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Lifting 97 F350 CCLB NEED HELP PLEASE!

6K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  Texas_outlaw 
#1 ·
I am in the beginning stages of planning my lift. I am on a budget like anyone else and trying to do the best/safest lift possible without breaking the bank. I was thinking about doing a 4" Skyjacker lift and backing that up with a Sky Manufacturing 5"/4.5" shackle lift. I am going to use a 37" tire and want a nice big look. I don't want to use mudders, probably going to go with BFG A/T's, with a 17" wheel the price is still almost something I can stomach.

Questions I have:

1) will a 6" drop pitman work? Or will I need a custom drop?

2) what do I do about drive shaft angles? I know the geometry gets all out of wack and I want to keep from replacing u-joints every couple thousand miles.

3) what kind of shock would you suggest?

4) what else am I missing?

This is my first lift, if I sound green thats because I am. Just looking for some input. If you have something simular and you can list what you used that would be awesome. Even a picture of your rig would be great. My buddy is finishing up the body work and I will be lifting it in May.

Any and all input would be helpful.

Thank you.
 
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#2 ·
I am in the beginning stages of planning my lift. I am on a budget like anyone else and trying to do the best/safest lift possible without breaking the bank. I was thinking about doing a 4" Skyjacker lift and backing that up with a Sky Manufacturing 5"/4.5" shackle lift. I am going to use a 37" tire and want a nice big look. I don't want to use mudders, probably going to go with BFG A/T's, with a 17" wheel the price is still almost something I can stomach.

Questions I have:

1) will a 6" drop pitman work? Or will I need a custom drop? 6" will work fine for you.

2) what do I do about drive shaft angles? I know the geometry gets all out of wack and I want to keep from replacing u-joints every couple thousand miles. You may need some degree shims that will help driveline angles, & a drop carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft.

3) what kind of shock would you suggest? On a solid axle / leaf susp. shocks are not as important as coil overs, I always use a double front shock mount & cheap shocks.

4) what else am I missing? Upgraded steering stabilizer will help a lot. Check out Rough country they are a inexpensive lift usually, Ive had pretty good luck with em in the past. I recommend BDS but big $$$

This is my first lift, if I sound green thats because I am. Just looking for some input. If you have something simular and you can list what you used that would be awesome. Even a picture of your rig would be great. My buddy is finishing up the body work and I will be lifting it in May.

Any and all input would be helpful.

Thank you.

Hope this helps

If your gonna stack lifts you might need a longer trac bar or a lower trac bar mount then the 4" one u are looking at. I make all my own out of a 3 point hitch are you can get at your local farm store & its adjustable!! get it to your desired length & weld it solid.

When you get it done you are looking for your trac bar & your steering drag link to run parallel or close to it. If not you will have bad bump steer.
 
#3 ·
I dont think your going to be able to fit 37's under a 4" lift. I have a 6" and have enough room for 37's. little rub but thats it. You are going to have to drop the trac bar.
 
#5 ·
I have 36x15.50" ATZ's and clear the bumper and fenders just fine with a 4" Rough Country lift. It does however rub the springs at full turn but the wide tire would he to blame for that. The bumper is spaced forward just a little and trimmed a small piece off. Neither one would be noticeable if I didn't tell you. I have had this set up for 8 months now. I question the length of the pitman arm RC sends with the lift. I don't think it drops far enough. Local shop said it needs about 2" more and also steering stabilizer(s). I ordered a dual stabilizer yesterday from RC so we'll see what kind of difference it will make going from not having any at all. LOL

I would post pictures but I am on my phone and haven't mastered that one yet.:doh: I will when I get to a computer or you can look at my Facebook page.
 
#7 ·
If you want it to ride with any quality you need to use a RS kit and SD springs. You need a min 3" RS kit and 4" front icons, rear 5" Icons on 2" blocks. this is because the suspension will actually flex unlike std lift kits. You will need a Hi steer kit for correct steering and a new track bar and mount system or you will have major bump steer. We have everything needed to lift a OBS correctly. Pm me if I can help.
 
#8 ·
I ordered a dual stabilizer yesterday from RC so we'll see what kind of difference it will make going from not having any at all. LOL


I have used the RC Stabilizer on a few different trucks, they are cheap & work really good!!
 
#9 ·
Good to hear! Hopefully it does the trick. Local alignment shop said I needed atleast one and figured with the price might as well get a dual, plus it should look good. Who knowsLOL. I might be looking into getting a pitman arm that drops lower anyways. I guess we shall see.
 
#10 ·
I have a brand new BDS 6" pitman arm in the box, what # spline does your truck have? I ll sell u this one if u want it.
 
#16 ·
I've got a 4" superlift and sky manufacturing 5" RSK with a 4.5"flip in the rear. Very durable and well built. I had to use the track bar spacer sent with the RSK and the extended mount in the superlift kit to get a good angle and fit. I talked to numerous driveline shops and was told to clock my transfercase unless I wanted to spend big money for a custom shaft with a 40-60 degree CV joint. Great lake off road sells the transfercase indexing ring for $70 that has 3 set points and will put your driveline angle to pretty much stock. I had the 42's on my truck with just the superlift and they fit well. Having a ranch hand replacement bumper up front helps a lot with tire bigger tires. Any questions feel free to ask, I've had enough experience doing all of this to my truck.
 
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