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6.0l Mods required to run on WMO/Diesel mixture...NO NAY-SAYERS PLEASE

11K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  Simone0414 
#1 ·
I have an 04 F-250 6.0l King Ranch that I have been experimenting on for awhile with WMO. I have a 275 GAL tank I use for mixing centrifuge filtered WMO and diesel. Up until now I have kept the mix between 10-20%, but not without some issues, mainly some power loss issues. On top of the WMO being run through the centifuge multiple times, the fuel/oil mixture is run through a 30 micron water block filter, 15 micron water block filter, and a 7 micron filter before entering the trucks fuel tank.

Does anyone have any experience running the 6.0l with WMO/diesel mixtures without issues, and if so have you made any modifications to the engine such as altering the emissions system, removing a sensor, altering some other components, or anything else that might be usefull?

Thank you for your help.

Larry
 
#6 ·
I ran wvo in my 7.3, and loved it. I think the wisest thing I did was run the oil through a centrifuge. It may cost a little more in the front end, but it is so easy once you have it set up. I have seen them set up on the truck. HpFP runs the CF in a holding tank and when it is clean the same HPFP pumped the fuel to the heads. The 6.0 is obviously much more fineky but if I were to do it I would get another CF to super clean the oil.

Good luck.
 
#8 ·
The 6.0L injector is pretty tough.

I ran 100% crude oil for 6mo never had a issue other than got some watter in it once. Later had the injectors out and they where like new yet :)

This was 2 years ago just never got back to it yet but by the looks of oil prices I may be doing it again.
 
#10 ·
If you are serious about it, I would run a completely separate system for the WMO and heat it as if it were Veggie to get the viscosity as close to diesel as possible. I would start on regular diesel and switch over when hot. You could run 100% this way. Regular temperature operating range of diesel gives you a viscosity of anywhere from 2.5 to 10 centistrokes.(actually broader than this, but I'm not looking at extremes) SAE 20 and 30 weight oil will get to 10 centistrokes between 165 and 180 degrees. Assuming you are using used motor oil that has not been overused to the point of getting thicker, even the viscosity of a higher weight oil should be lower than the numbers used for new oil so I'm guessing 180 degrees should get it in the right range also.Straight oil has a higher BTU per gallon so you should have no loss of power. This will help save the injectors IMO
 
#12 ·
:stupid:

Using a seperate fuel system is a good idea for a multitude of reasons:

1. Can always fall back to the OEM diesel system when something goes wrong
2. OEM fuel pump is not designed to pump motor oil.
3. Can always fall back to the OEM diesel system when something goes wrong
4. Sperate system allows you to run WMO, WVO, Kerosene, Regular Diesel, etc.
5. Can always fall back to the OEM diesel system when something goes wrong
6. Will be easier to remove and sell if you ever need to sell the truck
7. Can always fall back to the OEM diesel system when something goes wrong
8. Heated system ensures minimal if any issue with viscosity
9. Can always fall back to the OEM diesel system when something goes wrong
10. Having two complete redundant fuel systems makes for simple troubleshooting of either fuel system

Oh yeah, and maybe the most important item- Can always fall back to the OEM diesel system when something goes wrong. Plus the extended range of an extra tank is nice to have too.

In addition, as other have recomended I would be sure to filter down to at least 10micron absolute, if not 5 micron absolute. In my experiance I have had many customers(Former owner of DFA) that ran WMO and I have never heard of any problems as a result. I never studied it or recomended it, but again never heard anything bad either.
 
#11 ·
OP (lleuci)

Where are you located? What were the ambient condition like when you experienced power loss? I had to back down to 20% WMO in the winter from 50% in the summer here in IN. I have an unmodified 7.3L. I filter down to 1 micron absolute. I would suggest filtering better than 7 micron.

David
 
#13 ·
Just as a note. If you ever plan to use your separate system for vegetable oil, be sure that your extra tank is either either aluminum or plastic. I've read that steel can accelerate polymerization. I don't remember if stainless does also. Also, the purge system will have to be utilized or you will end up with clogged injectors.
 
#14 ·
Last spring I ran 30 gallons of WMO in an old 6.2. I blended the WMO with gasoline at 20%, then settled over night, then filtered down to 5 microns. I still found a lot of black in my fuel, and my injectors got coked pretty bad after about a month. I believe the black in my blend was free-carbon particles smaller than 5-microns. I believe the premature coking of my injectors was due to the free-carbon in my filtered blend. It is good to know some people are burning WMO successfully, but I am going to stick with WVO for now.
 
#15 ·
Jeffery,

The coking etc. might be from running WMO and WVO back to back. I find it good practice to run a least one tank of straight D2 prior to switching. WMO and WVO don't play nice together.

To the OP, I have a friend with a bunch of miles on a 7.3 PSD with no issues. He's running W85 (85WMO/15RUG). Check out my WMO How To thread for some details. I strongly suggest a quality absolute rated 5 micron or less final filter even if you CF the WMO. Currently I'm using a 20" absolute filter cartridge and rarely have issues with clogged filters. In fact the only issue I've had of late was with a 10" filter and rushing a batch, I unknowingly collapsed the filter pumping into the truck. That resulted in several plugged onboard filters but no issues since. I have found that well filtered W85 runs exactly like summer diesel. In winter I add 5% more RUG or a little D2 when the temp drops below 10F.

It's good to know others are having luck with the 6.0. I've been wanting to trade my wifes '03 5.4L Expedition in on a used diesel Excursion and there seems to be more 6.0's out there than 7.3's. Given my track record with blended fuels I'd have no qualms about running my fuel in a newer truck. My neighbor just picked up a very well maintained 92 IDI dually. He's put a bunch of miles on it since then. Since I make his fuel he did get some of that bad batch but it cleared up for him as well. He's used another 200 gallons since then and the truck is driving great.
 
#16 ·
Jeffery, The coking etc. might be from running WMO and WVO back to back. I find it good practice to run a least one tank of straight D2 prior to switching. WMO and WVO don't play nice together.
Thanks, Chris, I had not thought that my problem with excessive coking was due to blending WMO with WVO. I will surely try your recommendation if I ever go back to WMO. For now I have all of the WVO I can handle, and prefer the smell.
 
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