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6.0 no start issues ... GP's or Fuel related?

1K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  tturbonegro 
#1 ·
Trying to help friend diagnose/fix his 6.0 ... I'm going to look at it in person tommorw but for the mean time I'm relay what he's saying so far..
03 F450 xl crew cab dump body 4x4
He said at the end of the year he was having issues ...for one he ran it out of fuel at one point..filter have been replaced and lines bled, etc...it was running after this issue but that's when it started acting up (hard cold starts, etc..)
It kept getting harder and harder to start and now cranks and cranks but won't start..
He says the wait to start light is only staying of for a few seconds even after sitting for 2 days in the cold and it won't start..
He was spraying starting fluid and such at one point to start it..
I'm thinking possibly the GP's are shot? Or the relay jus took a crap?
Or I guess it could also still be fuel related...?
I'm gonna drain the bowl and see if the pump fills it back up when key turned to rule out the pump...?
Try and jump the GPR?
Anything else dumb to rule out right away?
No CEL..and he says he thinks the gauges were moving last time he tried to start it...he already went thru 2 batteries and a starter trying to crank and crank it...
I have a 7.3 and I've been reading thru the 6.0 threads all afternoon and I know I'm kinda all over the place with the description but hopefully get some input from you guys..
 
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#2 ·
Sorry that I can not offer any other advise other than I've read on here not to use starting fluid to get them started.
Has he tried cycling the key more than once before turning it over to give the gp a chance to heat up the block?
 
#4 ·
First of all have your buddy throw away the starting fluid, starting fluid is not good for gasoline engines and even worse for diesel engines, toss it. Try plugging the truck in and leave it in overnight before you get there, does he have any way to scan for codes? Next check the air filter sensor, take off the fuel bowl cap and have him cycle the key, see if the bowl fills up. Also if you have any way to check the IPR and ICP during cranking, and if need be take the FICM apart and check voltages at key on and during cranking.
 
#6 ·
how many mile on your friends truck? there is an easy way to determine if it's his HPOP. you/ he can do a voltage test on his IPR to determine if the HPOP has went south. i went through this back in janurary. i would lean towards that because it is the most common cause.....unfortunately. read the "no start" thread for the details on the voltage test. that's how i determined mine to be out, after waisting a week of diagnostics on other crap, because i didn't want it to be that, but it was, so i got knee deep in changing it.
 
#7 ·
My first thought would be to check if there is any smoke coming out from the tailpipe while cranking over. If yes, then I would lean towards a glow plug or injector related problem. If no I would lean towards a fuel system or FICM problem. I am not sure about HPOP and ICP, I think they need 500psi for the injectors to fire but I don't know if they will show smoke out the pipe if they are getting less than 500psi.

Also when cycling the key over you should hear a buzz from the engine bay, this is the injectors if the truck has the inductive heating flash. If its not buzzing its a very good sign that the FICM is shot. Or it could have an older flash that buzzes the injectors at shut down.


There is some info on here for testing the GPCM (Glow plug control module) and the FICM (fuel injection control module) to rule them out.
 
#8 ·
Thanks guys..didn't get to mess with it today...but i did show him the big sticker under the hood of his 24v cummins that says do not use starting fluid, could damage motor severly or something of that nature...ha
Hopefully get to it tommorow...
 
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