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HD oil cooler

7K views 57 replies 20 participants last post by  caere 
#1 ·
#7 ·
:whs:
OEM works great. Get rid of the gold crap and install a coolant filter, no more clogging:cool:
 
#11 ·
The cooler refered to looks similar to one in a previous thread. The consensus is yes it is less likely to plug. It is also less likely to transfer the amount of heat out of the oil. While it solves the plugging issue that the stock oil cooler faces it does this by not effectively removing the heat... The oil cooler needs to either have more surface area to remove the heat and a higher flow or the fluid has to slow down to dissipate the heat.... Or have have smaller passages that are more restrictive. I would say as a guess that cooler would have to be 2x the current size to be truly effective. I would stick with the stock cooler and get a coolant filter.
 
#22 ·
I agree, I'm switching to CAT ELC when I do my headgaskets this spring.
 
#26 ·
Drain everything, fill with plain water, run till it circulates, drain everything, fill with plain water, run till it circulates, lather, rinse, repeat....then drain it again and put in what you want.
 
#32 ·
I pulled lower radiator hose and removed drain plug on driver side back of engine block, careful, the plug in mine was very stubborn, so be patient as it is only removed with a hex bit. After all drained, I removed thermostat to allow for immediate circulation of tap water for the first 3 times(so fill-run for at leats 10 min-drain completely again, repeat 3 times). I then reinstalled the t-stat and filled with 1 gal of Restore(bought at same place I got ELC) cooling system cleanse/flush agent and topped off with tap water again. Drive truck until its to normal temp, then drive it for another 90 minutes or so. Cool and then drain and remove t-stat again. Fush system with tap water again until it runs clear/clean and free of suds(mine took about 4 hours of doing this til I was sastified). After all that then drain and refill system with distilled water only for a few flushes to ensure you remove all tap water. Distilled water must be used from this point on. Then reintsall (or replace if needed) t-stat and fill system with new coolant. The cooling system should take about 7 gals. Most places that carry ELC have stopped carrying concentrate and only carry the premixed, both are the same. If you use the premix coolant, like me, then I would say to run it for a few thousand miles and then drain and refill with same coolant because I was advised that when you initially pour in the premixed coolant, chances are there is still enough distilled water left in from your flushes that it may be too diluted, which is why most who do this try to find the concentrate and pour 3 1/2 gals in and top off with distilled water.
On a side note.....this is very messy:( I wound up cutting a 55 gal plastic drum into two drain pans, the diameter of my DIY pans was perfect and cought 95% of what poured out, the plug in the back of block drains right onto front u-joint of front drive shaft and splashes all over:doh:
 
#34 ·
There is a drain in the side of the block on the drivers side as well...

You all do know that there are stop leak pellets that are put in the cooling system at the factory. The brown stuff is from them.

TSB 09-8-5 DIESEL COOLANT MAINTENANCE - SERVICE TIPS

Publication Date: April 14, 2009

FORD: 2003-2005 Excursion
2003-2008 E-350, E-450, E-550, F-Super Duty


ISSUE:
This TSB is to provide additional information to supplement the Workshop Manual (WSM) and Owner Guide information on the importance of cooling system maintenance for diesel engine equipped vehicles. Some customers, using their trucks under special operating conditions, indicate that operating with insufficient coolant strength (antifreeze or anticorrosion) can result in significant engine damage. Insufficient coolant strength can result when:

Cooling system pressure and coolant is lost.
The coolant level is topped off using the incorrect coolant.
The coolant is mixed with hard water.
Coolant is mixed at the incorrect concentration.
Vehicles are operated under the special operating conditions as defined in the maintenance schedule (heavy commercial use that results in frequent or extensive idling, frequent low speed/rush hour traffic use; vehicles operated under special conditions such as: sustained high speed driving at maximum GVWR load, towing a trailer, using a slide in camper (F-Super Duty) or car top carrier (E-Series).
Proper cooling system maintenance is critical for maximum engine performance and efficiency on today's high technology diesel engines. It is essential that; the proper coolant is used, the coolant level is checked routinely, the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion property) is tested frequently and that the cooling system is flushed (with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner) at the proper intervals.

ACTION:
Check and maintain the coolant strength (antifreeze and anticorrosion) and flush the cooling system using the recommended service procedures and frequencies detailed below.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Inspect the coolant color as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. If the coolant is not a clear or pale yellow color and has not had any coolant additive added, flush the cooling system with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with a 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Premium Gold Coolant and distilled water. No further action is required at this time. If the coolant is clear or pale yellow, proceed to Step 2.
Recommend measure coolant antifreeze strength. Measure the antifreeze strength following the recommended frequencies detailed in the chart below. A 50/50 mix provides protection to -34 °F (-36 °C), for operation below this level, refer to the applicable Owner Guide and WSM for specifications. Proceed to Step 3.
Recommend checking coolant anticorrosion strength. Check the anticorrosion strength (nitrite level) of the coolant using the Rotunda 3-Way HD Antifreeze Test Strip Kit part number 328-00001 , 1-800-Rotunda (768-8632) option 2 or equivalent. Perform coolant anticorrosion strength at the frequencies recommended. (Figure 1)
NOTE: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE AS INDICATED CAN RESULT IN INACCURATE TEST RESULTS.



Instructions for coolant testing:
Start with clean, dry hands and utensils.
NOTE: DO NOT COLLECT FROM THE COOLANT RECOVERY OR OVERFLOW SYSTEM. COOLANT MUST BE BETWEEN 50 °F AND 130 °F (10 °C 54 °C) WHEN TESTED. ROOM TEMPERATURE IS PREFERRED.



Collect coolant sample from the radiator or petcock.
Remove one strip from the bottle. Do not touch the pads on the end of the strip. Discard strip if nitrite test pad has turned brown.
Dip strip in coolant sample for one second, remove, and shake strip briskly to remove excess liquid.
NOTE: FOR BEST RESULTS FOLLOW TEST TIMES CAREFULLY. USE A STOPWATCH OR CLOCK WITH A SWEEP SECOND HAND.



Wait 45 seconds but no longer than 75 seconds after dipping strip to compare and record results in the following order:
Compare FREEZEPOINT (end pad) to color chart on bottle and record result.
Compare NITRITE (end pad closest to handle) test to color chart on bottle.
The middle pad is for MOLYBDATE which is not a performance measurement used in determining maintenance requirements for these applications.
It is okay to estimate a value between color blocks, but if uncertain about the color match, pick the lower numbered block, for example if nitrite color is between F and E, use column E.
Coolant test results:
If the nitrite level exceeds 800 parts per million (PPM), no action is required, anticorrosion strength meets specification.
If the nitrite level is between 300 PPM and 800 PPM, anticorrosion strength is low. Add 32 fluid ounces of Motorcraft® Diesel Cooling System Additive.
If nitrite level is less than 300 PPM, anticorrosion strength is very low and cannot be restored refer to Step 6.
Flush the cooling system with Motorcraft® Engine Cooling System Iron Cleaner and refill with 50/50 mix of Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water as stated in the WSM, Section 303-03. A 50/50 mix of the Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant with Bittering Agent and distilled water provides the proper cooling system protection and nitrite level for operating temperatures to -34 °F (-36 °C).
CAUTION: DO NOT ADD MOTORCRAFT® DIESEL COOLING SYSTEM ADDITIVE WHEN REFILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM AFTER A COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH WITH MOTORCRAFT® ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IRON CLEANER. THIS MAY LEAD TO POSSIBLE ENGINE DAMAGE DUE TO VERY HIGH NITRITE LEVEL CONCENTRATIONS.

Verify pressure relief cap integrity by using the WSM, Section 303-03.
Follow recommended coolant service intervals: Perform the updated flush and fill procedures under the special operating conditions and frequencies recommended in the chart below: (Figure 1)
How many of you are actually checking the nitrite and molybdate levels?
 
#35 ·
How many of you are actually checking the nitrite and molybdate levels?
I can't seem to find my chemistry set to do that, so I haven't done that yetLOL:poke:
I have been informed of that TSB, way back when the same local Ford tech told me to get rid of the gold stuff and I chose not to listen to him...instead I bought a bottle of that additive to have so I can check my coolant and add if needed, I'll be more than happy to give you that bottle for free if you would like. I've definitely been woken up by my experiences and like I said before, thats all I'm saying, it was my experience and what I've done to remedy the failures I've had. If the gold stuff is working for anybody else then by all means do not change a thing. We all need to remember that maintenance is the key to a long lasting powerstroke. :ford:
 
#38 ·
Man, I just wish there was a definitive answer about this coolant business. I've been told so many things by so many people that my head is spinning. I'm the type to flush every year or so. Does this mean I dont really need elc and I can just use an sca charged coolant as long as I test it (test strips) throughout the year? I'm currently running gold but its fresh from right after I bought the truck with 95k miles (currently have 120k) and it was studded and oil cooler replaced. I do have a coolant filter but if it's just going to become clogged prematurely from silicates in the gold stuff, then I'd rather flush and run something else. Any thoughts from folks who probably know more than me (most people here) ?

Not trying to hijack this thread at all, I just figured my discourse was relevant enough to be posted here.
 
#39 ·
Think about this. There is 225 parts per million in the coolant. Convert that into lbs per gallon. 0.001875574 Times say 7 gallons.

You will have .0131285 lbs of silicates floating in the coolant. Let me know when that clogs something up.
 
#40 ·
I get the picture :doh:. Well just enough so that I have more questions. So I take it that means you run the gold stuff and have no issues? I personally haven't had any yet. I'm just trying to prevent money being wasted from failures that could easily be prevented. Since you build trucks that have much more power than mine ever will, do you mind if I ask what they run in their coolant systems? I think this debate is interesting and I simply like to hear all sides of the spectrum. Does the debate still exist among guys running trucks with 3 and 4 times the stock power ratings or do they just flush it so often it doesn't matter? I've been told only certain coolants "work" with the metals and seals in these trucks but I'm beginning to wonder if those claims are mostly unfounded.
 
#44 ·
Right now there is some water from the city sprinklers. Some mix with anything green yellow whatever 50/50 premix I picked up from a gas station that was close enough after the city water top off. I have added some gold back in via some zerex and some ford. And some hose water from the shop on a few occasions.

I did just put a thermostat in my brother's truck yesterday after suspicion that it wasn't extending down far enough and covering the front cover bypass hole. It was topped off with 2 gallons of gold. And 2 gallons of shop water.
 
#45 ·
I just run the Evans NPG+ in a no pressure system and don't worry about it anymore.
 
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