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Getting on my last nerve

13K views 157 replies 14 participants last post by  speeddemon31176 
#1 ·
I replaced the bad valve cover gasket and the uvch, with absolutley no change to the way it runs, it still sounds like ####:mad::mad:
So this evening i borrow my buddys scanner and i run another buzz test it says it passed the test, but i noticed almost all cylinders sound a little bit different, the 7th one to buzz sounds the worst, but it passes the test:blah:

So i run a cylinder contribution test, it seems to run better sometimes in the test then normalWTF? ok well after listening for 4 minutes to it make it miss worse or run better it passes that test too:mad: ok im furious now it has a test that it does running that gives data, but i dont know that all the numbers and abbreviations mean only thing i could figure out about that test was my engine speed varies from 580-670 rpm,

Last thing i ran the injector test more than once, the first time it said cylinder 1-3-7 had an open circuit. then all the other times it said pass, wth is going on here
 
#2 ·
First off you need to stop making a new thread every time you work on it. We can't follow along with what all you have done so far since it would take forever to go to each thread and read through it. Repost this info in the original thread and that will help us figure it out. What brand parts did you replace the vc gasket and uvch with? If they weren't ford or international parts then this could still be your issue. What brand cps is in it as well? What color is the cps? When you say that the 7th injector sounds the worst do you mean that the other injectors sound differently from eachother as well? It sounds like you may have a weak solenoid or two that once they get warm they aren't performing up to snuff.
 
#3 ·
Were is the Cps? most injectors sound different from each other yes, no matter hot or cold it runs like crap, the valve cover kit was doorman, runs the same as before i replaced the valve cover gasket and the UVCH
 
#5 ·
The cps is to the pass side of the crank pulley below the water pump. If you didn't know where it is located then you haven't changed it. Go buy a new one from ford or international and put it in. You need a 10mm 6pt socket, ratchet, and short extension, as well as a small prybar or long shaft flat screwdriver. That is probably your whole problem.
 
#6 ·
Can't remember what you have done in the past, but did you run the engine with the valvecovers off and check the amount of oil coming out of the injector spouts? They should be fairly even. Have you done resistance checks on the injector solenoids? If they check out OK there amd if any of the injectors is spitting less oil than the others (like maybe #7), remove the solenoid and check for a loose poppet screw underneath the solenoid. Cheers!
 
#7 ·
Will crank it one day with both valve covers off to see what everything looks like, cant tomarrow evening i got to work, i think im off thursday tho, so maybe thursday evening or friday evening cant saturday got plans with the girl then,

How much does a crank sensor cost? i looked at the one, it looks like its kida black, but its pretty dirty
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
If PDP has it in stock get the black one. That is the more sought after cps. The grey ones are the ones the dealer does the recall with and they have been known to cause phantom codes, as well as some trucks not running well with it. You also need to do what Pat said about pulling the covers and watching the oil spouts. It could be as simple as a screw.
 
#13 ·
Does it just miss at idle or will it miss driving down the road under moderate throttle? Does it miss under full throttle?
 
#14 ·
I has a miss and shake at idle, sometimes driving it runs perfect sometimes it has no power at all aometimes it has plenty, if i rev it in nuetral it runs pretty decent till about 2200 rpm and it starts missing real bad and smoking white/blue then after it passes 2800-3000 it clears the smoke and missing up and runs great to the govenor
 
#15 ·
My buddy had a similar problem on a 2000, no white or blue smoke, though. His ended up being his hpop, hope you can figure your problem out soon, I know how it is not being able to drive your own truck xD.
 
#17 ·
I bought this one today- Store Locator | NAPA Online
is it a good one?
NO it isn't a good one. The only good ones to get are from FORD OR INTERNATIONAL. Take it back and get a GOOD one. You should have just ordered the one I agreed with the last time you asked. I mentioned several post back that the only place to get one was ford or international, but if you want to keep wasting money by all means go right ahead.
 
#19 ·
Use these. If you can't pin them out using these we have real problems.:eek::poke:
 

Attachments

#22 ·
You will have to subscribe to microsoft word to view those documents.
 
#21 ·
Horrible oil consumption is another problem i want to talk about also, im talking a gallon every couple days:eek: it never use to be this way until recently, it has a small leak from the EBPV seloinoid, but not enough to explain what im looseing, it also has a pretty bad fuel leak, which is probly causing me to get about 9MPG,

So any idea on my huge oil consumtion? its getting a little expensive:postwhore2:
 
#23 ·
It sounds like you need a engine overhaul.
 
#25 ·
To read the files I uploaded all you have to do is download Adobe Reader 9.0. It is a free download.
 
#26 ·
I will try that. When I tried to open them a window opened and said my
free trial to microsoft word had expired?:doh:
 
#27 ·
You probably already have adobe reader. Most computers come with it installed already. Right click on the file and scroll to "open with" then scroll to adobe reader. Left click. It will bring up a window that asks if you always want to do this. Check it and click ok. Tada your done.;)
 
#30 ·
Drain some fuel from the bowl into a glass jar and look at it. When my injector o-rings went at 175k (and it was sudden and right after an oil change) it used 8 quarts in 150 miles. The fuel was as black as used motor oil! Could not see the sun through it. The tank I was running on at the time was at 1/4, hence the heavy oil concentration.
 
#32 ·
Mine is not good on fuel, its horrible on fuel:mad:

I went and pulled the filter just now and shined a flash light in it and i could see lots of #### floating in my fuel, its very nasty and it has a slight blueish tint, any idea how much injector o-rings cost?
 
#34 ·
You also might want to clean the fpr screen. It is inside the fpr between the bowl and the fpr. You have to take the two bolts out that hold the fpr on and lean it away from the bowl and clean it good with q-tips or the like. I took mine out and cleaned it with carb cleaner, a brass brush, and compressed air. Be careful not to lose the check ball that is in there.
 
#36 ·
I cleaned it when i first got the truck, but i will do it again sometime

Injector o-rings are 30 bucks on rock-auto for doorman comes with copper washer and some piston ring looking things,

i tryed the CPS from napa today it was black looked just like the one on my truck, run exactly the same, im gonna see if they will take it back, if not i guess im screwed

Im about tired of throwing money and parts at this thing

Anyone got a known good used IDM?
 
#37 ·
No they won't take back a used electronic part so you are out that money. Get motorcraft or international o-rings and not dorman. Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines. Or you can just keep doing things the hard way and never get it fixed.
 
#39 ·
your best bet is find someone from here in your area that you could meet up with and try their idm in your truck before you spend the money
 
#40 ·
Im pretty tired of this thing, its too expensive for me, between the 8mpg and a gallon of oil every 3 days i cant afford it, i think im going to sell it and get another idi to drive, i had my taset of psd's and i dont like them so far, i love the way it sounds and the power it has when its right but good god i just cant afford this POS
 
#52 ·
OK, time for some tough love...:poke: Stop the cryin and start working on it. You are in no different of a place than many of us are with these things. Honestly, you have some basic maintenance issues going on and you need the confidence to deal with them. IDI or not, all of these things cost money.

Look at it this way; you'll get beat up trying to sell a rig that runs like crap. The money that you'll lose should be put into this one.

Here's what Id do;

-Run a thorough AE datalog
-Pull the VCs and watch injectors run (focus on those with minimal oil spouting)
-Run a compression test (not required, but helpful and you have the VCs off)
-Pull the Fuel bowl/regulator and completely clean (leave heater disconnected if suspect)
-While bowl is out, replace the IPR orings
-Pull the injectors; find a local shop and have them run on a bench (send to a vendor if close; the box is heavy), repair any inj and replace the orings
-Test/replace any bad GPs
-Button up and reevaluate

Unless anything major is going on with the injs, you'll have about $2-300 in it at this point.

Ya gotta start working on it-- if you don't want to work on it, ya better sell it and you have no business owning an old PSD. Expect no more than $2500 or so.

I'm out-- unless you're ready to work on it seriously, its time for this thread to come to an end...
 
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