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getting it back together

9K views 151 replies 24 participants last post by  UNBROKEN 
#1 ·
okay so rcd got the heads off and both are totaly junked. so new heads on in order and they are gonna get fireringed and harded valve seats and beehive springs..... anybody think that is good enough for my 600 ish hp with the water meth 30 meth 70 water?
getting sick of pulling it apart i wanna know if thats good enough to make it hold... thanks:ford:
 
#2 ·
Sounds pretty good. I would stay away from doing the firering crap but that's just me.
 
#4 ·
?? whys that? all the big big pullers have that done... what are other options? i cant have it pukeing all the time and warping heads. i already have to buy two new ones since they are totaly f ed. they told me they are the worst heads they have ever seen
 
#6 ·
like said above arp studs,have the heads machined regardless if there new or not.factory gaskets and arp studs which are now torqued to only 215 with the new lube iirc and call it a day
 
#7 ·
well thats what it got the first time and my heads are blown and junked. somethings gotta be done because i cant keep pulling it apart. its gotta go together and stay together. atleast for a good while
 
#8 ·
can i ask why not firering? other then personal preferance... to me it makes sense to firering. idk let me know
 
#10 ·
Totally up to you on this one but most 6.0 motors that have been fireringed dont holdup either due to crappy machine work, bad install, or whatever reason. But i know of quite a few motors running alot more hp than you and they live just fine on stock headgaskets and arp studs.

Might have to look elsewhere why you are blowing headgaskets.....high backpressure, extreme heat, high egts for extended periods, bad oil cooler, etc.....
 
#11 ·
210 is right :doh:,if you do it right the first time you shouldnt have issues with stock gaskets.like stated above id look elsewhere for the problem.oil cooler,back pressure,maybe the block is excessively pitted or warped.
 
#12 ·
so if i get brand new heads compleatly flat and make sure its done right u guys think its good to go? even with that water meth? as u can tell im nervous to put it back together without changeing something since it was "good to go" the first time with the head studs.
ik everybody is runing just the studs but im real nervous just because it isnt cheap to get a cab pulled. id rather spend that couple grand right now to upgrade u know...
i can defititly see the oil cooler being a huge problem and createing back preasure... so u think thats a good thing to upgrad then and forget the firering? bp diesel? or that other one i cant remeber stats with a L
 
#13 ·
If I were you and wanting big power and it staying together I would ask some of the people that are running big power what they did.
 
#14 ·
the rings some guys use in fire ring heads are made of stronger material than what the block and heads are made of, so the rings were grooves in the block. flat, stock gaskets, arp's torqued to 225 with the new lube. who tunes your truck
 
#15 ·
so is that a no to firerings? River city does. hes doing all the work. he thought the fireringing would be the next step...idk??????????
 
#19 ·
so new heads the valves done springs and oil cooler and stock gasget and throw em on and be done? is that the conclusion? i think i mite trust u guys on this but man im gonna be pissed if they blow!!!! i dont beat the snot outa it either just a daily driver
 
#21 ·
at time i consider replaceing it almost back to stock sometimes. it sounds dumb but ive tought of it
 
#22 ·
ik u guys dont know the whole story but why did it blow the first time?? is the oil cooler the problem if its pluged?
 
#23 ·
Maybe it was the oil cooler, maybe your head stud job wasn't done right the first time, maybe your tunes suck, maybe your turbo makes way too much backpressure in your motor which popped the gaskets, there are lots of factors that could be at play here.....
 
#24 ·
well i dont think its the turbo just because so many guys run it without probs but i think the oil cooler is a issue and im gonna get a bp kit and do the studs no firering
 
#27 ·
I just had my head gaskets done here is a list with prices:

2 remanned heads (1100 shipped from Cylinder Head Intl.)
ARP head studs (389+25 for over night shipping)
Victor Reinz Gaskets (110 shipped from Northern) Rock Auto has them cheaper
Newer HPOP with IPR and screen (130 shipped)
Oil Cooler Rebuild kit (259 shipped Ebay)
Victor Reinz intake and exhaust manifold gaskets (60 from Northern)
new stand pipes and dummy plugs (from Ford, supplied in the labor price)
new water pump and thermostat (from ford, supplied int he labor price)
LABOR 2000

total parts and labor, $4013.00
I feel I got a good deal and alot of work done for the price.
 
#28 ·
injectors are mostly the same if not bigger. only differance would be im runin meth. very dulited tho...
 
#31 ·
How are you measuring your methanol?

What washer fluid are you running?

I don't think you have any idea what % meth you are running.

Also, your 305cc injectors and that turbo combo are leading to some EXTREAMLY high back pressure issues.
 
#33 ·
275ft lbs is the yield point of the stud if I remember what the ARP tech told me when they called to talk about the new lube. His words to me were "There are some people on the internet talking about going to 275ft lbs. Which would be bad."
 
#35 ·
Putting studs and/ or fire rings don't make it indestructable.
Having tuning that may drive great but not work correctly I.e. To much back pressure and high egts for extended intervals will cause the head gaskets to blow.
I say this simply because some people see to think a superman badge come with a set of headstuds and that they can abuse the truck once they are installed.
 
#36 ·
Torquing the ARP's to 275 with the new lube would be very bad:doh:

kinda along the lines of 305cc injectors and a single 66
 
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