6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure - Page 2 - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 02:46 PM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

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Originally Posted by smokinjoe70 View Post
I have a 06 F250 6.0 that egr cooler replaced 15-20,000 miles ago and now what coolant in the degas jug is sooty colored and when I filled it up it pushed most of it back out. My heater has not been working when at idle. The engine temp stays normal in all driving conditions. I just did a complete coolant flush with not ANY restrictions. When I filled coolant system up completely and started it I noticed every few seconds air purges out the top of degas jug. What are chances of bad egr cooler or what. Thought about egr delete. Any help appreciated
What most likely is happening is that the previous failed EGR cooler was failed drastically...and when they do that, they have a nasty tendency to push exhaust soot particles into the coolant and all throughout the coolant system. This soot is now partially or fully clogging the heat core tubes, the oil cooler passages (coolant side) and most likely even the radiator cores are partially plugged. A diesel engine doesn't work the same as a gas engine in the fuel delivery department. Diesels get a full shot of air all the time...idle, full load, etc...the only thing that varies is the fuel amount delivered to that air in the cylinder. So, the engine will not show an overheat at idle or part load, etc....but you may find that in summer weather, at highway speeds during a long upgrade pull...the engine will start to move to overheat gradually until it starts to boil over. I have dealt with several trucks that suffered from this problem. The EGR cooler failed, flooding the coolant sytem with the soot, taking out the oil cooler, the heater core and clogging the radiator. I have not tried using the VC-9 to address this issue...as I never considered it to be a "carbon dissolver". This soot, when it invades the coolant, is nasty...and damned near impossible to get out. I usually go a full treatment route that involves new heater core, EGR cooler delete (in the case of 2005 and later, an SCT tuner is also needed to program the PCM to turn off the EGR system or learn to live with the Service Engine light coming on all the time), new oil cooler, and either a good radiator shop core and rod or a new radiator. This is the only effective method I have found that treats the problem properly. It is expensive and a pain in the butt.....but very necessary to prevent more catastrophic problems.
If you were to connect a good diagnostic meter to your vehicle and select PIDS for EOT and ECT...though there is not a SES light on, you will most likely find that your temps are going outside the 15 degree Delta range on a regular basis. That Delta range, by the way, has been changed unofficially to about 7-10 degrees as an indicator of problems in the oil cooler.
You heater doesn't work at idle simply because it is clogged enough to impede coolant flow....the pusing out of the degas bottle COULD be head gasket...BUT it could also be a bad NEW EGR cooler...impeded coolant flow can cause the flash boiling inside the cooler....causing the premature failure of the EGR cooler. You can get a much better picture whether the head gaskets are blowing if you delete the EGR cooler, change out the oil cooler, and replace the heater core, and treat/replace the radiator. Don't forget to put a new OEM Ford thermostat in as well, for good measure. After that stuff has been fixed/addressed, then if it still pushes the coolant back out of the degas bottle, I would say that your head gaskets are having a problem and should be replaced. If so, don't waste your money/time using the stock head bolts....they are junk, IMHO. Use ARP studs and nuts, BUT by all means, USE the OEM head gaskets...they are the best. I have tried the Black Onyx stuff and other stuff, but they don't seem to last...suffering from creep. I understand that Black Onyx is working on theirs to improve them...even heard they are putting the tracing sealers on the material like the OEM stuff...but haven't seen any reports on the results...so use at your own risk. If it comes to arp studs and head gaskets, do yourself a favor, and take the cab off....it is much easier to do with cab raised off the truck.

John
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 12:31 AM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

Dave. I see where you listed leveled on 35's. My question is to put the 35's on did you just use the leveling front or did you have to lift truck 2-4 inches. I am new to the diesel world. Tjanks in advance
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-26-2013, 01:02 AM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

works fine for me
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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-09-2013, 05:33 PM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

technically brilliant! thanks for the efforts very useful
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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 02:08 AM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

I just replaced my oil cooler with the BPD one and I also put in a Sinister coolant filter. My oil cooler was previously leaking mixing oil and coolant so how can I get all that sludge #### out? Any help would be appreciated
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 06:14 PM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

I'm about to do and egr delete and oil cooler on my 05. Should I do this flush before or after?
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-28-2013, 12:44 AM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

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Originally Posted by DeWitt View Post
I'm about to do and egr delete and oil cooler on my 05. Should I do this flush before or after?


Before!
Think about it. If u flush after repair you will just reclog the oil cooler.
After a good flush get it as clean as you can with only distilled water.
Then change your coolers.

04 2wd 6.0 , with all kinds of overpriced stuff added and deleted ..
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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-25-2014, 02:15 AM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

All of this just seems like a huge pain in the ass!!! How often does it have to be done??
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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-04-2014, 12:45 PM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

I think if you have been changing your coolant out on a regular basis you don't need to go to these extreams. My water comes out clean after one flush. I drain it all radiator an block. Fill with distilled water. Take a trip. Drain again and fill up with coolant and distilled as needed. This is a great write up though. I am going to install the fumoto next time around. I can get the plug out without removing the starter but it's still a pain.

2004 Ford F350. 373 rear end. Amsoil, or Redline in everything except motor Rotella T-6. Egr delete, ARP studs, coolant bypass, oil bypass. Add Tcw3 to my fuel. 4 in turbo back, and AFE cold air. Sct x3 with PHP tunes and FICM Atlas 40 tune.
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-04-2014, 01:59 PM
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Re: 6.0 Powerstroke Coolant flush procedure

or your ECT-EOT temps may dictate when a good reverse flush is due

how the f did u get the plug out without dropping the starter ?
I tried it but then I realized I would have to unhook the batteries to prevent arc welding my wrench to the block

so I dropped the starter but only put it back in with the 2 easy bolts while doing the flush

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