6.0 POWERSTROKE OIL TEMP ?'s - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2014, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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I need some help and wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone can provide their insight.

Last October, my HPOP STC fitting failed, thus causing me to spend $$$ to get the issue fixed. While in the shop, I elected to have the following work done: EGR delete, new HPOP, new Oil cooler, new FICM, new Powermax turbo and custom tunes from Innovative Diesel.

Last weekend, performed routine oil change, this time I elected to run the Rotella T6 5-40w. After performing the oil change, my ECT and EOT where within 5-10* when running on the highway. Running temps were as follows: ECT 180-190, EOT 190-200, outside air temp was approx 90*.

This weekend we went camping and took our 38 foot 5th wheel. While towing, my temps were as follows: running on flat ground ECT would be 200-210, EOT would be 210-220. The real concern was when pulling up a grade, the ECT would jump to 220 and EOT would rise as high as 255, YIKES! Also, the truck had a lot more noise, almost like a washing noise (not sure if that's the best description). Could I have a fan clutch issue?

Before the HPOP failure last year, my ECT and EOT wouldn't rise any higher than the following ECT 220 and EOT 230-235...so with that said, why the sudden increase? Could it be the oil?

A little more background: 2006 F-350, Airraid Intake, 4"Turbo back exhaust, Edge Insight, SCT Tunes (custom) Running 295 muds with leveling kit.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 12:30 AM
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First you need to find out why your coolant temp isn't around 190-195 most of the time!
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 01:39 AM
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If your egr valve is not plugged in it causes the fan not to kick in. So is your egr present? You temps are not far from what mine run in that kind of scenario.

06 F350 6.0L CCLB AMARILLO 4X4
- SCT Livewire, Quick Tricks Looney tune, XDP Coolant filter, Blue Spring Mod, High Flow Banjo bolts, Warren's 175/30 injectors with upgraded spools, ARP Studs, PowerMax Stag One Turbo, Bilstien 5100's. Banks 4in turbo back Monster exhaust. All necessary internal bulletproofing. High Idle mod
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 01:44 AM
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A proper working, correct thermostat will show about 192-195. All engine controls are based on this. Now you may have biased temp sensor or your reading device may not be interpreting the data right to give you these low readings, but the readings you are telling are low.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply guys...here are my responses to the questions you've proposed....

I noticed in the Degas bottle there is debris, therefore I'm having a chemical flush conducted to clean the engine as much as possible and refilling with new coolant. I'm concerned the chemical flush may cause more harm than good, as it's my understanding I can plug my new oil cooler. Is doing the flush a waste at this time?

I'm not sure if the ERG valve is plugged in I know when I return the truck back to stock, I get two codes and the check engine light (which I would expect), however, I checked the fan and noticed the fan is running. I have a trusted 6.0 shop checking everything tomorrow with their software.

As for the thermostat, I'm going to have a new one installed, just incase...however, the readings I'm getting are coming from the Edge Insight CTS...also, the dash gauge seems to be working just fine, so I'm not sure if I have a bad sensor or not. Is there a way to diagnose that issue?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 01:24 PM
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Take a temp reading at the thermostat.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2014, 06:30 PM
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I have a few tips (take with a grain of salt) concerning your coolant flush. There is a popular flush procedure floating around the internet (here), but I think this guy does a better job:

6.0 Liter Ford Powerstroke - Flushing the Cooling System with VC9

The only thing I don't like about that video is his coolant choice (booooo).

Good stuff here too: Ford 6.0 Oil Cooler and Coolant Flush Directions

I've studied all of what I linked to up there ^ and plan on doing what I consider the best from each.

Keep in mind that there are two cleaners: Restore, and Restore Plus. The Restore is a basic (high pH) cleaner and the Restore Plus is an acid (low pH) cleaner. If you plan on doing both you must do a very thorough water flush between.


The cleaners clean different things from the cooling system. It is proper to use the Restore first, flush very well with water, then Restore Plus. The differences are outlined here.

Again, lots and lots of flushing. I will run water through the system until the water coming out looks perfectly clear after every step.

Flush it again with distilled water a couple times before doing the final fill with coolant and distilled water.

Make sure to use a Cat EC-1 approved silicate free coolant. Shell Rotella is a popular coolant as well as Zerex ELC from Napa (p/n ZXED1). I'll be using Final Charge OAT (Peak) coolant. You must use full-strength and add the appropriate amount of distilled water second. Not all water can be expelled from the system, so some will already be present when you fill.

A coolant filter is a great idea as well. Add it after the flush. I bought mine from psdparts.com for $130.

By the way, I haven't done my flush just yet. My oil cooler was 100% clogged. I'm going through the final stages of buttoning it back up. I will be doing some of the flushing steps (backflushing the oil cooler leg) before I even start the truck or fill the cooling system.

2004 F-250 Lariat, 6.0, SCLB, 4wd, Magnaflow turbo-back, EGR delete, studded, 6.4 banjo, new oil cooler and HPOP as of 5-11-2014
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