hey guys new to the site is it possible to mount 6.4 heads on a 6.0? im sick of my 6.0 heads warping and cracking all the time. seems if u look at the truck wrong the heads warp... wondering wht the alternatives are. thanks
injectors wouldnt efect the heads???? i dont think. ik i would have to get rocker arms and some parts machened up to make it work but a 6.4 head is 10 pounds heaveyer and flows more air. i wish it would fit
I believe the engines and cylinder heads on the 6.0 that were built after January 2006 had updated designs like 20mm dowels instead of 18mm and 32mm cups instead of 28mm cups along with other slight modifications....this was all done in preparation for the 6.4 to do what Ford calls commonization of engines, kinda like the modular overhead cam engines....So if you have a 6.0 built after January 2006 then you already have a 6.4 design head to a certain extent. If you purchase a set of 6.0 cylinder heads from ford that was built after January 2006 the box actually says 6.0/6.4 hybrid....After the engine redesign which took place in January 2006 nothing is interchangable to the previous model years as far as blocks, heads, and valvetrain go. Easiest way to answer your question is if you have a 18mm dowel engine then no you can't swap over to the 20mm dowel engine design stuff.... Don't know if this answers your question or not...
I have been debating all of this recently. I dont see why they wouldnt interchange even with the early models with the stepped dowel pins. I have been wanting to lay a set of each side by side and compare.
What about the headbolts/studs being quite a bit larger on the 6.4 vs. the 6.0?
Both of the head designs more or less suck. I don't think you'd gain anything by putting a 6.4 head on realistically... The valve seats still crack, the heads still seem to warp!?
Like I said....the late model 6.0 heads are SIMILAR but not EXACTLY like a 6.4.....The late model 6.0 heads again have larger injector cups, larger locating dowels, different injector hold downs and redesigned rocker assembly....The 6.4 along with all those have an entirely different fuel system, M16 head bolts instead of M14 bolts, entirely different rocker assembly and no longer uses the rocker box assembly....so it's safe to say it's not a direct BOLT ON piece....however I'm sure somebody with a solid works program and entirely to much time on there hands can come up with a solution.....oke: :ford:
Like I said....the late model 6.0 heads are SIMILAR but not EXACTLY like a 6.4.....The late model 6.0 heads again have larger injector cups, larger locating dowels, different injector hold downs and redesigned rocker assembly....The 6.4 along with all those have an entirely different fuel system, M16 head bolts instead of M14 bolts, entirely different rocker assembly and no longer uses the rocker box assembly....so it's safe to say it's not a direct BOLT ON piece....however I'm sure somebody with a solid works program and entirely to much time on there hands can come up with a solution.....oke: :ford:
Or you just buy a new cylinder head from Ford and it comes with all of it. It's not that I have entirely too much time on my hands. It's that I have the tools and the capability to make what I want.
You did forget to pull up the spec where the exhaust valves in the 6.4L head are just a bit larger.
And none of you brought up that the cam bore in a 6.4L is higher than in a 6.0L which means you need to press the gear off of the 6.4L cam and swap on the 6.0L gear to get it in there.
if the 6.4 and 6.0 camshafts are interchangable, how much more difference in lift is there? and would it be worth while putting a 6.4 cam in a 6.0, or going with an aftermarket cam? also, would 6.0 pushrods and lifters need to be changed out when installing a 6.4 camshaft?
good info guys. ya idk i got a guy working on it. he thinks its possible. its a 07 so idk. just thought id pick ur brains alittle and see what u guys thought
ya i got all that. i got all the suporting mods for 600 ish hp maybe less but everything you can think of besides a oil cooler i have on the truck. the reason i ask this ? is because i had head studs and still blew the head.... so i was fire ringing the heads witch is no problem but i wanted to ask u guys first for other options.....
Who did your heads? Who put the studs and stuff in?
There is alot more than removing the cylinder heads and putting studs and gaskets on, and then hoping that it works, alot of reputable shops charge good money for a 6.0 head job to do it the right way, but once its done like it should be there are usually no problems after that. Sounds to me not like a cylinder head issue but a cylinder head install issue.
What difference does it make? It can't be that much different, and to go through all that trouble for hardly any noticeable change...oke:
Seems like if you were to go through the trouble, why not just put an elite diesel cam in? Even those from what I understand wont benefit a mostly stock truck anyways.
2004 Ford Truck F 250 4WD Super Duty V8-6.0L DSL Turbo VIN P
Vehicle Level Specifications Mechanical Specifications Engine Camshaft, Engine
Camshaft, Engine
Camshaft
Gear backlash 0.179-0.315 mm (0.007-0.012 inch)
Lobe lift
Intake 5.744 mm (0.2261 inch)
Exhaust 5.832 mm (0.2296 inch)
Allowable lobe lift loss 0.51 mm (0.02 inch)
Journal diameter 61.987-62.013 mm (2.440-2.441 inch)
Camshaft journal bearing inside diameter 62.05-62.14 mm (2.443-2.446 inch)
Camshaft journal-to-bearing clearance 0.037-0.153 mm (0.0015-0.0060 inch)
End play 0.051-0.211 mm (0.002-0.008 inch)
The only difference in the 6.4 camshaft is the lobe lift
Intake : .229 in / 5.82mm
Exhaust : .232 in / 5.91mm
So in theory a camshaft with the same duration and more lift would make a little more power depending on your specific application of course. The Elite Diesel Stage 1 Cam specs say it has .364 in lift Intake and Exhaust....That's a far cry more than the 6.4 Cam and prob. easier to notice once installed...lol
It's a real B*&$ch to do....:hehe::hehe: Some even suggest removing the engine to do this..:hehe:
I'm trying to be sarcastic if you can't tell !!! Haha
Really not worth the effort....If you're wondering about how much of a PITA it is to do, the LABOR alone at a shop calls for around 24 hrs to replace the Camshaft....But I'm sure the highly skilled DIY'ers can have this done in a weekend at home LOL
so u guys think its how they are getting put on? if i firering the 6.0 head will that be good to go? also is rcd capable of doing it the proper way? anything i should ask them or tell them to make sure it gets done rite?
I can't speak for or against anyones work as I don't have personal experience with them...
Headgasket failures even after EGR delete, oil cooler replacement, stud installation and so forth can be contributed to things like the cylinder head surface not being properly checked before reinstallation, heads not being checked for cracks before reinstallation, block surface not being checked before installation of cylinder heads, rocker box assemblies not being checked for cracks....the list can go on and on....
Fire ringing the heads is a good preventative measure but nothing's bullet proof...
josh does all of that and then some.....its the nature of a 6.0 head.especially when your making that kinda power.theres also people who think you can tow 10-15k on a full tilt race tune just because you have studs.i know that 90% of used heads out there basically need all new exhaust seats.99.9% all need milled flat.induction hardened seats,weak decks,insufficient chamber reinforcement....its a constant fight with 6.0 heads.
while you are at rcd ask josh to throw one of the Colt Cams in your truck from what I have heard they are sweet (I have one just don't have my truck so I can't tell you first hand)
we were gonna do a full twin turbo build and i called it off. i got what i got and thats enough. i got trouble with heads now so i stoped the build. i just wanna fix the blown head and get it home but uve caught my attn with this colt cam.... what would this gain and change on a truck with the parts i have in now???
theres quite a few differences.they have way thicker gussets and more of them to the center of the cylinders.pretty much beefed up all around.i was told they weigh in the neighborhood of 25lbs more than a 6.o head each.i haven't seen a cut-a-way yet bet im betting the deck is thicker too.
I'm putting seat inserts in the new head castings, stops the cracks from starting in the first place...been doing this forever with the high performance diesels.
Well for one the bolts are not only bigger but they are shorter and clamp directly on the head whereas the 6.0 has to clamp the rocker carrier and the head to the block.
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