This list is not all-inclusive, but it will give you a good start at figuring out your No-Start condition.
Troubleshooting a NO-START:
1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).
2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.
3. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?
4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?
5. Starter relay connections - all good?
6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?
7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.
8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM
needs to see 500 rpm minimum to start IIRC
9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM
relay is labled IDM
Relay #304. Check it specifically.
10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS
)? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.
11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.
12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP
), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.
13. Check PCM
connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP
harness chaffing? More detail below.
14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.
15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.
16. Inspect the ICP
sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP
and try again. The PCM
will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP
sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely.
17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper (KOEO
) cycling procedure before cranking.
18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.
19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM
) and relay 304 (FICM
) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.
TO CHECK FOR SUCTION LINE PLUGGING:
The pump vacuum test is refered to as an ""inlet restriction test"". This will test from the pump to the tank for a restriction. A reading that of more than 6"" H2O vacuum is very bad. 6"" is the max limit. The normal reading is between 2"" and 0"" of H2O.
To do this test you would need to ""T"" a vacuum gauge in between the back of the pump and the line coming into it. If you have a high reading there, then move the T to the tank at the outlet line. If the restriction is still present at the tank, then the problem is in the tank. If there is no restriction at this point, then the issue would be with the supply line to the pump."
20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.
21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP
sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.
22. Pull the EGR
valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP
sensor hose and the EBP
tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.
23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.
24. Carry out the KOEO
Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.
25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.
26. A bad fan clutch or shorted wiring to the fan clutch will keep it from cranking. Unplug the fan clutch and see if it'll crank. If unplugging the fan clutch doesn't help, then try this: Locate the wire to the starter solenoid (yellow with light blue striped colored wire adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, near the vacuum pump - it has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection) ..... you can unplug it and get it to reach the positive battery terminal and try to start it that way.
Another good checklist:
Wire Chaffing Locations:http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...1&d=1208412696
(in the link above you may have to copy and past the address in your web browser to access the video from Ford.