I have a 06 F250 6.0 that egr
cooler replaced 15-20,000 miles ago and now what coolant in the degas jug is sooty colored and when I filled it up it pushed most of it back out. My heater has not been working when at idle. The engine temp stays normal in all driving conditions. I just did a complete coolant flush with not ANY restrictions. When I filled coolant system up completely and started it I noticed every few seconds air purges out the top of degas jug. What are chances of bad egr
cooler or what. Thought about egr
delete. Any help appreciated
What most likely is happening is that the previous failed EGR
cooler was failed drastically...and when they do that, they have a nasty tendency to push exhaust soot particles into the coolant and all throughout the coolant system. This soot is now partially or fully clogging the heat core tubes, the oil cooler passages (coolant side) and most likely even the radiator cores are partially plugged. A diesel engine doesn't work the same as a gas engine in the fuel delivery department. Diesels get a full shot of air all the time...idle, full load, etc...the only thing that varies is the fuel amount delivered to that air in the cylinder. So, the engine will not show an overheat at idle or part load, etc....but you may find that in summer weather, at highway speeds during a long upgrade pull...the engine will start to move to overheat gradually until it starts to boil over. I have dealt with several trucks that suffered from this problem. The EGR
cooler failed, flooding the coolant sytem with the soot, taking out the oil cooler, the heater core and clogging the radiator. I have not tried using the VC-9 to address this issue...as I never considered it to be a "carbon dissolver". This soot, when it invades the coolant, is nasty...and damned near impossible to get out. I usually go a full treatment route that involves new heater core, EGR
cooler delete (in the case of 2005 and later, an SCT tuner is also needed to program the PCM
to turn off the EGR
system or learn to live with the Service Engine light coming on all the time), new oil cooler, and either a good radiator shop core and rod or a new radiator. This is the only effective method I have found that treats the problem properly. It is expensive and a pain in the butt.....but very necessary to prevent more catastrophic problems.
If you were to connect a good diagnostic meter to your vehicle and select PIDS for EOT
and ECT...though there is not a SES
light on, you will most likely find that your temps are going outside the 15 degree Delta range on a regular basis. That Delta range, by the way, has been changed unofficially to about 7-10 degrees as an indicator of problems in the oil cooler.
You heater doesn't work at idle simply because it is clogged enough to impede coolant flow....the pusing out of the degas bottle COULD be head gasket...BUT it could also be a bad NEW EGR
cooler...impeded coolant flow can cause the flash boiling inside the cooler....causing the premature failure of the EGR
cooler. You can get a much better picture whether the head gaskets are blowing if you delete the EGR
cooler, change out the oil cooler, and replace the heater core, and treat/replace the radiator. Don't forget to put a new OEM Ford thermostat in as well, for good measure. After that stuff has been fixed/addressed, then if it still pushes the coolant back out of the degas bottle, I would say that your head gaskets are having a problem and should be replaced. If so, don't waste your money/time using the stock head bolts....they are junk, IMHO
. Use ARP studs and nuts, BUT by all means, USE the OEM head gaskets...they are the best. I have tried the Black Onyx stuff and other stuff, but they don't seem to last...suffering from creep. I understand that Black Onyx is working on theirs to improve them...even heard they are putting the tracing sealers on the material like the OEM stuff...but haven't seen any reports on the results...so use at your own risk. If it comes to arp studs and head gaskets, do yourself a favor, and take the cab off....it is much easier to do with cab raised off the truck.