Ya. Guess I'll try pulling the heat shields back. I just need to tighten them. Don't want to pull the turbos since bolting the uppipes tothe turbo with the elite wastegate is a battle, I can't pull my cab either. Thanks.
ha, no way possible. Some people say it is but I call BS. I had to pull my turbos to replace a seal that I had just installed 2 days earlier that didnt seal.
I lift the cab 4-5 inches gives you plenty of room to remove the turbo and fix the line if that is the problem.
What type of conditions are your experiencing that you think its that line?
Truck starts but shuts down right away. I am getting injector control pressure low, can't remember the code. I just did head gaskets, studs and wastegate cab on. Turbo drain line can be changed with turbos on, I did it.
Bled the system multiple times. If I shuttle truck down for a hour then try to start it will fire up but shut down 2 to 3 seconds later. It runs perfectly fine if you prime the furl system then start the truck.
Did you bleed the high pressure side on the coolers? Also did you bleed the LP side? And when I mean bleed I mean tons of fuel out of the LP side by cycling the key 10-15 times and each time it cycles push the schrader valve in on that fuel line on the cooler.
Once you do that 10-15 times then crack the other line on the cooler and cycle the key again 10 times and on that last cycle torque that banjo bolt down to 18 inch pounds. then fire the truck.
I had very similar issues and the same code, once i finally did that it ran, and it would run until i left it sit for a few days, then it wouldnt start again.
Yes I removed the lines, I have copper washers on mine thou. Local ford dealer likes them better as do I. I use them on the caterpillar equipment allthe time. The Viton seals you speak of are on the return lines of the hpfp right? Just making sure we are talking about the same parts.
Can't see a leak. There is alot of fuel from bleeding the system so it is hard to tell. Nothing drops on the ground. Have to try bleeding it on Monday, maybe that will fix it. I think a 75km drive wouldve got all the air out of the system thou.
i had help while bleeding the air out of my system...i turned the truck over as someone else hit the schrader valve on the fuel cooler to get the air out.
Alright I'll try some more bleeding then. I did replace all the lines. Trucks had about 25 bleed jobs in the last 2 days and 2 75km drives. I'm gonna wash the engine and see if I smell fuel after.
Am I reading this right,you used the copper washers? Ford gave you these? Or you reused them? If you reused them you are getting air sucked in, and why wouldn't you use the new design washers?I don't understand that,those copper washers have been a huge problem with air and hence why ford changed them out...I wish you luck is know that sucks but I truly think it's air too.
edit: i just re read your post,the viton seals are now everywhere,not just on the return lines,all those copper washers should have been replaced with the viton washers,i am more than shocked your ford dealer gave you those copper washers when it has been changed for a while now.
Well maybe I'll change the copper washers out as well. See if I can get some of the viton ones on Monday. Thanks. First I'll see if I can access the hpfp with the turbos on. Even just pulling the heat shields apart might help
After your test drive you shouldn't have air still. Sounds to me like its bleeding off pressure. Someone else had the same issue and it was the fitting or washer on the fuel pumps that was allowing pressure to bleed off. That's what i would check. I know it sucks but ill bet that's what it is. I know the copper seams like a better idea but they flat don't work right on these things. I work for a cat dealer too
ya, I am with you on bleeding off pressure too. Guess I'll try to change the seals out to the new ones and see how it goes. I'm hopin I can pull the heat shield apart enough.
That heat sheild comes off pretty easy, its just aluminum and can be bent out of shape to make removal easy and also bends back in shape for reinstallation.
I wish you the best of luck,I know it's hard to work in there with the cab on,hopefully you can get the shields off...if you do I think you'll be able to change out the seals..
Dustin that was me that had the exact same problem. Everyone told me to keep bleeding and rightfully sonas it's much easier and a great way to double check. mine was the Viton seals had failed. They were even new. I personally think you need to pull the turbos to properly torque the banjo bolts.
after looking at it today(the top of hpfp)i have no shields on my truck anymore.. i have to agree with above post,at first i thought if you could get the shields off,then you could probably switch out the viton seals ,but after looking today i really think it would be close to impossible,its just very tight in there and im not sure youll be able to loosen,swap and torque...i know its alot more work pulling the turbos but i think its your only option..i just dont see how it could be done,cant even get my hand down there so i dont know how you could change out the seals...good luck with whatever you try...
I'll pull the turbos if I need to but only if I need too. I first got to check the rail on the passenger side, I could be leaking there as I broke a rocker after installing the head studs and such. Thanks
You have to pull the turbos to access the top of the injection pump and properly torque the injection lines. It is time consuming but you can pull the turbos fairly easy.
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