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A couple cab light questions

2K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  jmbannow 
#1 ·
I am going to be adding cab/clearance lights to my 2000 f350 and I plan on using ford lights and wirning harness I was wondering if there is a template for drilling the holes in the cab and the best way to actually make the holes? Also out of curiosity how good are the recon cab lights in terms of quality and can I use a factory ford harness with the recon lights? Thanks for any help guys
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
Old thread.
I really like the look of roof running lights but make sure it is something you really want and take your time because you only get one shot at getting it right and as stated in previous posts leaks are a damaging hassle and undoing it will be costly if you change your mind and dont have autobody connections. I'm not trying to discourage you its just a semi-permanent mod. You cant just slap bondo in the holes and paint over it. To do it right the holes would need to be welded shut, and welding will warp the metal enough that it will need to be surfaced.

For what it is worth if you are going to go forward with this I would go to a windshield supply house and get the urethane they use to install a windshield to seal the wires into the holes you drill and ask them about any necessary priming and surface prep and make sure the wires are clean too. It's tougher than silicone and I don't know the chemistry behind it but the glass guys I have spoken to say the use of silicone sealants on bare metal somehow promotes corrosion if I understood correctly. It doesnt happen overnight or probably years for that matter, but I have spent time in the body business so I can tell you corrosion creeps under the surrounding paint of any kind of exposed edge over time. Acceleration factors include exposure to salt and sand or any medium that retains moisture that is in constant contact with a rusted surface or edge. It partly also depends on how long you plan on keeping the truck. I would also encourage you to get a roll of 2 inch masking tape to protect the surrounding surface while you lay out where you are going to put the holes(a piece of string pulled across the cab to two pre-determined reference marks on either side of the cab should make a fairly symmetrical line, and if it has minimal stretch put a thin nail in each end of a four foot scrap of 2x4, loop the string around the nails and tie it snug around one end, flex it back and forth gently so it sort of equalizes the tension on both sides. the other end will be the center, mark the string opposite the knot where it wraps around the outside of the nail this will be the center light location. most cabs are roughly 5 1/2 to 6 feet across so half of that is just under 3 feet that will be the mark representing the edge of the cab. Now put one light at center mark nail and lay out half of whats left spaced the way you want the lights spaced from the center of the cab to one side marking both strings as you go when you take it off the nails and open it up you have symmetrically spaced lights spanning across the cab. find a reference to locate the exact center of cab or stretch the string across the cab and keep adjusting it until the outer mark on each end of the string is the same distance to the cab edge on both sides, and bear in mind if it is off center an 8th inch it is going to appear to be off center a quarter inch because you lose an 8th on one side of center and gain an 8th on the other side of center for a total of 1/4 inch discrepency from center mark to each edge of the cab so close isnt good enough for this step also you may need to push the center of the string forward or backward to compensate for the curve of the windshield. and again flex the string back and forth a little or gently lift and let it snap back to the surface to make sure it isnt catching on the tape and make your marks on the tape) when you are happy with your marks remove the string and drill right through the tape. It will also protect the paint from metal drilling chips, dancing drill bits and dripping urethane. I would also keep a shop vac handy to pick up chips as you go and again as you peel back the tape you drilled through. reprotect surrounding paint with more tape before doing the sealant thing. I believe urethane cleans up with mineral spirits but the glass dealer would be able to give the best advice on that. Also protect any surfaces the vacumn hose will drag across. Sweeping or blowing the drilling chips away may just migrate tiny chips to another unprotected painted surface or other vehicle if done in a shared garage to get scratched or rust stained if it sits on a painted surface long enough to get wet. Hope this is helpful
 
#4 ·
#6 ·
thanks guys, I have the install basically figured out I just need to figure out weather or not to go factory ford or recon lights
 
#7 ·
here is my truck with the recon cab lights and projector head lights, everything smoked





i have a grill on order and then custom tube bumpers will be built. until then, no daytime pics till its completely blacked out

before the projectors
 
#10 ·
On a '97 you run the wiring down the passenger side and tie them into the plug for clearance lights that's behind the passenger side kick panel. The factory already had wiring in mind for every OBS truck even if they didn't have the lights on the roof.
 
#11 ·
Get the recon. I bought mine over a year ago (they are smoked) they look great and I have never had a problem with them!
 
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