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4x4 van conversion

8K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  bluedge8 
#1 ·
Finally getting started on the conversion using 05 axles. Everything I have read have people using 05+ coil buckets. I have a set, but why can't I use my existing coil buckets??


I would have to get custom springs made. The van bucket is about 1" shorter. The stock van springs and the f250 springs are the same diameter.
 
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#2 ·
a lot of street rodders either just cut coils to lower a vehicle or flame wrench, I would cut though so not to compromise spring rates. are the buckets mounted in the same spot on the frame?
 
#4 ·
Are the buckets mounted in the same spot compared to what?

The 2wd spring are wound differently and the 4wd spring won't line up in the bucket right. One side will be 180* out.
This is a van. The tops of the van springs are wound completely different compared to the truck springs. That is why I was thinking about custom wound springs.

I wonder if quigley uses the factory buckets?
 
#5 ·
in relationship to the wheel well, the way the axle winds up, etc. I was wondering if the wheel would end up too far forward or back.
 
#6 ·
Well here is what I have so far....



That is locating the axle with some half ass measuring and eyeballing. Think it's pretty close where it needs to be. The top of the spring straight up and down with the axle, but the bottom the spring outboard an inch or 2....

Looks like quigley uses the factory van buckets and springs with some sort of adapter for the bottom of the spring, and then their own radius arms. Google Image Result for http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1444/4821/3609910003_large.jpg

I talked to deaver spring in ca, and they will make custom springs with the e350 top and f250 bottom for 350.

I am obviously going to have to notch a bunch out of the crossmember.

How much up travel does an f250 have? From what I have been reading the quigley vans only have about an inch and a half???

Remember this thing will never be offroad. But I can't have it bottoming hitting a pothole either.
 
#8 ·
If I start hacking the crossmember today, will leaving an inch until bottoming be enough at ride height for a drag/street van?
 
#10 ·
Mine using leaf springs only moves a 1/2" I would think 1.5" is going to be plenty. I've had mine off road one of the places I pulled we had to drive through 18" ruts. Set up looks good what size tires do you plan on running? I could fit 35's on mine without too much trouble. Do you have F350 blocks for the rear or custom rear springs?
 
#11 ·
I am going to run 275/60/17's.

I picked up a piece of 3/16" x 10" x 48" steel, came home, and started hacking away. Batteries died in the camera, and was only able to get this one picture.



This is with the axle tubes sitting about 1" below the inside/ bottom of the crossmember. I wish it could be lower, but its not gonna happen.

I'll get some pics of the hacking and rebuilding/welding tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
 
#12 ·
thats pretty low compared to most of the conversions out there, looks good
 
#14 ·
That should work pretty well. I only have 1.5" between the crossmember and the axle. What are you doing for drive shafts? The one from the van now isn't useable. I got mine out of an ECSB they had to shorten the rear 1" and lengthen the front one I want to say 4" but yours wouldn't be near that since you didn't move the axle forward. I got both mine done for less than custom building one.
 
#15 ·
Not sure about the driveshafts. Was thinking about getting a 1 piece made for the rear, and I think I have a front drive shaft from a 99 superduty in the garage. Mostly concerned about the rear for now. Still need to get a 4x4 trans built and find a manual transfer case, or convert the electric one I have to manual.
 
#16 ·
Keep an eye on craigslist I found my trans and t-case in Memphis for $600
 
#18 ·
You using the truck trans or did you use the parts to convert your van trans?
 
#17 ·
First thing every morning I am searching craigslist for parts.

More cutting and got it to drop another 3/4.


Still have to do a little trimming above the diff on at the front and rear of crossmember. And then put it back together. And before anyone asks, yes the oil pan will clear. Luckily I have another psd van I can look at and take measurements off of.

 
#19 ·
Here is what I got so far.



Still need to cut a few more pieces.

I am going to make arms with stuff from ballistic.
I want to use these for the front of the arms where they attach to the axle.
Large Link Tabs FLAT

The arms will be similar length to this, but I want to run the top arm all the way to the frame also.
Google Image Result for http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1444/4821/3609910003_large.jpg
With these brackets.
Heavy Duty Frame Link Mount

.250 wall 1.5" dom tubing with these ends.
Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint

Also, the factory trackbar bracket won't work very easily. So I want to use either this
Panhard / Tracbar Frame mount

Or this
NEW Adjustable Panhard / Tracbar Frame mount

Which means I will have to cut the trackbar, drill the end, weld on a tube adapter, and use one of these.
XM-12/14 7/8" w/ 3/4" ball CrMo rod end w/ kevlar liner

Before the arms get made, I need to get caster at least close. Is getting the bumpstop pad parallel with the frame close enough? And then adjust the arms to dial it in?

So what do you guys think? Do I have a plan?
 
#20 ·
Where would I get the pitman arm retapered for the bigger f series joint?
 
#22 ·
Is this going to work? This is with the axle mounting holes perpendicular to the frame.



Anybody know what size reaming bit I need for the pitman arm?
 
#23 ·
Any input on the arms?:poke::D

Is the axle mount holes perpendicular to the frame close enough to get caster set with the end of each arm being adjustable?

Will I need a swaybar? If so I need to shorten or get some some shorter links and make the frame brackets.

1.5" per foot the correct taper for the pitman arm?

I am going to have to lengthen the trackbar to use the ballistic bracket. So I want to cut it and sleeve it. Then cut the frame end off and drill and tap it for a ballistic joint.

Then, since its lowered so much, in order to keep the draglink and tracbar at the same angle, the draglink will have to go in from the top. It will still clear the steering box. The van pitman arm taper is so much smaller that there should be plenty of meat to taper it the other way.

Thoughts?
 
#24 ·
I got nothing, bump for ya. maybe pm obswiz he seems to have his hands into a lot of swaps and could maybe shed some light on geometry
 
#25 ·
I would recommend a sway bar. For the rest I'd try to get ahold of a custom 4x4 shop. They should be able to help with your questions. Other than that yours is completely different than mine. Maybe look at an 05 model truck and try and set yours up similar.
 
#26 ·
Make any progress?
 
#27 ·
Kind of. The ballistic joints were way backordered, so I found some from one of their dealers. Got the rest of the stuff from ballistic today except the tubing. A friend is going to see if he can get me that. Same friend is extending and drilling/tapping the trackbar for a ballistic joint to be used with a ballistic frame bracket.
 
#28 ·
Oh yeah, ordered a 1.5" per foot reamer off ebay today. Measuring as best I could with a dial caliper and using an online calculator, I got 1.55" so I hope the reamer is right.
 
#29 ·
Sounds good. Any news on a t-case? If yours goes like mine did the days you feel you don't get much done are the days the most important stuff gets done.
 
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