6.0 solution install no start - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 04-25-2014, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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6.0 solution install no start

2004 F250 late model just installed head gaskets/studs/injectors/oil cooler/ CCV reroute/ powermax turbo/ EGR delete has blue spring livewire TS with inno tunes Motorcraft only filters rotella t6 oil new fuel pump plus more ( been a busy guy)

Troubleshooting a NO-START:

1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).

No codes

2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.

Did not work

3. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?

N/a

4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?

all good

5. Starter relay connections - all good?

check

6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?

yes and the module and plugs are good

7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.

yes and yes

8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM needs to see 100 rpm minimum to start IIRC.

check good also on a charger the entire time/ RPM over 150

9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically.

yes and ficm stays above 46v even during cranking and is syncing

10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS)? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.

none

11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.

checked twice

12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.

no oil pressure gauge on dash. Getting oil in the filter base while cranking also drains after just fine brand new base/cover (broke the last one)

13. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below.

multiple times and no on all

14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.

new and checked all everything is good even checked after cranking a few times forgot to fill oil cooler base.

15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.

new and all good

16. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP and try again. The PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely. Also, check ICP circuit fuse.

good and clean unplugged still no start .25 volts I believe need to check again

17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper (KOEO) cycling procedure before cranking."

new and good fuel cycled three times secondary filter fills within a few seconds. I have a small hiss when KOEO and after pump shuts off the hiss goes away new orings on the regulator

18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.

Have not tested

19. Already answered.

20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.

LPO good have to check with drain pushed down

21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.

well over 1k psi

22. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.

Deleted and cleared both lines just in case

23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.

no clamp inductive meter the resistance is correct as well as voltage to the plugs

24. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.

Not quite sure on how to preform but Autoenginuity buzz test checks out.

25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.

look clear does anyone have a wire harness diagram (not schematic or wiring diagram just locations) both also sync as well

26. Check the FICM voltage - see post #27 below.

never drops below 46 and syncing

Please feel free for anymore questions I am at a unknown here. I am getting some white small amount of smoke from behind turbo believe the y pipe and not seated perfectly against the turbo as well hopefully fix tomorrow.

Tylor 2004
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F250 6.0L CC RB 4x4 Harley Davidson Edition

High idle Switch, Heated seat indicators, Rhino Liner, 325 oversized tires, CB, PA

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