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DIY Regulated return shopping list!

39K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  tree trimmer 
#1 ·
Ive been reading alot about the RRs people are doing on here. Someone should start a thread with a shopping list on what they use, how they use, and where they got it. Ive noticed a few different ways of doing it. Just curious to see what the differences could be.
 
#6 ·
Sweet! I've talked tarm and he gave me a list of what all but that post helps me even further. Just gotta put it on paper and start picking up some parts. Gonna be running dual superduty pumps for my system.
 
#5 ·
There are so many different ways to do it that making a shopping list won't work for everybody.
 
#7 ·
Tarm and Marty Have it down to the T.

Tarm Helped me with my whole fuel system. I used 2 sd pumps on 320cc injectors. Needle on fuel gauge never moved even wot.
 
#14 ·
Do you have a pic of the dual pumps and bracket. This is the way im thinking of building mine and just havnt seen any pics of them. And how did you wire both pumps.
 
#8 ·
Like Marty says there is no way you could lay out every part to use. I mean you could but then that would take away one of the biggest advantages of the DIY that is configurability and customization. Or it would take a stupid amount of time and people would still change something.

The one primary area to think about is how the filter head and pumps lay out. Now do a search and see the countless ways you can lay those out.

On the one I just finished on my X I went to the outside of the frame rail because of using a DAHL and used nothing but striaght fittings. But the X has a ton of rail space as it has a rear not side tank. Then what happens when you use different pump/s, filter heads etc. You could need 90 degree fittings. You could need straight or 180s. You may need multiple Ys or only one or none.


Then go up to the engine. I personally think the best way is in the rear and out the front. But even there you have either the 1/8 NPT fitting that stock uses or you can be using the much larger inspection port that allows for DI fittings that gives you a full -6 an fitting.


There are a few things that are IMO universal: such as do not use sharp angle fittings use the push-lok hose end angled fittings as they are smooth curves. For each device use a ORB to male JIC adapter fitting unless its NPT on the device.

You should always be using a adapter fitting between each device ( pump, filter head, etc) and the hose end fitting. This way you can always remove any part or hose section easily and it makes mounting and setup much easier. There is also the issue of you will not be able to find hose end that will fit every situation. SO each section of hose will have a push-lok to female JIC fitting. Each device will have whatever threading it has to a male jic fitting. JIC ends go together.


What I tell people is first figure out what device parts you want to use and write down all the specs on them or purchase them. Then look under your truck to get an idea of what kind of space you are dealing with. You will need more than you think. Then draw it all out on paper. Graph(grid) paper is best so you can actually use size ratio reference.

Then all you are left with is figuring out fittings.


It is not hard but just take a bit of planning and time. You can always go get dif fitting from the hydrualic store and return ones you end up not using.
 
#9 ·
I've got a system that works on every SD truck now... no if ands or buts about it.

Also works with every single pump setup. Now if you want to do duals... there's the wrench which will be determined by your cab/bed setup.
 
#18 ·
So share the wealth of info!:D Id like to get all the motor stuff done for now, running my SD pump. Then prolly switch to a Air Dog down the road, with a sump.
 
#10 ·
that is the part I am speaking of. I could do a system no issue if I got to pick the parts. But many people want to use some filter base they already have or different variations of duals. Hell Marty reading your posts is what got me looking and working out these systems. I learned a ton from reading what you had done.

The Excursion is very unique. It has a center rear tank and is basically on a 137 WB single cab long bed frame. That leaves a ton of room infront of the rear axle for the mounting.
 
#11 ·
I used Marty and Tarm. Looked at what I wanted to do. I really like hard lines. Just looks better IMO. Some people like hoses, I like hard line. Pretty musch just looked at what I wanted the end product to look like and went to Home Depot and bought fittings. Went to O'Reilly's and bought brake line. Custom bent it all up. Used coat hangers to bend up patterns. Bent it all up, installed it all. Good to go.

There are so many ways to skin this cat it aint' even funny.
 
#12 ·
Hard lines do look nice when you take the time as you did and make it clean. You do have to be super careful about rubbing. The real draw back is time and making it correctly so it does not leak. Time is the other one. It takes much longer to do custom hardline runs.

But one thing for sure it looks GREAT!!!!!

You ended up using aluminum line IIRC right?

I am interested to see f there are any issue with that. I like that its easier to work with cheap does not rust. Just wonder about durbailty.

I really liked the way your system turned out.
 
#19 ·
No, steel brake lines. Look exactly like the steel lines that are on the truck stock. Yes, you do have to be careful about routing where there is no rubbing. That's the big reason for mocking it up with a coat hanger. A trick I learned when I was doing custom duals a long time ago. And yes, you have to be careful on assembly to make your fittings good. I used simple compression fittings, it gave me a little bit of fudge factor over flare fitting the lines in.
 
#20 ·
The next time I have my CAC tubes, intake Y and turbo out, I will take pics. I kinda lazied out. Left the stock feed lines from the bowl to the motor. Returned from the front of the passenger side and the rear of the driver side. Next time I have my turbo out, I will also re route those and go in the back and out the front. And yes, in the very back ports that Tarm was talking about.
 
#17 ·
Also under the rules of DOT it is not a gravity feed fuel system and its diesel so you can have exit port below the fuel level of the tank.

the one thing I would recommend for all that do a sump is put a ball valve cut off between the sump and the first filter head. Simle and easy insurance. Also helpful for doing filter changes. ;) unless you like having a bucket filling up with diesel as you change your filters.
 
#21 ·
Cool I also woudl like to see some more pics of your handy work. If I was doing a system ona truck that was going to have show looks in the engine bay I may be hitting you up for the tips and tricks to doing the hardlines. Already like the hanger wire trick.

For running the hose and reg from the Y forward I think I have a very slick setup. Very clean. But there are so many different variables and honeslty I think its good that people that want to do this DIY shoudl put some time in working things out for themselves. IMO if you are fully spoon feed everything you learn little and how much pride can you really take in your work. Sure you may save some $$ from a prefab system by using what others took the time to work out but at least for me there is more too it all. Maybe I am wrong and being stupid about it I don't know. I like to learn and understand how things work and put personal touches on things. Fully functional but maybe a bit different is cool to me.
 
#25 ·
I should have siad to connect them to the regulator. Of coarse it would probably help if I have decided on one. Im just trying to get everything figure out before I start getting stuff.
 
#26 ·
You must use a ORB fitting to connect to the regulator. They are male -6 ORB to male . Then that woudl connect to the steel line nut. You would need to figure out what if any angle you need on that fitting. That will be dictated by where and how you mount the reg and route the steel line.
 
#27 ·
Here is a perfect example of what NOT TO DO.............



First off, it's not even pushloc. It was only fuel hose. Secondly it's not pushed on all the way. Lastly it was clamped.
 
#28 ·
That looks like sh!t

Can't sleep?
 
#29 ·
I have seen a few fuel system they have posted in the various diesel magazines. I can not believe how many did not have the push lock fittings fully seated. I think I found 3-4 in the various articles and pictures
 
#30 ·
I was at the shop doing that HPOP fix that I didn't really have any business doing. So I decided to do a few things on Todd's truck... tanks are empy :evil

Headed over there later to get the fuel system plumbed in.
 
#32 ·
You could mont your filter bases and pump on the outside of the drivers side frame rail. Id say that's what the majority of people have done with there fuel system builds..
 
#35 ·
I'd like to see that type of setup. I have a piece of 5" long 2x4 steel tubing that I'm using as a "standoff" for my oil bypass filter so that my parking brake line can pass through. Is that what people are using or is there a better, cleaner option? That 5" hunk of 2x4 cost me $5.

How about loosing your spare tire location and install a 45 gal Excursion tank that already comes with integrated skid plate. Then you have all the rail you will ever need.
I don't want to have to carry my spare in the bed. When I go camping/roadtrip my bed is full, and I refuse to go without a spare.
 
#33 ·
How about loosing your spare tire location and install a 45 gal Excursion tank that already comes with integrated skid plate. Then you have all the rail you will ever need.
 
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