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$1000 Powerstroke?

5K views 46 replies 17 participants last post by  mezz2006 
#1 ·
I've learned a lot of things from this site so far and know a few of you have dealt with things like this, so I would like your advice.

Here's the deal: its a 1995 F250 XLT 4wd, regular cab Powerstroke. The truck has 290k miles and the auto trans. The guy says it runs and he uses it for some odd jobs around his hobby farm. He bought the truck new used it for a few years, then sold it to his father who towed a camper with it for most of the miles. About 3 years ago his dad gave it back to him and he has hardly used it. It has the typical rust around the rear wheel wells and on the front fenders. The real bad stuff is in the front and rear springs. The front springs are resting on the bump stops and the rear has the rearmost spring mounts rusted out completely. The drivers side spring is sticking through the bed floor because of the missing hanger. It is also leaking oil from the rear main and tranny fluid from the cooler line seals.

I figure if I can get it for under $800 it should be worth the investment to fix the major issues and then sell it and make a few bucks. What do you guys all think?

Otherwise, if it isn't worth fixing, I figure I can part it out and scrap the rest and come out ahead as well.
 
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#3 ·
or tell me where to go and ill pick it up! id throw u a finders fee
 
#5 ·
I am going tomorrow after class to pick it up, as long as the rental place has a trailer. I was going to get a uhaul trailer, but they aren't rated heavy enough from what I understand (5300lbs trailer rating).
 
#7 ·
For a grand for the truck put it on a rollback so you don't do anymore damage to it unless you plan on stripping it.
 
#8 ·
If I had access to a rollback, I would use one, but I don't, and I am not going to hire someone with one to pick it up for me. That means it will be going on the $80 skidsteer/mini-excavator rental trailer. School puts a big damper on the funds, so I have to do this on the cheap.

I'm not too worried about driving it onto the trailer since the guy said he still drives the truck for some chores every once in a while.
 
#9 ·
not too worried about driving it onto the trailer since the guy said he still drives the truck for some chores every once in a while.
I got in mine and drove it 60 miles home slowly, with the idea it may stop at any time. I had someone drive me there and had a backup plan if it didn't make it all the way home. It saved me $90.
 
#11 ·
I would do that if it was only 60 miles away from me, but it is 120, so I think I will trailer it. Also his driving it only entails driving a maximum of 2 miles one way from his house.
 
#10 ·
got my truck for 1500 with the engine out of itused a tow dolly to get it home... we got cut off turnin into a parkinlot and the truck came off the front of the dolly lucky we had an enginehoist to put it back on
 
#15 ·
Would be nice, but since I don't plan on keeping the truck, I don't think it would be cost beneficial. I would love to put the ZF5 in my DD F350 Crew Cab though. If the trans is shot in that F250 though, I would pull the auto from my F350 to put in the F250 and then swap a ZF5 or ZF6 into the F350.
I'll cross that bridge when I get there though.
 
#17 ·
I say buy it. You cant go wrong for that price. You can definitly make money on it. I gave 1,800 bucks for my powerstroke, but it does'nt look exactly like it did when i first got it.
 
#18 ·
Well, I bought the truck and it is now sitting in my driveway. I paid $950 which I didn't think was a bad price. The truck runs and drives great. The transmission seems firmer than my DD. Now it is time to find parts!
 
#20 ·
Here are a few more pictures.
 

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#22 ·
I noticed tonight that the truck also has a coolant leak on the passenger side of the motor. Couldn't really tell where from though since it was getting dark.
 
#25 ·
That is quite possible. It was getting dark when I saw the puddle of coolant on the frame and crossmember. I will have to look and see when it is lighter out.

Just FYI, the rear main seal probably is NOT leaking.
Most likely is either a fuel leak in the lifter valley, or o-rings under the turbo and pedestal. I have yet to see a rear main seal leak on one, unless it was messed with. Save yourself the headhache, and make sure thats what it is first. Wash under the hood really good, using bleach white, and a water hose. Soak it good, rinse, soak rinse. Then go for a ride. Come home and see where its coming from. If thelifter valley has anything in it that shouldnt be, then you got a leak up there somewhere. It runs to the back, and down the rear of the block, then drips out, looking like a rear main leaking.
That previous owner told me it was the rear main seal, but after looking, I am pretty sure it is the pedestal o-rings as well. There is quite a bit of oil build up under and around it.
 
#24 ·
Just FYI, the rear main seal probably is NOT leaking.
Most likely is either a fuel leak in the lifter valley, or o-rings under the turbo and pedestal. I have yet to see a rear main seal leak on one, unless it was messed with. Save yourself the headhache, and make sure thats what it is first. Wash under the hood really good, using bleach white, and a water hose. Soak it good, rinse, soak rinse. Then go for a ride. Come home and see where its coming from. If thelifter valley has anything in it that shouldnt be, then you got a leak up there somewhere. It runs to the back, and down the rear of the block, then drips out, looking like a rear main leaking.
 
#28 ·
Those wheels will be going on my F350. I've been looking for them for a while too.
 
#29 ·
That coolant leak could be the oil cooler or the block heater leaking.
 
#31 ·
The passenger one has some damage to it, but both are very solid.
 
#33 ·
:doh: Somehow I thought he said driverside.
 
#34 ·
Thanks for all of the ideas guys. I will be working on it this weekend, so that gives me places to look at.
Also, I have new pedestal o-rings on the way. They should be in tomorrow/today :D. So I will be doing that this weekend.
Since it needs new front springs (currently it is riding on the bump stops) I stopped at the local salvage yard and they have a set off a 5.8L gasser. I know they will work/fit, but will they have the same load rating as the originals? The main reason I ask is because they are $80 for the pair.
 
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