling
One giant 240 pound English Mastiff riding shotgun!
Weatherlite is offline  
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