easy as pie... I bought a pipe flange, nipple, and bull cap. Then I torched it down to the outer diameter of the seal.... the only measurements you need are the diameters of the axle and seal and the length of the axle
Yeah, i have seen those, but i have the tools and ability to make the exact tool. It will be a cool CNC project. Maybe if i can make a few i can loan them to people that need one.
Are you talking about the seal that goes on the stub axle in the back of the knuckle? If so you don't need a tool. Remove old seal, take the new seal slip it over the axle. Take your hub and place it on the floor so that the lug studs are facing the floor. Slip the stub axle into back of the unit bearing and gently lift and drop the axle into the hub. With 2 or 3 tries the seal will pressed on without damage.
my local ford will loan me the tool for a $35 depost i get back when i return the tool. thats cuz its not a tool they normally use its just sitting on the shelf. worth a try to ask them.
the one my ford has is steel, and you beat it with a hammer. it sets that seal on the axel shaft and it also sets the depth when you put the axel back in. but even the plastic one will get him the measurements he wants. even if you get the seal on without the tool, you still need the tool to set the depth. it is what centers the u-joint in line with the ball joints, so when you turn everything is in line.
the one my ford has is steel, and you beat it with a hammer. it sets that seal on the axel shaft and it also sets the depth when you put the axel back in. but even the plastic one will get him the measurements he wants. even if you get the seal on without the tool, you still need the tool to set the depth. it is what centers the u-joint in line with the ball joints, so when you turn everything is in line.
I made the iron pipe version , drove a seal on . When I pit the spindle back in I seated it, to what i thought was the same deapth as the original . I then bolted the hub back...when I went into 4wd it sounded bad.
So I assume it was in too far or not far enough.
i drove my seal on the axle, then pushed the axle and seal into knuckle. I then slid the hub on and made sure my snap ring and washers where in place. I then cross tightened my hub bolts to the correct torque. Its seats you axle to the right depth
using the hub to push on the seal/axel will cause the seal to have accelerated wear. think how hard that seal is to push in, and the fact that the seal is two pieces. using the hub as a driver, your only pushing on the center, which offsets the two halves when your done. and your prolly off on the ball joint/u-joint alignment, which as stated, that little timken bearing is gonna roast pretty quick. when it goes, it will wear the axel shaft right there, making the axel have quite a bit of slop in the hub, and will now accelerate the wear on the lockout on the otherside of the hub, cuz the shaft is now hanging in the hub, rather than centered. so now to fix it, your replacing a hub, a new seal, axel shaft, and lock out, cuz you didnt get the tool. been there done that. kicked my own a$$. learned that was a expensive error. but to each his own, thats just my opinion.
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