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Installing Manual hubs

10K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  TARM 
#1 ·
I have searched and found nothing... I just bought the Warn front hubs. I know there is a vacuum line you have to block off, right? What else do I have to do? I still have to turn the switch on dash to engage the front driveshaft, correct?
 
#4 ·
Just find the line coming out of the vacuum pump going twards the front axle and plug it.
 
#5 ·
Block off the vacuum line and you're good to go. There's only two vacuum systems on the truck run off the pump, the HVAC and the hubs. The hub line runs towards the front of the truck, and the HVAC line runs towards the cab. I actually skipped the vacuum reservoir all together and just plugged the vacuum pump into the line that goes to the HVAC system.

In this pic, the line that loops down from the reservoir used to go to the vacuum pump, now it's just hanging there. Line that goes into the pump used to hook into the T that the red line goes into. Cab of the truck is on the left, front of the truck is right.

 
#6 ·
Do not leave the nipple on the knuckle open. The nipple will allow water dirt etc in. Plug it. You can also unscrew the nipple from the knuckle and replace with a screw in plug or bolt. Then cap off the other end.
 
#7 ·
I've heard of people replacing the nipple with a grease fitting. Wonder how that worked for them...
 
#8 ·
A bit of JB weld or solder in the grease fitting hole and I do not see why not. You could also use the grease fitting plug then if the threading is obviously the same.
 
#9 ·
Right, but they were using it to pump the hub with grease...
 
#10 ·
OK got it. That is best done thru the anti lock brake sensor port if it has one. If you look at where the vacuum port lines up with the unit bearing it does not have a route into the wheel bearing. If you look at a pulled apart unit bearing you can see the anti lock port goes directly into the wheel bearing. If it did not have one you could holding the unit bearing inverted drill a hole in that same sectional area on the unit bearing outer casing and use it to grease the bearing. By drilling from underneath metal shaving would not drop into the bearing. A magnet afterwords could be used as assurance of that. But ideally going thru the anti lock port is best. I believe the new bearings even for the non anti lock brake have the port but it has a plug in it.
 
#11 ·
very helpful information thanks TARM
 
#12 ·
Yep it sure beats changing out the Units ever 50-70K versus going 200-250K Not to mention I think the vacuum activation actually pulls and drys the grease out quicker. Those Units are also not sealed air or water tight. This is easily seen when you do grease then thru the sensor port. Grease comes out the seams. Actually good thing if you do grease them as it pushed out the bad like a greaseable joint. But if you do not grease them think what is happening when you drive thru water and mud and such. Wonder why they seem to go out so much faster. Hell if you are suppose to change your dif oil after any time the axles hubs are submerged this is no better other than its a bit better as its using grease.
 
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