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Transmission/Builder Problems, Please Help

11K views 147 replies 17 participants last post by  aklim 
#1 ·
So here recently I had my transmission rebuilt and beefed up to hold the new power i have added to my truck. No big deal, didn't have money for a BTS (don't want to hear that I should have bought one, I know what I did) so I asked around for a reputable trans builder. Found one recommended by a friend so I called and we worked out a price. Took my trans out and dropped it off. 4 days later I had it back. Installed it, filled it up, drove home, checked the fluid the next day and everything was in check. Drove it around for the first time on a trip up the interstate. In freezing temperatures (10-20*) it would run 140* on the interstate and about 160* in town sometimes spiking to 180*. I let it go thinking it was a one time thing. Nope. Continues to do this. Hauling a load of wood it ran constantly 180* and even got up to 220*. The TC also locked up several times when I put the truck in reverse. Next day I call the builder, tell him the problems. He told me to bring it up and he would look at it. Got it back 2 days later, nothing done he just tells me to heat wrap the exhaust and put a larger cooler on it.

I wrapped my exhaust but haven't got a cooler on it yet because I don't have money at the moment (unemployed, sucky). But nothing has changed, and I have a feeling that it won't. My transmission never got hot before the rebuild. Not ever. Even when i would horse around with the newly installed injectors. Only time it got hot was backing a heavy load of wood up our drive (which is a slope). I'm not sure why this would happen. So far the builder has been helpful but I'm not sure how hell react after i tell him its still getting hot. Surely he is professional enough to step up and start warranting parts (I have a 1yr 12k mile warranty).

So after ranting, what are PSN's thoughts on this? Like I said, I don't want to hear that I should have bought a BTS or any other option. I'm not made of money and cant buy a trans for what i payed for the truck. Anything that he or I may have over looked? I'm open for any alternatives at this point.

Sorry for the long post.
Thanks, Daniel
 
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#4 ·
OK so first off since we now know that you did the install, how did you flush the lines and cooler before installing the new trans? Second, That is a p!ss poor warranty from a trans builder. It sounds like an end of the parking lot warranty. He should have flushed everything when you brought it to him the first time for overheating issues. Now that the converter is locking it is too late for a simple fix. It needs to come out and get rebuilt. Some coolers are meant as add ons and some are meant as replacements.
 
#5 ·
I blew the lines out with a air hose, that was how he explained it to me. Why do you think it needs rebuilt again? I don't think the transmission is junk, but I'm not a pro on this stuff. It does alright till it gets hot. If i stay cruising it'll shift alright and stay around 140*. I'm half wondering if the converter could be a dud? The fluid doesn't smell burnt and from what i can tell looks alright. I also didn't replace the VB, could that be a factor. He stated that he cleaned it all out real good.
 
#15 ·
I blew the lines out with a air hose, that was how he explained it to me. Why do you think it needs rebuilt again? I don't think the transmission is junk, but I'm not a pro on this stuff. It does alright till it gets hot. If i stay cruising it'll shift alright and stay around 140*. I'm half wondering if the converter could be a dud? The fluid doesn't smell burnt and from what i can tell looks alright. I also didn't replace the VB, could that be a factor. He stated that he cleaned it all out real good.
I won't slap you in the face by calling you a hack, but keep in mind the internals of the cooler is much like tinfoil fins, very likley to be blown apart by high air pressure. Did cleaning out the cooler by this method produce any metal flakes?

The transmission shifts fine and the TC locks up. It just builds stupid heat and has the reverse issue. I must also note that when the TC locks in reverse its usually around 180* or hotter. And when I say he cleaned it out good I was refering to the transmission and internal lines, I don't know what he did with the VB because we had decided that I wasn't going to put one in at that time. Another thing that he mentioned was that there is a check ball/valve (not real sure of the technical) that could stick causing the transmission to bypass the fluid from the cooler. He told me its a warrenty part but he didn't replace it.
If you're refering to the cooler bypass valve located in the case immediatly behind the pump, this should be replaced every time the pump is even removed for inspection. This could be part of your issue. As for the reverse issue, my .02 is the VB, but where in the VB...?

Take this for what it's worth. I'm not just stabbing in the dark, I'm a Journeyman mechanic, specializing in transmissions for 4.5 of my 7 yrs in the industry.
 
#6 ·
He CLEANED the valve body? So he didn't replace all of the seals and o-rings in the valve body or the springs? The fact that when it gets warmed up it slips tells me you have internal leakage issues. What happens is that when the fluid is cold it is thicker and therefore doesn't leak as much past the seals, o-rings, etc. Once it gets warm it starts leaking internally that is and that is when the pressure drops and it starts slipping which then creates excessive heat, hence the higher temps. Cleaning the lines out with just an air hose is a hack way of doing it. It needed to be flushed properly. There can be just enough passageway for air to get through but the fluid which is much denser can not pass through as freely which restricts flow to the trans. I would get away from that place as fast as possible. I certainly wouldn't let him build a trans for my go kart. Call Brian at BTS and describe your symptoms to him and see what he says.
 
#7 ·
The filter may be sucking air or might have fallen out laying in the pan. Pump may be warped causing pressure lose allowing converter to lock. TQ requires pressure to stay unlocked.

Your trans temps are a bit high for crusing down the road. The converter may not be lock while you are driving. Watch your tach , after it goes into 3rd you should see about a 300 rpm drop as the converter locks.

VBs dont have seals and orings that are normally replaceable.
 
#8 ·
The transmission shifts fine and the TC locks up. It just builds stupid heat and has the reverse issue. I must also note that when the TC locks in reverse its usually around 180* or hotter. And when I say he cleaned it out good I was refering to the transmission and internal lines, I don't know what he did with the VB because we had decided that I wasn't going to put one in at that time. Another thing that he mentioned was that there is a check ball/valve (not real sure of the technical) that could stick causing the transmission to bypass the fluid from the cooler. He told me its a warrenty part but he didn't replace it.
 
#9 ·
How did he clean it? Did he flush the lines and toss the old cooler? That is the proper way to do it. If you buy a trans and don't change the old cooler out, they can not warranty it, AFAIK.

Supposedly, someone said BTS told him that you can flush out the 6.0 cooler but I wouldn't do that if the trans was trashed. I would have just tossed the old one out.
 
#10 ·
He didnt do anything with the cooler. I took the transmission out myself and took to him. So, its still the original factory cooler. He didn't tell me to replace it until after i was having problems with it.

None of this still explains the TC locking in reverse though.
 
#13 ·
So you guys are saying the best way to flush is to just replace the cooler?

There is no way to REALLY clean it out good?
Flush lines and replace the cooler. If it is the 6.0 cooler, you can ask Brian what he thinks about cleaning it. Me personally, I wouldn't bother. Trans breaks, cooler gets dumped. No ands, buts or ifs.

Sure. Laser cut it apart, clean it and weld it back. :D
 
#14 ·
BTW, unless you are doing something extreme, the usual trans temp is 70 above ambient (give or take)
 
#16 ·
Im getting a new cooler so that will eliminate that factor. Could I run a True Cool Max as a standalone cooler? Bob from Dieselsite briefly said that I could but more clarification would be nice.

When i blew the cooler out i didn't pay attention to what came out since i was ready to go home.

The cooler bypass valve is what i was trying to say. He didn't replace it. However he told me that it was a inexpensive part and could be changed from the outside of the transmission. If that is the case does anyone have a picture or a good reference of its location?

My dad is thinking the same thing on the VB. It only does it around a certain temperature (180ish). I had plans of installing a VB this summer due to a lack of funds.


I've been told 100* over ambient, 70 is a little more reasonable.
 
#17 ·
Im getting a new cooler so that will eliminate that factor. Could I run a True Cool Max as a standalone cooler? Bob from Dieselsite briefly said that I could but more clarification would be nice.

When i blew the cooler out (1)i didn't pay attention to what came out since i was ready to go home.

The cooler bypass valve is what i was trying to say. He didn't replace it. However he told me that it was a inexpensive part and could be changed from the outside of the transmission. If that is the case does anyone have a picture or a good (2)reference of its location?

My dad is thinking the same thing on the VB. (3)It only does it around a certain temperature (180ish). I had plans of installing a VB this summer due to a lack of funds.


I've been told 100* over ambient, 70 is a little more reasonable.
(1)When in doubt, throw it out. <-Used loosely. Being unsure of it's internal condition, there's assurance in replacing it.

(2)IIRC it's at the 2 to 3 o'clock position, looking from the bell housing. ...IIRC.

(3)As for the valve body, are you replacing it with an upgraded unit, or stock unit? If you're going stock, consider a 'rebuild kit' for it. Depending on the quality of kit you find, they replace parts up to and somtimes including the accumulators.
 
#18 ·
1. Alright, she is good as gone as soon i get a replacement. But once again, True cool max, standalone?

2. So drivers side, up high? Any part numbers possibly?

3. I'm gonna go with a upgraded unit, I'm done playing around....LOL
 
#19 ·
I've heard of the True cool max, but that's it, sorry.

Up high-ish, closer to the 2 o'clock postition, IIRC. Somebody will chime in with a p/n, I'm sure... Mark K...?

Any ideas who you're going with for a VB?
 
#23 ·
Thanks. Your help is greatly appreciated.

BTS VB and you can run a tru cool as a stand alone cooler, I was running a "el-cheepo" that came on the truck and the trans temps never went over 200.

I will prolly run another "el-cheepo" till I can afford a 6.0 cooler or tru cool
If they are all very similar (which i dont see how much the can differ) I'll run the cheapest of the big brand names. And good to hear that I can run a True cool. It's on my birthday list LOL
 
#35 ·
2C3Z 7H322 BA
 
#38 ·
Sorry to hear that. At least you aren't in Franko's league YET.
 
#43 ·
Not to rub it in but this is exactly the sort of reason I want to buy as good as I can. I don't want to do it again. You are going to need a rebuild. Seeing how "good" he was, hopefully he will rebuild it for free till you can get better.
 
#44 ·
Oh I know, I wish I either would have bought a manual or a bts. A manual set would have been similar in price to what I did here. But the good thing is that he is going to stand behind it and rebuild it for me. Only thing is that he wants my whole truck this time instead of my transmission so he can pull it out and flush everything. But, I have to pay him to do that because I pulled it last time and he doesn't cover that part of it
 
#49 ·
Assuming he fixes it right, you're lucky. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a new cooler. Preferably the 6.0 one. Yes, it costs more that trying to flush your cooler but what is your time and headache worth?
 
#45 ·
been there done that and even got a refund from the prick after i threatened to sue his ass for ripping me off. My supposedly "built" transmission had stock everything inside and a pos blue precision converter, not to be confused with PI... two different companies. paid 3500 and ended up getting 1700 back, i ended up just eating the rest.
 
#47 ·
yep it was light blue and a giant POS. I paid 3500 custom "bullet proof" trans and after i had my current tranny guy tear into it and tell me it was an off the shelf stock rebuild, i blew up on the guy. I told him i was going to sue him for the full amount plus labor charges or he could weasel out of hit and pay me the difference of the stock build from what i was charged. needless to say he picked door number 2. within 2 weeks i had a check and was not allowed back on his property LOL
 
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