21. Disconnect the FICM
/ fuel injector harness. Simultaneously squeeze and pull upward on the retaining clips that hold the FICM
/ fuel injector harness in place. **NOTE** There is a 10mm nut on the driver side rear stud (bolt) of the intake manifold that serves as a ground for the FICM
harness. Ensure you remove this nut and the ground wire before attempting to move the harness out of your working area (the engine bay). The harness does not have to be removed completely: you can simply lay the harness towards the front of the engine to allow you to remove the intake manifold. You also DO NOT need to remove the fuel injector connectors from the rocker boxes.
22. Remove the intake manifold and EGR
cooler. Use a 10mm deep socket to remove the two bolts towards front of the intake that secure the EGR
cooler. Disconnect the engine coolant vent hose (the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the degas bottle) by loosening the spring clamp that holds it to the intake manifold. Loosen the clamp at the rear of the at holds the EGR
cooler to the exhaust up pipe and then use a knife or hose cutter to cut the hose (blue or orange) that connects the EGR
cooler and the oil cooler. **NOTE** The EGR
cooler on my vehicle has been deleted and is not pictured in this documentation.**TIP** Prior to removing the intake manifold, document which of the sixteen 10mm bolts are studs to ensure they are replaced in the holes from which they were removed. Take pictures, mark the intake with a China marker, or whatever is easiest. Once completed, remove the 10mm bolts/studs and pull the intake manifold free of the engine. It’s usually possible to re-use the intake manifold gaskets, but you can discard the ones currently on the truck since two new intake manifold gaskets are included in the Bulletproof Diesel kit. The preceding steps cover the removal of a stock intake manifold, and my removal procedure differs from what is documented here since the intake manifold on my truck is an aftermarket unit.
23. Remove the oil cooler. **TIP #1** Prior to removing the oil cooler, clean the valley (top of the engine that the oil cooler bolts to) in order to prevent debris from falling into the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP
) reservoir. **TIP #2** Place shop rags / lint free cloths behind the oil cooler in the valley to capture the oil that will spill from the HPOP
reservoir when the oil cooler is removed. Remove the ten 10mm bolts that hold the oil cooler onto the engine block and carefully pull upwards on the oil cooler.
24. Clean the HPOP
reservoir and remove the HPOP
screen. There are a number of different ways of removing the engine oil from the HPOP
reservoir, but something that can suck the oil out is the most efficient. We used a device that converts compressed air into suction and fills a clear container to draw the oil out of the HPOP
reservoir, but you could also use a small hand pump. **NOTE** When you get to the point of using a rag to get the last bit of oil out, ensure that you use a lint free towel in the reservoir! We also cleaned the reservoir with brake clean and then dried it out using compressed air. Depending on how bad your oil is in the reservoir, you may want to keep your HPOP
screen in place as long as possible during this process to catch debris. Ultimately, the HPOP
screen needs to come out and can be discarded. The integral stainless steel screen on the underside of the Bulletproof Oil Transfer Block replaces the OEM HPOP
25. Install the Bulletproof Diesel Oil Transfer Block. Install the supplied OEM oil cooler gasket into the bottom of the Oil Transfer Block and ensure it’s fully seated. Secure the Oil Transfer Block to the engine with the ten 10mm bolts and torque to 16 ft/lbs. **TIP** Leave the plastic caps on the Oil Transfer Block to prevent debris from entering the HPOP
reservoir (the plastic caps that cover where the hoses connect).
26. Transfer the oil pressure sensor and oil temperature sender. Use a 1 1/16” deep socket to remove the oil pressure sender from the OEM oil cooler and a 7/8” deep socket to remove the oil temperature sensor. Gently clean both pieces with electrical connector cleaner, and install them onto the Bulletproof Diesel Oil Transfer Block (each location is marked on the Oil Transfer Block). **NOTE** I chose to perform this step after the Oil Transfer Block was secured to the engine so I wouldn’t have to hold the Oil Transfer Block while simultaneously tightening these two components.
27. As mentioned previously, my truck has an aftermarket intake manifold / EGR
delete and engine coolant is routed directly back to the degas bottle from the oil cooler. I replaced the fitting on the Oil Transfer Block that would normally connect to the silicone hose for the EGR
cooler with a 1/2” NPT male x -6AN male fitting to accommodate the -6AN fitting on this hose.
28. Install the intake manifold. Install the new intake manifold gaskets and ensure the locating tabs on the gaskets are up and towards the center of the engine. Next, carefully place the intake manifold on top of the gaskets and verify that the gaskets did not shift. Loosely place the intake manifold bolts and studs in the correct holes (remember the removal step where you were told to keep track of their locations?) and tighten to 8 ft/lbs following the sequence below. Finally, connect the passenger side fuel line to the front of the intake manifold using the bracket on the line and a 10mm bolt. Torque the 10mm bracket bolt to 10 ft/lbs.
29. For trucks with an EGR
cooler: Remove the remnants of the OEM EGR
cooler hose from the EGR
cooler. Slide the V-clamp over the scoop of the turbo up pipe, hold the new gasket in place on the rear of the EGR
cooler, align the rear of the EGR
cooler with the turbo up pipe, and torque the V-clamp to 53 in/lbs (not ft/lbs!). **TIP** A light coat of all purpose grease applied to the mating surface of the EGR
cooler will help hold the gasket in place. Slide the blue silicone hose included in the Bulletproof Diesel kit over front of the EGR
cooler and then slide the two spring clamps included in the Bulletproof Diesel kit over the silicone hose. Connect the open end of the blue silicone hose to the Oil Transfer Block and use the spring clamps to secure the hose to the EGR
cooler and the Oil Transfer Block. Why spring clamps? They tighten as the outside diameter of the hose decreases. Finally, connect the engine vent hose (the hose connecting the intake manifold to the degas bottle) back to the intake manifold.
30. Connect the FICM
/ fuel injector harness. **TIP** Routing the FICM
/ fuel injector harness is easier to do with the turbo removed. I recommend doing this before installing the turbo, but it can still be done if the turbo is already installed. Lay the harness back in place (where the wire bundle was originally routed) and secure the harness using the retaining clips. Use the 10mm nut to attach the ground at the rear of the intake manifold on the driver side and torque to 8 ft/lbs. Connect the eight fuel injector electrical connectors (four on the passenger side and four on the driver side).